Recent content by Wobbly

Thanks much for the scanning and helpful information from all. I had to get a new washer today. Did some fevered research on the net. I waffled all over the place from $1500 high efficiency machines with steam made in Korea to a $400 top loader agitator Whirlpool made in the USA. I got the $400...

I did run the motor in both directions with the belts off, but neglected to report. Ran smoothly in either direction without the belts. Thanks for the reply!

Well, I think it's time to admit defeat. The new brake didn't help. I'm guessing that the tub bearing is bad. New motor and belts didn't help. We need a working washer, and there's no place to store this while I stumble along trying to repair it. I'll probably try to sell the replacement motor...

I hand tightened the brake and then gave it a few whacks with a drift. Now when it attempts to spin it knocks before tripping. In the wash cycle, the counterweight rotates about 90 degrees, pauses, then rotates another 90 degrees. It doesn't seem to have the same sound it did when agitating...

The replacement brake package has arrived and I'm not sure how tight it should be threaded in. The washer is tilted back to allow access to the pulley area. As the brake is threaded in it the transmission becomes harder to turn and it seem like the counterweight is rubbing on something (but...

As the brake package was unthreading the transmission became progressively easier to rotate. Conversely, as the brake was threaded back on, it became harder to rotate the transmission, until it wouldn't turn.

Should the brake rotor bearing and the brake package be replaced together? Any chance that a seized tub bearing might be part of the problem?

There is a strip of fibrous material coming out of what I assume is the brake.

The voltage is 120. Where is the brake? When the transmission pulley is turned the transmission housing with counterweight doesn't turn. When the transmission housing is turned (lots of resistance) the transmission pulley does turn.

Hi, The motor carriage moves freely. When the belts are removed the carriage springs move the carriage out so that the motor shaft rubs on the bottom panel. With the belts on there is no contact.

Last night our Maytag A606 would not drain and spin. I replaced the belts with genuine Maytag belts with no improvement. This morning I replaced the motor with a new one. It also tripped out attempting to start the spin cycle. I then cleaned all the pulleys with rubbing alcohol with no...

Just received the "new" temperature buttons which I found at a bargain price on the web: http://www.marks-parts.com/PartsItem.php?item=51061 The web site description is for part 2-3167. The package I received is labeled as 2-4695. Unlike the photo, the buttons I received look like they have...

V-belts used for clutching applications are covered by at least one patent: 4244234 http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4244234.pdf Graphite is impregnated into the side walls to reduce the coefficient of friction between the pulley and the belt. DAYCO was the patent assignee.

The belts have Maytag part numbers, but no logo or other identification. They are made in Mexico.

The subject of genuine Maytag versus aftermarket belts was discussed here. It sounds like one poster bought the same EBAY kit that I did. Like to know if his worked better than mine: http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?27555