Recent content by ncpapaul

Thank you. I am so fond of direct drive Whirlpool/Kenmore that I told her to stick with top load with agitator types, Paul

I can keep mine, daughters, mother in laws direct drive whirlpool/kenmore washers and dryers going but now my daughter in law/son/grandson's newer non-direct drive units are going bad. What brand/models should I recommend to them if they are going to have to go to Lowe's or Home Depot...

Thank you John

Even though my Kenmore 110.26822690 had two tall seals at the top most of the parts supply places list this 285203 number as correct. So somewhere along the way Whirlpool switched seals yes?

Does anyone have a clear copy of this sheet I could borrow or beg? Thank you, Paul

If there is a gap between the upper seal or seals and the bearing sleeve in the center post............can I not install the seal or seals (still not sure whether to use 2 of the tall ones or the "new" single seal) install the seal lower down into the tube - towards the bearing sleeve maybe...

I'm in Oxford, I run a machine shop for the acoustics research center. I am self taught but stubborn so i'm learning a lot but slow. Thank you PS: I have just started seeing/hearing discussion on "neutral drain spin" issues, that's a whole other thing I know nothing about, thank you, Paul

This "bottom" of the center post is a question for you guys also. How many seals fit here? and lips go "up" ? away from how we are looking up the tube? To seal water from above?

Can I use the "new" single seal at the top and let it move the seal lip wear area that appears in my shaft?

I borrowed this photo from someone in this forum. I had the exact pitting but I was able to MIG "stitch" buildup the surface, file and sand it in a lathe to get it to mic exactly the same diameter as the rest of it.