4bagger
Well-known member
I've used this dryer about 10 times now and she really is a workhorse. Currently paired with a pristine '59 Maytag model 142. Mismatched, but still very cool set.
Lady Kenmore 800 Soft Heat Gas Dryer Start Up
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4bagger
Well-known member
blower bearing
Dryer didn't want to start this morning. Took the blower belt off and it started right up. Reinstalled the belt and again wouldn't start. Removed the blower unit from the machine to oil the bearings. Question: does it need to be disassembled to oil bearings or is there an oil port somewhere. If it does need to be disassembled, it's not obvious to me where to start.
Dryer didn't want to start this morning. Took the blower belt off and it started right up. Reinstalled the belt and again wouldn't start. Removed the blower unit from the machine to oil the bearings. Question: does it need to be disassembled to oil bearings or is there an oil port somewhere. If it does need to be disassembled, it's not obvious to me where to start.
4bagger
Well-known member
Okay she's back up and running smoother & quieter than ever. Getting the blower unit apart enough to oil the bearing became obvious as I was cleaning it. Great advive John L. Should've oiled the unit out of the gate.
Lady K Dryer here
I own the same dryer, a few things to watch out for, the drum is installed using a big brass bushing and flange,occasionally remove the plastic access port inside the drum,set the dryer to air dry only. Use a flashlight while the drum is spinning,make sure the bushing is spinning with the drum,you can use a sharpie to mark the front of the bushing.If the brass bushing is not spinning with the drum,the flange in back of the drum will score the bushing,eventually will cause the dryer to fail.I had a hard time finding a bushing, by luck on eBay, I found a new one.I coated the new bushing with non slip rug pad,solved the issue.
I own the same dryer, a few things to watch out for, the drum is installed using a big brass bushing and flange,occasionally remove the plastic access port inside the drum,set the dryer to air dry only. Use a flashlight while the drum is spinning,make sure the bushing is spinning with the drum,you can use a sharpie to mark the front of the bushing.If the brass bushing is not spinning with the drum,the flange in back of the drum will score the bushing,eventually will cause the dryer to fail.I had a hard time finding a bushing, by luck on eBay, I found a new one.I coated the new bushing with non slip rug pad,solved the issue.
I have a 1963 RCA Whirlpool Imperial dryer in electric, and I greased the bearing but I might grease it again just for the sake of greasing it and making sure it doesn’t start squeaking.
I’ll post a picture of my 1963 Whirlpool Imperial dryer just Incase if anyone wants see what it looks like
I’ll post a picture of my 1963 Whirlpool Imperial dryer just Incase if anyone wants see what it looks like
dryer update
What are the updates on this dryer? What is the drying temp for sturdy cottons?
What are the updates on this dryer? What is the drying temp for sturdy cottons?
Reply #35
I believe most of those Kenmore soft heat dryers had all the temperatures built in. Even the timed drying cycles on a Kenmore soft heat are a sort of automatic dry cycle. Basically on the gas versions, it starts out with the full 37,000 heat output then gradually starts turning the flame down and if the temperature can’t be held once the clothes are dry, it’ll shut off the heat completely. The electric versions of the Kenmore soft heat simply just use a lower and high wattage element, basically the higher wattage element cycles on and off while lower wattage element stats on to maintain a steady temperature, if the temperature can’t be held once the clothes are dry, it’ll cut off the heat early before the cool-down. Probably left out a thing or two but that’s how it works from my understanding from surfing through the archives on the Kenmore soft heat dryers.
I believe most of those Kenmore soft heat dryers had all the temperatures built in. Even the timed drying cycles on a Kenmore soft heat are a sort of automatic dry cycle. Basically on the gas versions, it starts out with the full 37,000 heat output then gradually starts turning the flame down and if the temperature can’t be held once the clothes are dry, it’ll shut off the heat completely. The electric versions of the Kenmore soft heat simply just use a lower and high wattage element, basically the higher wattage element cycles on and off while lower wattage element stats on to maintain a steady temperature, if the temperature can’t be held once the clothes are dry, it’ll cut off the heat early before the cool-down. Probably left out a thing or two but that’s how it works from my understanding from surfing through the archives on the Kenmore soft heat dryers.
Kenmore soft heat dryers from the 60s
Reply number 36, mostly correct
During the heated portion of the timed or auto dry cycles. The heat never shuts off, unless something goes wrong.
On the electric versions there is no operating thermostat at all the smaller heating element will always be on.
On the gas versions themodulating burner will hold the temperature between 160 and 165 depending on the dryer it’s one or the other, if the modulating burner failed to modulate down word such as a failure, the heat was shut off at 180 to protect the machine and the clothing. but normally the flame never goes out until it gets to cool down.
John.
️ j
Reply number 36, mostly correct
During the heated portion of the timed or auto dry cycles. The heat never shuts off, unless something goes wrong.
On the electric versions there is no operating thermostat at all the smaller heating element will always be on.
On the gas versions themodulating burner will hold the temperature between 160 and 165 depending on the dryer it’s one or the other, if the modulating burner failed to modulate down word such as a failure, the heat was shut off at 180 to protect the machine and the clothing. but normally the flame never goes out until it gets to cool down.
John.
️ j
<blockquote>Combo52: On the electric versions there is no operating thermostat at all the smaller heating element will always be on.</blockquote> What controls the larger element?
I think it is the operating thermostat. I had an electric Kenmore Soft Heat dryer and it was amazingly fast because when the larger element cycled, there was still heat input from the smaller element so the dryer did not have to depend on those old heavy thermostats cooling down to cycle the heat back on which can be a lengthy process during which moisture removal slows. The smaller element will be on until the timer sends the machine into the end of cycle cool down or if the high limit thermostat shuts off the heat.
My KA Franken Dryer with the 37K modulating burner provides an exhaust temperature at the end of the vent hose of 165F within 5 minutes of starting.
My KA Franken Dryer with the 37K modulating burner provides an exhaust temperature at the end of the vent hose of 165F within 5 minutes of starting.
It's just a white dryer with the black control panel that matches the KAWE860, but is one step down, but it is under wraps for the winter because it is outside under the deck with the other gas appliances. I will try to learn how to take pictures. I don't know how to document the 37K burner, though. I do have the same dryer in electric inside which I use some during the winter. Maybe I can get a picture of it.
kenmore gas dryer ignitor on all the time
I have a Kenmore Series 90 gas dryer 11070902998 that stopped working one afternoon. It worked fine in the morning. Pushing the start button only elicited a hum. I replaced the motor with a new one...same thing again. I replaced the timer and little electronic control board. Still won't start. Now, I notice that the gas ignitor is on as soon as I plug the machine in. If the dryer is on the air-only part of the dial, this doesn't happen. I've got very little left to replace...any ideas?
I have a Kenmore Series 90 gas dryer 11070902998 that stopped working one afternoon. It worked fine in the morning. Pushing the start button only elicited a hum. I replaced the motor with a new one...same thing again. I replaced the timer and little electronic control board. Still won't start. Now, I notice that the gas ignitor is on as soon as I plug the machine in. If the dryer is on the air-only part of the dial, this doesn't happen. I've got very little left to replace...any ideas?
Check the belt-break switch, it might be open, the contact should be closed all the time except when the belt breaks.
John
John
Ok, since I'm a fairly new member, still reading all the interesting posts on this stuff, I ask the question - was a video ever uploaded of the modulating 37,000 btu burner for the 800 KM gas dryer? If not, I can perhaps help to make that video with my vintage unit. Also, some things I've run into over the years with my lady: Open start winding in the motor - was able to repair / solder it. Centrifigal motor switch went bad - was able to repair, but also sourced a new one for later. The usual belts and ignitor failures - mine is a clapper unit. Hi limit switch failed, but I didn't realize that this was an ongoing problem for a couple years, where the burner would shut off toward the middle of the timed cycle, then a chattering noise from the gas solenoids and ignitor wanting to re-ignite the burner - it was all caused by the hi limit switch being intermittent - this one had me stumped for a long time! Other than that, she's pretty reliable for a 60 year old, does at least one load a day.
Didn't the Lady Kenmore designation get replaced by the Kenmore Elite line?
Not that I'm aware of, a video would be fantastic. Loading it up on Youtube would get a wider audience and preserve it for future viewing.
Ok, I'll work on doing just that.
I’ve always wondered how the Soft-Heat modulating gas burners worked on those early 60’s Kenmore gas dryers, have some idea as to how they work, but a video would be able to convey that much, much better. Tried explaining how the modulating burner works to a friend of mine from the UK (servis-dream) who was quite intrigued by that concept, but once there’s a video, it’ll give me and others a visual of how it works.
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Well, I can share my theory. The burner has a regulator built in - basically a rubber diaphragm that moves a pintle in or out controllng the amount of gas going to the burner - think of your barbeque HI - MED -LOW control. On one end of this diaphragm, there is a counteracting force - a spring, which pushes on the diagphragm towards opening the pintle (to let maximum gas through). On the other side of the diaphragm, there is a closed chamber which is attached to a capillary tube. This tube runs up to a sensing bulb that is mounted in the air exit stream. When the cloths are just put in, they are full of moisture. This moisture evaporates in the exit air stream and cools the temperature where the bulb is. Cooler temperature means lower pressure inside the closed chamber and thus the spring overcomes the lower pressure, thereby opening the pintle fully. As the cloths start to dry, less moisture, more heat in the exit stream and higher pressure in the capillary and closed chamber. This higher pressure overcomes the force of the spring and pushes the pintle toward closed, reducing the amount of gas going to the burner. Long winded, I know. Anyways, I did a video this morning, 40 some minutes long, showing the modulating burner flame. Now all I have to do is figure how to upload it from my phone. Anyone volunteer to help me do that?
. Actually, you could start the dryer empty and watch the flame shrink to very low quickly.
Yes, I believe that is the case. Larger, heavier loads take longer.
No, the drying temperature is determined by the burner control. Mine drys at 160F no matter the load size or fabric weight.
Naturally large heavy loads take longer, but the drying temperature is the same unless you have a dryer with a temperature selector that allows the choice of a lower temperature for delicates. I think John has a LK with a temperature selector, but Soft Heat. A bias heater on the thermostat might figure into that.
How about I upload the video here and someone can put it on youtube. I updated the app on my phone, but there is no "upload" button or anything of the sorts.
If you are logged in on YouTube, you tap the plus button, have three options for video, live, post. When you tap the upload option, it’ll give you access to the videos in the gallery on your phone. Once you tap the video you selected, can type in the tile and description of the video, then you can upload it from there. Make sure to not hit the for kids button since it’ll disable the comments section and possibly might flag you for being underaged with the AI YouTube is now using.
Don’t know if you’ll be able to upload the full 40 minute video here on AW.
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