LK Belt Drive problem. What’s happening?

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Marky_Mark

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Living in Palm Springs and Madrid. From Liverpool.
Hi guys

Although the machine agitates and spins perfectly, there is clearly something not right when it goes into spin.

I recorded this video with the lid open and then closed it to commence the spin.

What should I do?
It’s a 1978 LK electronic washer and it has been in storage for many years.

Thanks,
Mark
View attachment IMG_3800.mov
 
I believe the belt has taken a set, where it has developed a stiff areas where was under tension around the small diameter motor and pump pulleys. And it possibly is not tensioned properly. Hence the uneven woo-woo sound as the basket accelerates. Probably the best bet would be to replace it. Also, check the pump pulley for free movement.

-LP
 
When the clutch loads down as it goes into spin, the belt is slipping a little bit, it could be the clutch grabbing a little bit cleaning the cast-iron surface of the clutch pulley might help. Also check the belt tension. If it’s a little bit loose that makes it worse and of course, a new belt certainly might be an order.

This problem may get better after the machine is used 20 or 30 cycles. If you don’t really wanna get into it just keep using the machine it may go away.

John L
 
Thanks, guys. I really appreciate the help.

I had another look at it and the belt seemed too loose. So I’ve tightened it and it now goes into spin no problem with no belt slippage. But the belt does indeed have a bad flat spot, as magic_clean mentioned.

I mustn’t have tensioned the belt enough when I replaced the pump a few days ago. The original pump was jammed.

Here is a video I’ve just taken of it going into spin now that I’ve tightened the belt. Does this all sound and look right? Any other maintenance, replacement, lubrication and cleaning I should do to these parts? I’ve oiled the clutch pulley bearing but nothing else so far.


View attachment IMG_3804.mov
 
Loose spelt on a whirlpool belt drive washer

Full size whirlpool washers never had any belt tensioning system, it was one of the major faults of these machines.

The belt would eventually get loose from normal wear and tear, and they typically failed when it would go into spin and the belt was so loose that when the spin clutch engaged, the belt would just stop moving in the motor kept running and the motor pulley would burn through the belt and the belt, of course failed often with the smell of burning rubber.

Whirlpool washers never had any trouble with the clutch grabbing after 1968 when they went to the three pad clutch, before that they had considerable troubles with the clutch grabbing, which is why the change was made.

Other than that, you guys are overthinking this whole belt issue. It was a simply a loose belt, which was normal of course it wouldn’t hurt to put a new belt on it, but it’s not going to be necessary for many years.

Whirlpool made a big improvement in these belts in the 70s. They put polyester cord in them, which actually tended to shrink as it got hot sometimes lessening the need for belt tightening, and also reducing the failure rate of the belt.

The drive felt was often one of the most replaced parts on belt drive machines, but it was also not unusual to see a machine that was 20+ years old with the original belt on it, much like Maytag dependable care machines some of them burn belts out in the first year others went for 30 years or more with the same belt, depending on how heavily the machine was used of course.

John L
 
Unless the flat spot in the belt smooths itself out, I will replace it. If. That should stop the odd rhythmic noise from what is otherwise a very quiet and refined machine.

There is another high-pitched noise that is constant and I don’t know where that’s coming from or how to resolve it. Any ideas, based on this video:

View attachment IMG_3818.mov
 
Just a thought.....I wonder if it is the water pump. Did the sound surface upon the tightening of the belt? Does the sound change depending on agitation, draining or spinning? Otherwise, there's only the motor, gearcase or basket drive bearing.

-LP
 
The noise is present about 85% of the time during agitation, neutral drain and spin. Sometimes the noise just goes away randomly and then returns. It's exactly the same now as it was before I tightened the belt. I haven't yet managed to determine where it's coming from. I could certainly replace the motor if I can find a good one for sale.

I haven't seen any improvement so far in the belt's flat spot, so I will replace the belt if it doesn't sort itself out.

I have all the original documentation, receipts, service invoices, manuals and guides etc. The set was purchased at Sears in San Diego on March 14th, 1980 and was delivered to a newly-built home in San Marcos, where this set remained until it was purchased by a guy at an estate sale (I'm not sure when) and he stored them for several years until he sold them to me.

I was able to quickly and easily remove the agitator and inner basket -- they were not stuck at all! Here is the seller's photo of the set and some photos I took before I did any cleaning or even tested the washer with water.

It looks like the washer just needs to be cleaned up and the rusty parts taken care of.

Mark

Screenshot 2025-10-29 at 12.27.51.PNG1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg
 
Unless the flat spot in the belt smooths itself out, I will replace it. If. That should stop the odd rhythmic noise from what is otherwise a very quiet and refined machine.

There is another high-pitched noise that is constant and I don’t know where that’s coming from or how to resolve it. Any ideas, based on this video:

View attachment 321404
I honestly never like the design of those types of mechanisms with the constantly moving solenoids.
With the wiring harness wires constantly flexing back and forth.
To me, that's a built in weak spot regardless of how long they might last.
 
I honestly never like the design of those types of mechanisms with the constantly moving solenoids.
With the wiring harness wires constantly flexing back and forth.
To me, that's a built in weak spot regardless of how long they might last.
My Whirlpool was in service from 1963 to 2005, never a problem from what I could tell with the wires on the control magnet assembly. I had them in service from June of 2021 to April of 2022, not a problem with them either. Put them back into service in June of 2022 and were in service until 2023 (timer on the washer broke), not a hint of a problem. Put them back into service this June of 2025 and were out of service for a brief time in October (burned out wire on the dryer) but put them back into service shortly after and are still in service, again no problems with the wires to the control magnet assembly.

Since I exclusively use the low agitation with fast spin speed, will take wear and tear off of those wired and make them last a LONG time.
 
My Whirlpool was in service from 1963 to 2005, never a problem from what I could tell with the wires on the control magnet assembly. I had them in service from June of 2021 to April of 2022, not a problem with them either. Put them back into service in June of 2022 and were in service until 2023 (timer on the washer broke), not a hint of a problem. Put them back into service this June of 2025 and were out of service for a brief time in October (burned out wire on the dryer) but put them back into service shortly after and are still in service, again no problems with the wires to the control magnet assembly.

Since I exclusively use the low agitation with fast spin speed, will take wear and tear off of those wired and make them last a LONG time.
All good then!

However something like that still bothers me, those wires flexing around.
because copper wire wasn't designed to have to endure that type of agitation.. (pun intended)
 
Loose spelt on a whirlpool belt drive washer

Full size whirlpool washers never had any belt tensioning system, it was one of the major faults of these machines.

The belt would eventually get loose from normal wear and tear, and they typically failed when it would go into spin and the belt was so loose that when the spin clutch engaged, the belt would just stop moving in the motor kept running and the motor pulley would burn through the belt and the belt, of course failed often with the smell of burning rubber.
John L
I don't understand why machines like this didn't employ a spring-loaded tensioner idler pulley.
Cars used them....
My Maytag dryer uses one....
And of course, my Maytag washer uses spring-loaded sliding motor mount...
It's such a cheap part to design in, and prevent belt slipping.
 
Funny. I was talking with that guy and he kept telling me his MIL was in the hospital etc and that he was holding them for me. Then two weeks later I get a SOLD item notification from Offer up. 🙄
 
Matt, old cars without a serpentine belt didn't have a tensioner. Once you tightened down the sliding mounts, they were fixed. WP used a beefy toothed belt.
Delco automotive distributors had wires that moved as timing advanced and retarded by the centrifugal springs. WP had to put the wig wag solenoids where they could actuate the sliding bars for the clutch and pump shift lever. The design was a challenge for engineers, but it was ingenious.
 
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Quite a few automatic washers with V belt drives did not have an automatic tensioner, such as General Electric.

I had mentioned in a previous post that it would’ve been nice if they had had an automatic tensioner.

The possible flat spot in the belt is really a burned spot from the motor turning when the belt did not, I’ve never seen a belt dry whirlpool flat spot maybe just for a very initial time when you first started it up after it sat for many years, but the flat spots would quickly go away, but I think you really have a burden spot in the belt Mark.

John L
 
Matt, old cars without a serpentine belt didn't have a tensioner. Once you tightened down the sliding mounts, they were fixed. WP used a beefy toothed belt.
Delco automotive distributors had wires that moved as timing advanced and retarded by the centrifugal springs. WP had to put the wig wag solenoids where they could actuate the sliding bars for the clutch and pump shift lever. The design was a challenge for engineers, but it was ingenious.
Yes, I'm familier with those wig-wag transmissions.
My first apartment in 1979 had an old late-50s RCA/Whirlpool toploader in the basement that I had to do a little servicing on.
It had that black bakelite agitator with the silver cap.
 
The possible flat spot in the belt is really a burned spot from the motor turning when the belt did not, I’ve never seen a belt dry whirlpool flat spot maybe just for a very initial time when you first started it up after it sat for many years, but the flat spots would quickly go away, but I think you really have a burden spot in the belt Mark.

John L

Thanks, John. I've ordered a new belt. I'll replace the belt, clean up the machine and treat the rust and then take it from there. I don't plan on removing the outer tub or disturbing any of the seals.

Would it be a good idea to apply a rubberized coating over the tub seal and the surrounding tub lip and shaft to prevent possible future leaks? There is currently no evidence of leaking anywhere.
 
Funny. I was talking with that guy and he kept telling me his MIL was in the hospital etc and that he was holding them for me. Then two weeks later I get a SOLD item notification from Offer up. 🙄
Oh Scott I'm sorry to hear that. I first messaged him on Nov 6th and heard nothing. So I messaged again 5 days later and he replied saying he'd been out of town. I collected the machines on Nov 15th. I had no idea he'd previously agreed to hold them for you.
 
Oh Scott I'm sorry to hear that. I first messaged him on Nov 6th and heard nothing. So I messaged again 5 days later and he replied saying he'd been out of town. I collected the machines on Nov 15th. I had no idea he'd previously agreed to hold them for you.
Oh it’s okay, it just goes to show you can’t trust what people say out there. If you get tired of them let me know! 😃
 
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