Recent content by jwpate

BEAUTIFUL, BEAUTIFUL JOB!!!! Brian, this restoration looks to be a new standard for excellence.  Just a wonderful job all around, and it has been a delightful afternoon just looking through the photos and admiring the outcome.   Best wishes   James

This should help, at least somewhat, with getting the silt out.  The ball style valve is a straight route out, and a so called full-flow design.  That T fitting and extra pipe is the recirculating pump return, and has been there all along.   I may well have gotten with the program too late to...

And look at the output end!  That is less than half open.   Not much way to get the kind of flow we need through a tap such as this one has become.   So we will be switching to another style.    

And what I found certainly did surprise me.  This nasty looking mess is the inlet side of the tap.  Really clogged up with silt, crud and corrosion.

Another weakness I now realize we all need to be concerned with is the silt buildup inside the WH as time goes by.  I have drawn off a gallon or so of water every six months or so, and watched for silt in the bucket.  Now I know, that what is really needed is a full power, wide open flow of...

So, after I received the new rods, I was naturally anxious to see what the original looked like after six and a half years.  And Brother, this is all that remains!  I did use a long magnet to search around inside the tank - but nothing was found there.   I should point out that here in Nevada...

I do realize that this thread is from a year and a half ago, but some of us are a little late.  Boy, do I appreciate beekeyknee taking the time and effort to open our eyes on this subject.  Thanks Brian, yet again, and I hope that getting this thread back on the front page will help some other...

<span style="font-size: medium;">                                                                      .........<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>SLOSHING, SLOSHING, SLOSHING................</span> <span style="font-size: medium;">                                                         ...

Now I just set it for low load, cold water and let her rip. Here the lid switch has been jury-rigged so we can see in. Ran it a full cycle just to see that all the controls and switches have survived my attentions. All seems well. Checked carefully for leaks and found none, so put back the...

Now we are into the testing phase........the moment of truth! First I connected up the water inlet hoses and the drain hose, then plugged her in. First I selected spin cycle and let the machine spin dry for about 4-5 minutes. The spin was wonderfully quiet and smooth. Just as one should...

Now position the new drive belts and adjust the pump belt such that when pinching the belt runs together at the mid point until the motor slide just begins to react, you will have 1/4 inch or less gap between the pinched belt sections. Tighten up the pump screws to secure this adjustment.

Screw the helix pulley on clockwise and check the feel as it releases the brake, engages the clutch washers and begins to turn the transmission and inner tub. Then back off and develop a feel for the point where the brake assembly is first made contact with. From that point, place the stop lug...

So now I can move on to these items. Lubricate the helix threads in the pulley, use a wheel bearing grease to pack the little brake rotor bearing, and tilt the machine back exposing the underside.

Well it will do, at least for a while. And it is an easy job to replace it. If unable to locate the correct molded hose for this machine I shall use a length of silicone hose, which can easily make those bends without any problem. This substitute fit up well to the tub, but was too small and...

Well it will do, at least for a while. And it is an easy job to replace it. If unable to locate the correct molded hose for this machine I shall use a length of silicone hose, which can easily make those bends without any problem. This substitute fit up well to the tub, but was too small and...