Hoover Keymatic!!

[Frigidaire Deluxe]

I can’t believe this but I am now the owner of a Hoover 3224 Keymatic. I never thought I’d see one of these let alone own one.

It’s in fantastic shape for its age aside from wear and tear and a destroyed door seal. Sadly the drum is seized and a couple parts need replacing. But overall I am really happy with it.

It came from a house that was built in the 60s and all of the appliances in it were from that era.

If anyone knows where I can get spare parts please let me know. Here are some pictures.

 

[gizmo]

People all over the world are looking for a door seal. Good luck. I sent a door seal that had minor damage to someone in the UK to be used as a mould for a reproduction to be created, I don't remember how that worked out, but I think it proved too expensive.

Are you sure the drum is seized? The drum has a brake, cable operated so that when the door is open, the drum is braked. The brake mechanism is shown in your last photo, 2959. Also the drum only turns one way, that is normal.

Having said that, the drum on mine is sort of seized - it is stiff to turn even with the brake off. Mine is missing the main motor, it was gone when I found the machine.

I did fully restore one of these many years ago, I replaced the drum bearings but they are a weird bearing, thinner than usual and I couldn't find a match anywhere, tried many bearing specialists. I eventually used other bearings of the correct inner and outer diameters but a whisker thicker, I got it to work but it made reassembly really difficult. (I think I had to leave out a spacer or circlip from distant memory...) So if you can make the existing bearings work, try to do that. Of course it would be easier to find a match for the bearings today, my restoration was pre-internet.
Mine was the later one with the round dial, 3226. I also had a 3224 that I got later, actually got a good door boot and the drum assembly was good. That has its own story...
Sad story... I got rid of all my Keymatics when we moved from Melbourne to here, would have been late 1990s. I had the fully restored one, the working one I had converted its mechanicals and electrics to work from 12 Volts DC (we had a very basic solar power system, couldn't run a 240V version) and a few salvaged ones for spare parts. I gave the restored one to the Salvation Army store in Abbotsford to use as a window display, at the time they used to sell some donated washing machines.
The 12V one was a bit nuts, it used a car wiper motor for the tumble action and a golf buggy motor for the spin motor, a car heater fan motor to drive the pump, 12 volt solenoids to operate the water valves and two clockwork timers for the wash and spin timers, it was only semi automatic, not full auto. It did not use the keyplate mechanism or electric timer at all. No heater of course. It was rough as guts to look at but worked well for a couple of years. I tired of it, we had upgraded the solar power system so scrapped that machine and the spare parts machines. Soon after I discovered this website, and learned what a crime I had committed in scrapping them... One day they were unwanted, common enough, regularly found on hard rubbish collections, suddenly they were rare and appreciated...

After a few years of being Keymatic-less, I found one in hard rubbish. It had already had its motor taken, the wires cut. Other than that, it was in OK condition. That is the one I still have. I have never found a motor for it. I do have a good door seal but I'm keeping that.

 

[gizmo]

BTW sorry I forgot to say the obvious... Congratulations on your Keymatic. It looks great.

 

[vacerator]

I met a British family in Fort Lauderdale Florida in 1989. The dad worked for Hoover in Myrther Tydfil Wales. He won one of the free vacations they raffled.

 

[Frigidaire Deluxe]

Thanks for your reply Gizmo!

The sore seal is a bit of an issue. Surprisingly the half of it is still in good shape, just the part that was in contact with water got brittle and started cracking. I might try and flip it around and build up a my own section of rubber using old bike tubes and some rubber glue. Won’t look pretty but it’ll be on the top and will actually be functional!

Yes, sadly the drum is fully seized. Will not turn when powered on and with forcing it to turn with the brake disengaged. Have started a teardown on it which I’m super thankful that “The Laundry Centre” has a video of an explosion diagram of the 3226 (not the same but close enough). The pulsator spring was rusted and bent out of shape so it snapped and pulsator retainer block set screw had to be drilled out. Not sure how I’d find another set screw and spring! Probably have to make them. It’s a shame that I had to do this, but it is what it is!

That setup seems really cool! I would’ve loved to have seen that, must’ve been a lot of work to get it working.
Throwing them out was something no one would’ve thought about! Everyone threw everything out at a certain point. It is what it is. No one should really be getting upset by it. It’s just unfortunate that you don’t have a working one!

 

[gizmo]

I wonder if a car inner tube of the right diameter could be adapted to repair your door boot?
You'd have to slit it around the inner diameter and try to marry it in with glue or silicone.
The Keymatic boot is so different to other washing machine boots, it's more like an inner tube than another brand of washing machine boot.
It could be one of those "ugly but it works" solutions.

Pulsator spring - that is common, they all do it eventually. I spoke to a couple of Hoover specialist mechanics back in the day, they said they often just disconnected the pulsator and told the owner to wash on a non-pulsator cycle (Delicates? Permanent press?) to get the longer 8 minute wash. They would remove the spring and pulsator solenoid, so the pulsator is never driven, just spinning free all the time.
There is a chance I have a spare spring, but don't hold your breath.
The spring binds around two "hubs" (I have no idea of the correct term) to clutch them together or allow them to spin free - with wear in the pulsator bearings and in the hubs, the hubs can move apart, leaving a gap between... the spring gets into the gap and that is what destroys the spring.

If you want to go on a wild goose chase for parts, find a list of the old Hoover repairers, and see if any of them are still in business, even if doing other things.
Sears Morton in Blackburn were the most helpful to me in the 1990s, they really liked the machines and still used one for washing cleaning cloths. Last time I checked they no longer fix washing machines but do home security or similar. You would ask if they have any Keymatic parts, new or used, stashed out the back somewhere?
ART services in Camberwell were big in the day too, do they still exist?
I might have one of the old dealer lists, I will have a look in the next few days.

 

[Frigidaire Deluxe]

I wonder if a car inner tube of the right diameter could be adapted to repair your door boot?
You'd have to slit it around the inner diameter and try to marry it in with glue or silicone.
The Keymatic boot is so different to other washing machine boots, it's more like an inner tube than another brand of washing machine boot.
It could be one of those "ugly but it works" solutions.

Pulsator spring - that is common, they all do it eventually. I spoke to a couple of Hoover specialist mechanics back in the day, they said they often just disconnected the pulsator and told the owner to wash on a non-pulsator cycle (Delicates? Permanent press?) to get the longer 8 minute wash. They would remove the spring and pulsator solenoid, so the pulsator is never driven, just spinning free all the time.
There is a chance I have a spare spring, but don't hold your breath.
The spring binds around two "hubs" (I have no idea of the correct term) to clutch them together or allow them to spin free - with wear in the pulsator bearings and in the hubs, the hubs can move apart, leaving a gap between... the spring gets into the gap and that is what destroys the spring.

If you want to go on a wild goose chase for parts, find a list of the old Hoover repairers, and see if any of them are still in business, even if doing other things.
Sears Morton in Blackburn were the most helpful to me in the 1990s, they really liked the machines and still used one for washing cleaning cloths. Last time I checked they no longer fix washing machines but do home security or similar. You would ask if they have any Keymatic parts, new or used, stashed out the back somewhere?
ART services in Camberwell were big in the day too, do they still exist?
I might have one of the old dealer lists, I will have a look in the next few days.

Hmmm, possibly. I’ll look into that, car tubes would be a better fit for it, again. Not looking good but functional, best we can do at this point in time.


I heard about them doing that, I was really grateful to see mine still had that function. But yes, what you described about the bearings getting warn was exactly what had happened. It is a very interesting design. I was wondering how the pulsator worked when I was tearing it apart. Thanks for having a look though! Greatly appreciated. I’ll definitely give both of them a call and be very hopeful. It can be used in the meantime without the function, I’ll probably just try and make one myself if not possible.

I’m currently stuck at the moment. I managed to get the drum free but the bearings are the worst I’ve seen in a machine, drum bouncing all about. I’ve gone the machine down to where there are no pulleys on the back and the front of the outer drum is out. How do I remove the drum?

I appreciate your help so much Gizmo. Thank you.

 

[chestermikeuk]

Welcome Frigidaire to AW & Keymatic club, like many here you`ll have your work cut out but looks like you are ready to get stuck in . Had the support wire round the drum snapped ? the drum looked low in the original pics, if you tilt or move the machine backwards they do that dropping the heavyweight drum , snapping the thin wire (we used cyle brake cable to replace ) and bashing the motor against the terminal block.

If your boot is in good nic & fit on the inner tub and front cabinet and its only torn on the middle bit then as Gizmo says try using a car / tractor inner tyre tube, remember the seal is wider at the bottom so if you turn it round it will be too short & tight and rip even more, there is more flexible rubber in the bottom to allow the drum to drop back when filling and still have movement for unbalanced loads.

Here is a few pages for info, also will link in previous posts on here that we have documented (use also the Super Search System on here using the term "Hoover Keymatic 3224"

Good luck with your restoration , Cheers , Mike

 

[chestermikeuk]

Here are some pics of bearing replacement completed to date

 

[chestermikeuk]

Bearing housing removed , ready to change bearings.

 

[chestermikeuk]

More useful diagrams ..

 

[Frigidaire Deluxe]

Welcome Frigidaire to AW & Keymatic club, like many here you`ll have your work cut out but looks like you are ready to get stuck in . Had the support wire round the drum snapped ? the drum looked low in the original pics, if you tilt or move the machine backwards they do that dropping the heavyweight drum , snapping the thin wire (we used cyle brake cable to replace ) and bashing the motor against the terminal block.

If your boot is in good nic & fit on the inner tub and front cabinet and its only torn on the middle bit then as Gizmo says try using a car / tractor inner tyre tube, remember the seal is wider at the bottom so if you turn it round it will be too short & tight and rip even more, there is more flexible rubber in the bottom to allow the drum to drop back when filling and still have movement for unbalanced loads.

Here is a few pages for info, also will link in previous posts on here that we have documented (use also the Super Search System on here using the term "Hoover Keymatic 3224"

Good luck with your restoration , Cheers , Mike

Hi Mike!
I’m actually not really new here, my old account (Smartdrive1100) got lost due to the updated site unfortunately. I definitely have my work cut out for me but it’ll be worth it in the end. The support wire is just fine, all intact a little rust but no frayed strands that I can see.

It isn’t the best fit as the whole bottom section has gone hard, removing it in one piece was a bit of a challenge. It still would hold though. I’ll give the tube a shot, It will look terrible but it will work. At least I hope so.

That is a lot of help! I was really stuck after removing everything I could, turns out I need to remove the brake shoe and bearing sleeve! I’m a bit nervous about doing that as I’d be worried it would slip on the actual shape after reassembly. If you could give further instructions on how to go ahead with that it would be greatly appreciated. On the other hand what bearing kit did you get? I’d assume I will need to replace the seal too.

Thanks so much for your help. It’s greatly appreciated. I wouldn’t have a clue other wise!

 

[chestermikeuk]

Ah right yes its a little different round here with the new setup, just calling on the troops to take pics of the Bearing Change Instructions, my books are over at Als with the machines and have asked Mathew to confirm what bearings he used, think we used Hotpoint top loader seal & but used the original spring , will confirm for you.

 

[Frigidaire Deluxe]

All good! I’m in no rush here, would prefer to take it slower and get it done better. I’ll give the outer tub a touch up with POR-15 in some of the rusty spots, over all it isn’t bad, just want to prevent future problems.
I really appreciate all of the help you’re giving!

 

[me]

Possibly a non-foaming urethane adhesive might be useful for repairing the door seal? If you can find one suitable for hot water and detergent. I've only used a tube of a one part sealant/ adhesive for repairing waders and sticking the rubber soles back on my shoes, but as it sets to a film, I wonder if it might work to fill missing bits, if you made a cast of a good section.




or possibly cast a new seal with a 2 part urethane. Although thinking about it, I'm doubtful urethane would form a good enough seal to the glass. <Ha! I forgot it doesn't have glass>



Although as you'd need an external cast, I guess you'd need to rig the mould to slowly rotate if you painted it on and it would also need to be much thinner of course.

 

[vacbear58]

Hi there
Mike asked me to take copies of some service information for you. Rather than do the British stuff I have scanned a complete service manual produced by Meadowbank lest there should be differences between the UK and Australian versions. If this does not give you the information you need please let me know and I will sscan the UK versions, there is a lot of information to hand

 

[vacbear58]

here is part 2

 

[vacbear58]

Part 3

 

[vacbear58]

Part 4

 

[vacbear58]

Part 5

 

[vacbear58]

Part 6

 

[vacbear58]

Part 7

 

[vacbear58]

I had a look at the UK service documentation which seemed much more detailed than the Australian version so I thought might be helpful in rebuilding the machine and getting it running again. It is contained in the attachment, I think your current issue about bearings my be covered towards the end of the document (it is 46 pages!). There may be some detail differences to your machine as these machines were constantly being updated during the production of the 3224 at least, but hopefully it will be of assistance

Al

 

[gizmo]

Oh wow, thanks for uploading those! Such a great resource.

The part 7 spare parts section - the cover shows something that confirms a memory from my childhood that I have long puzzled over.
As a child we always had Hoover upright vacuum cleaners, always bought from the local Hoover store, Westwoods in Frankston.
Even bags and belts were always bought there. I always enjoyed going to the store, there were interesting displays and the people were lovely. It was a very small store, just a little counter and usually one or two vacuums, one polisher and one washer on display.
One day there was a Keymatic on display, but it wasn't badged Keymatic, it had only a number - a 3 digit number, in the 400s. 420? 450? It was right towards the end of Keymatics, early 1970s?

There in that parts catalogue is the answer - the catalogue is for 3224, 3226, 3226A, Mark 4 and..... 425! The mystery is solved.

When the Keymatic was dropped in Australia (we never had the later, square body Keymatics) it was replaced by the Hoover 455, a unique for Australia model made at Merthyr Tydfil in Wales. Black dashboard with an orange switch for A/B, which was basically spin / no spin.)
That was replaced by an Australian made version, the simplified Hoover 460 and 465. (No dispenser drawer, and no heater on the 460.)

 

[Frigidaire Deluxe]

I had a look at the UK service documentation which seemed much more detailed than the Australian version so I thought might be helpful in rebuilding the machine and getting it running again. It is contained in the attachment, I think your current issue about bearings my be covered towards the end of the document (it is 46 pages!). There may be some detail differences to your machine as these machines were constantly being updated during the production of the 3224 at least, but hopefully it will be of assistance

Al

Thanks Vacbear85
Those are so incredibly helpful! I’ll definitely have a shot at the bearings on the weekend. There was a lot of corroded aluminium in the bottom of the drum so hopefully everything is ok. That pin that holds the bearing sleeve on (I think that’s the correct term, the part that has the brake shoe and what the pulleys go on to) seems pretty difficult to remove.

But again, thank you so much! This is so greatly appreciated. I’m surprised there are documents floating around.

 

[Frigidaire Deluxe]

Oh wow, thanks for uploading those! Such a great resource.

The part 7 spare parts section - the cover shows something that confirms a memory from my childhood that I have long puzzled over.
As a child we always had Hoover upright vacuum cleaners, always bought from the local Hoover store, Westwoods in Frankston.
Even bags and belts were always bought there. I always enjoyed going to the store, there were interesting displays and the people were lovely. It was a very small store, just a little counter and usually one or two vacuums, one polisher and one washer on display.
One day there was a Keymatic on display, but it wasn't badged Keymatic, it had only a number - a 3 digit number, in the 400s. 420? 450? It was right towards the end of Keymatics, early 1970s?

There in that parts catalogue is the answer - the catalogue is for 3224, 3226, 3226A, Mark 4 and..... 425! The mystery is solved.

When the Keymatic was dropped in Australia (we never had the later, square body Keymatics) it was replaced by the Hoover 455, a unique for Australia model made at Merthyr Tydfil in Wales. Black dashboard with an orange switch for A/B, which was basically spin / no spin.)
That was replaced by an Australian made version, the simplified Hoover 460 and 465. (No dispenser drawer, and no heater on the 460.)

That’s pretty cool!

I do have a Hoover 460 which I saved, was sitting outside and probably was going to get chucked. Just needs a pump and the wiring to be sorted.

 

[gizmo]

That pin that holds the bearing sleeve on

In the new downloads, that pin is called the transax pin. (point 19 in section 4.)

I drilled mine out when I pulled mine apart years ago, but the manual says to punch it INWARDS, into the pulsator shaft tunnel. I'd use a parallel pin punch, Bunnings sells sets of them. You would have already removed the pulsator which includes its shaft, so the spin tube now has an empty hollow where you can punch the transax pin. Later you can remove the transax pin from inside the shaft - I'd try using a magnetized screwdriver - and with luck you might even be able to reuse it.
The transax pin should also have a little rubber cap pressed in on top of it, (It's in the parts diagram) I'm not sure of the purpose but I'd just put a little silicone sealant in over the pin, smooth it down and leave it to dry before doing any more reassembly.

 

[Chetlaham]

The Hoover Keymatic is probably the best washing machine ever made in the history of humanity. Lucky to all who have one!

I just want to ask, why are there two pressure switches?

 

[chestermikeuk]

That's some statement in the history of first automatic washing machines , others will have many different views

The pressure vessel is lower front right of the machine cabinet connected to the sump hose ( hence the complicated sump hose arrangement ) two hoses come out the top of the pressure pot and travel to the fixed on top chassis pressure valves , 2 because it's a Hot & Cold washing machine with individual pressure switches for the wash rinse water levels .

 

[Chetlaham]

That's some statement in the history of first automatic washing machines , others will have many different views

The pressure vessel is lower front right of the machine cabinet connected to the sump hose ( hence the complicated sump hose arrangement ) two hoses come out the top of the pressure pot and travel to the fixed on top chassis pressure valves , 2 because it's a Hot & Cold washing machine .

Hoover Keymatic is certainly at least I think a top contender. I wish I had one to try out and play with. I don't entirely have a preference for the keymatic concept, but the rest of solid with great washing and rinsing.


I'm still confused though, couldn't one pressure switch do the job and sense water only in one location? In the US Hot and Cold connected machines have only on pressure switch, though to be fair like the Maytag Neptunes had more than one set of contacts within the pressure switch for varying wash and rinse levels.