Whirlpool Washer Rant!

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Even the lid instructions on the Maytag commercial. Tell you this about using the normal cycle. How it works with your selection for optimal performance. I forget exactly what it says but that's the gist of it. In other words, it overrides what you choose. It's the way they word it without being direct.
I'm sorry but is it just the normal mode that does this? I know it has the Eco mode for normal. I may have mis-understood you.

Does the mixed cycle do this? I understood that it was just the normal (eco) mode that over-rides the water level selection.

The manual says that only normal water level is adaptive
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I've owned the older model of this washer for seven years now. No issues other than replacing the agitator dogs (inexpensive easy-to-replace part that has to be replaced occasionally due to normal wear/tear). Interesting. Does the newer model override the "Normal" cycle only or all cycles? If only "normal" cycle, I think this is the cycle that manufacturers use to meet whatever energy savings requirements they have to. It may not be specific to this washer or manufacturer. Just be aware of it, and work around it.

On my older model, Normal is a half load wash and spray rinse and the ONLY option for a smaller wash load. Surprisingly, it works well for lightly soiled items or as a "Quick Wash". I have my hoses hooked up so that I control the water temp with the faucets and not the knobs, so I have true warm or hot water for these washes too. It's too rough for smaller loads of delicates though.

If you are set on getting a top load washer, the Maytag described here works well. The dual action agitator moves clothes down, in, and through the water very well. It actually uses a full tub of water (at least my model does), and the basic load selections meet my needs.

I was able to get around the restrictions by hooking up my washer differently, so I control the temp from the water faucet. For that small load of whites? I just wash it twice on Normal, and I have hot water for it. Need a half tub rinse. Run a load with no detergent. I just have to remember to put the faucet back on cold after the tub initially fills for any load I do. Yeah. I shouldn't have to do this, but it is what it is. It's a great washer if one is willing to do these extra steps. I hope the newer model of this is only overriding the Normal. The temperature control for the deep water washes didn't seem to be restricted on my older model. In fact the auto temp control is nice because it adjusts for seasons using more warm water in winter and less in summer where incoming water is cooloer or hotter--this is for deep water washes only. It seemed to use tap hot for hot. I even tested mine above the recommended 120 installer per manufacturer's instructions. It is only that normal cycle, which I used a lot, why I had to hook the hoses up different.

Honestly. I am sure there were good intentions behind these water-saving requirements, but they weren't well thought out or actually researched. Really. They should have had someone that actually uses these explore these options before making them mandatory. Without work arounds, they may require more water (that small load of whites where the only half load is cold only), running the load again (not enough water or wash time), smaller loads so there is enough water (more electricity), more chemicals (to compensate for lack of water temp or less wash time), etc. The biggest glaring reminder of these is all the yard ornaments I see on porches, yards, etc. They only last a few years now IF you are lucky and use them carefully. They wind up in landfills and not recycled because they are too expensive to repair (labor and parts) for most. They took a situation and made it worse!

If I had gotten another front load, I would have looked at the LG turbo or there is a GE that my daughter really likes too.
The older ones were okay I was referring to the stuff Whirlpool is manufacturing right now. Also, is it the commercial or a regular model? Of course some of the newer Kenmore and Crosley models are also constantly draining if it’s a 2023 or 2024 as some of these were from Whirlpool too. Any six-light VMW from 2023 through 2024 will have this massive control board issue.
 
The older ones were okay I was referring to the stuff Whirlpool is manufacturing right now. Also, is it the commercial or a regular model? Of course some of the newer Kenmore and Crosley models are also constantly draining if it’s a 2023 or 2024 as some of these were from Whirlpool too. Any six-light VMW from 2023 through 2024 will have this massive control board issue.
What about the 2025 models?
 
i have a maytag mvw6230hw2 to have a decent wash i need to use the deep fill wash to have a decent amount of water so the detergent enters the clothes fiber for a good wash sorry for my small rant here but the only thing that ticks me off washer decide no matter if warm or hot or that it do the clean cycle with afresh to send in cold water to be able to use hot water i need to unplug the washer to reset the controls for 1 minute sometime 5 minutes then press 5 second on the power button
 
Some of the newer GE’s also seem to get into the constant drain cycle, tho it’s less common.
You've got to be kidding. They're doing it too now? I was considering on getting a new machine as I just sold three machines that I had. Right now it looks like the GE agitator washers are the best of a bad bunch...remember I said looks, not fact.
 
Recently brought home a 2023 set of WP TOL top load washer and (electric) dryer. The washer had a broken impeller, the collar that holds the all-but-useless spiral-shaped removable 'agitator' had broken when a stiff door-mat was washed. Rather than waiting for repair, parts, etc. the owners decided to replace the set with the exact same set. I had the part at my door in a few days, fixed and cleaned both machines a few weeks ago. I pulled the washer basket out and was pleasantly surprised that it was quite clean. Just a quick wash of the outer tub with a brush and a light scrub of the outside of the basket and we were good to go.

Have been using it for (most) of the weekly washing now for several weeks. I'm still exploring all of the cycles and options but have to say it's a pretty decent performing washer overall. You can get it to fill up to about 3/4 full, a very ample amount of water for a really large load. It will wash effectively about twice what my 1969 Whirlpool Mark XII will do.

I will use it until I'm bored, which probably won't take long. It really is a much thirstier washer than my 2017 Speed Queen front-loader it's holding a space for - bordering on obscene, really.
 

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Recently brought home a 2023 set of WP TOL top load washer and (electric) dryer. The washer had a broken impeller, the collar that holds the all-but-useless spiral-shaped removable 'agitator' had broken when a stiff door-mat was washed. Rather than waiting for repair, parts, etc. the owners decided to replace the set with the exact same set. I had the part at my door in a few days, fixed and cleaned both machines a few weeks ago. I pulled the washer basket out and was pleasantly surprised that it was quite clean. Just a quick wash of the outer tub with a brush and a light scrub of the outside of the basket and we were good to go.

Have been using it for (most) of the weekly washing now for several weeks. I'm still exploring all of the cycles and options but have to say it's a pretty decent performing washer overall. You can get it to fill up to about 3/4 full, a very ample amount of water for a really large load. It will wash effectively about twice what my 1969 Whirlpool Mark XII will do.

I will use it until I'm bored, which probably won't take long. It really is a much thirstier washer than my 2017 Speed Queen front-loader it's holding a space for - bordering on obscene, really.
Thank you Greg for this comment. I want to get a new machine as I don't want to continually use the 74 Kenmore. Does this thing actually turn the load over like that load you pictured there ? If it does I will definitely consider it. I really don't want to go with GE. If I should get it I'll be sure to film some loads with it.
 
I don’t understand why anyone would want the 4516 instead of the 4519 either, it has worse quality suspension rods and smaller tub although when new the 4516 spins smoother, the 4519 has more options and I don’t mind the taller impeller VMWs, although I’m not too big on the smaller balance ring on that unit (not sure why Whirlpool did this in 2018).

The commercial units had the bigger balance rings as well as the older washplate ones (like my WTW4900BW0). I don’t like that Whirlpool is now using the smaller balance rings plus when those go off balance they often bang while the tub is spinning at full speed causing it to put holes in the wall. They don’t usually explode, tho but I’ve seen some get somewhat damaged. Plus during the spin cycle the smaller balance ring narrow drum whirlpools make this weird “popping” noise.

The NTW4516FW seems to spin smoothly at first but prone to suspension rod issues after about 3-6 years. Don’t be surprised if your 4516 starts to bang after about 4 years (if the control board doesn’t fail in 9 months).

If you overload the 4519, that hub will strip out within a few years.

Both have this control board issue, all the six light Whirlpools from 2024 or 2023 did pretty much, both Amana and Whirlpool, and I’m pretty sure some units from Crosley, Roper, and Kenmore did as well. As well as that 3.5 cu ft Admiral that isn’t sold anywhere. Any whirlpool with the six lights underneath the panel has the control board issue, regardless of the brand or model. The newer style whirlpools don’t seem to have it. Every whirlpool machine that’s VMW or VMAX has a flood mode, they don’t just flood your house when it’s overfilling like a GE Model-T does.

The older VMWs (pre-2018) with the stainless narrower drums (not the 4.2 to 4.3 models) didn’t get suspension rod issues often at all and the suspension on those usually lasted at least 7 years before failure. Also, as much as I hate modern GE washing machines, I think those are more reliable than the newest Whirlpools. LG’s don’t seem too bad as long as you buy the ones without the AI controls.

The removable agitator was introduced in 2021 as a Whirlpool exclusive, it’s essentially just a washplate machine with a random stick.

If you’re buying a Whirlpool right now I’d strongly recommend getting the newer style models (although those are junk and are prone to vibrations on spin cycle), although they don’t have a major control board issue. The basic models have major issues with the control board. I’d you’re getting a whirlpool I’d also recommend getting a VMAX and not a VMW (the big drum VMWs have issues with the pump wires). The big drum VMWs should’ve just continued using the same drain pumps as the VMAX machines (that was already done with the first models of those from 2020), I’m guessing Whirlpool changes the pumps to save some Pennies as the other pumps were cheaper to use. Even the 4.2 to 4.3 cu ft VMWs used to use the VMAX pumps until 2019, although I didn’t really see pump wire issues with the smaller big drum VMWs.
 
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For you to believe that the 4519 wash plate with a polel is better than a regular agitator you got to be kidding yourself. I am considering actually getting the Whirlpool commercial again because it was such a good machine for a modern day machine. I had no problems in the two years I had it. I would definitely consider the CAE2795FQ again .

Does anyone know if they made a revision to the Whirlpool commercial ? When I had the machine the number ending revision was 1.... You guys that fix these things. Do you know if they've made any revisions since 2022 ?
 
We see by far the most problems with new GE top load laundry appliances. They just can’t get it right.

And the GE full size rear control panel dryers are the absolute worst thing on the market if you’ve ever tried to work on them it’s beyond cheap, yes, they do work so you have to repair them. It’s unbelievably how poorly that thing is

GE doesn’t seem to be doing extremely well with their full-size front load laundry either too many noise complaints and again the dryers just don’t have a very good drum support system and again hard to work on.

Whirlpool still builds the best laundry appliances for the dollar and of course Speed Queen builds the most rugged and repairable machines however quite expensive.

Yesterday I installed a new TC5 to replace an LT Maytag with the damper hitch just totally failed.

I also installed a new Speed Queen front loader in a small apartment building to replace a whirlpool direct drive coin up machine. I’ll have to post pictures of that. That whirlpool was quite tired, but it was still working. It had been repaired many times.

John L
 
We see by far the most problems with new GE top load laundry appliances. They just can’t get it right.

And the GE full size rear control panel dryers are the absolute worst thing on the market if you’ve ever tried to work on them it’s beyond cheap, yes, they do work so you have to repair them. It’s unbelievably how poorly that thing is

GE doesn’t seem to be doing extremely well with their full-size front load laundry either too many noise complaints and again the dryers just don’t have a very good drum support system and again hard to work on.

Whirlpool still builds the best laundry appliances for the dollar and of course Speed Queen builds the most rugged and repairable machines however quite expensive.

Yesterday I installed a new TC5 to replace an LT Maytag with the damper hitch just totally failed.

I also installed a new Speed Queen front loader in a small apartment building to replace a whirlpool direct drive coin up machine. I’ll have to post pictures of that. That whirlpool was quite tired, but it was still working. It had been repaired many times.

John L
Some friends bought a GE gas dryer last year to replace a 6 year old WP top-filter dryer. A plastic zipper pull got caught in between the drum and front of the machine. I opened it up to remove the offending bit of plastic, easy enough, but that was one of the cheapest-built machines I've ever put a nut driver to. 'Friends don't let friends buy GE.' We've been saying that for years, still true today.
 
That right there is the best top load wash money can buy. 3 speeds, auto temp control, best washing, best rinsing, best results. All the features one could ask for, plus fully automatic detergent, bleach and softner dispensing. Those washers were truly peak, the crest of human civilization.
 
For you to believe that the 4519 wash plate with a polel is better than a regular agitator you got to be kidding yourself. I am considering actually getting the Whirlpool commercial again because it was such a good machine for a modern day machine. I had no problems in the two years I had it. I would definitely consider the CAE2795FQ again .

Does anyone know if they made a revision to the Whirlpool commercial ? When I had the machine the number ending revision was 1.... You guys that fix these things. Do you know if they've made any revisions since 2022 ?
No. They haven’t. Both are known for control issues. Honestly don’t mind impeller/agipeller washers, if I has to pick between the 4516 and 4519 I’d personally pick the 4519, larger capacity and better quality suspension rods. I also like stainless steel drums over any porcelain coated drum. Although I won’t be buying any new washer from Whirlpool anytime soon. I’d still buy the dryers as those seem pretty good. Whirlpool dryers are great (at least the more basic ones are). I’m guessing the affected models will be discontinued soon since they are not being revised. If I did buy anything Whirlpool I’d get the Maytag because they have a better warranty so at least if the motor bearing becomes noisy or if the tub goes bad under the 10 year warranty I can replace it for free.
 
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Just went to Lowe's tonight and bought the Whirlpool WTW4816. I bought the extended 3-year warranty and it still cost me less than the GE 465. I was going to go for the GE but I'll still stick with Whirlpool regardless. Even though GE has that gargantuan tub, it just sounds like it strains more and I don't like the cheap feel of the knobs. Whirlpool has better quality controls I think. I had to get a machine because I didn't want to use the 74 Kenmore as a daily driver as it is now the only machine I have left.
 
Just went to Lowe's tonight and bought the Whirlpool WTW4816. I bought the extended 3-year warranty and it still cost me less than the GE 465. I was going to go for the GE but I'll still stick with Whirlpool regardless. Even though GE has that gargantuan tub, it just sounds like it strains more and I don't like the cheap feel of the knobs. Whirlpool has better quality controls I think. I had to get a machine because I didn't want to use the 74 Kenmore as a daily driver as it is now the only machine I have left.

Wait, you gave the 85 belt drive, Kenmore 2000, Kitchen-Aid and 76 Kenmore away?
 
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