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While I was diverted on the dryer effort, some more parts have arrived. The tub and base plate are back now with their powder coating completed. Here is one of the primary reasons for taking this route. This is the main drain pipe, again protected from further rusting. For how long? Time...

Outside, the patching is much larger because the original vent was in place before the stucco went on. At least two more stucco batches will have to me mixed up too, and look how damp that first one still looks after a full day to dry. Will take a while in this winter weather, but easy to do...

While waiting for the last of the parts to arrive, I decided to have a look inside the dryer also. About all it seemed to need was cleaning out thirty years of dust and lint buildup. It is a model DG303 and I am regularly watching eBay every few days hoping to locate a service manual. After...

And it goes in place with ease. leave the hose clamps loose till the nozzle housing is fastened in place and then the clamps can be tightened with no strain on the hose sections.

The so-called water injector system is next on the list. Notice the old system had most hose clamps in the single band style which we have seen earlier, and still wonder at how they went on. Only one of the clamps was a screw style, which allowed for adjusting the hose orientation at that...

This is a new set of outer tub mounting bolts with sealing washers. Both long and short bolts are still available, with the short one in the middle here. The real story though is the sealing washers. My old ones were so hardened they looked more like polyurethane. These new washers are...

Here, with the brake rotor bearing we find a somewhat more limited choice. The 30 year old MAYTAG bearing actually still seems sound enough to me. It is tight, smooth and looks well made indeed. And, this is not a common bearing size but rather it is a special Maytag bearing. The item inside...

A Tale of Three Bearings. So turning my attention to the bearings and their condition/replacements, we look first at the most heavily loaded bearing in the washer, the radial or spin bearing. At the top here is the original bearing, made by the respected Japanese firm NTN. It is a common...

I had hoped though to take the new unit apart before mounting it, and satisfy my curiosity about what a new friction liner looks like. The other thing I wondered about was how much, if any oil was inside the new units when they ship out. From looking there at the oily surface in the center of...

Brian's recommendation to go back and change the motor carriage lubricant from molykote to pure silicone got me thinking. I finally remembered the photo on Brian's washer overhaul site dealing with the motor carriage and went back for another look. Sure enough, in the background is a jar of...

Yes, that pure silicone grease isn't that easy to find, unless you have a scuba/dive shop nearby. I got that jar from amazon.

I suppose that is enough fun for now, with the control panel parts. Put the switches back where they belong, and hope they continue to perform as they have done these last 30 years.

If we peer inside through one of the case holes it is possible to watch that second gear in the train make is periodic advances. At exactly one minute intervals it advances by six gear cogs, as seen through the case hole.

It does however, allow us to easily operate and observe the action of this little motor. Here it is running while a drop or two of turbine oil have gravity in their favor getting lubrication to the shaft. While watching it you will be perhaps surprised at the slow speed of that pinion gear...

This looks like a dangerous toy does it not? And, certainly we must maintain our concentration when messing about with such a tool.

Grease lube was only used on the flat surface of the metal plate, upon which the gears reside. I also greased the axis shafts and the holes where they fit in. Silicone grease being used for this as I have confidence it will do no harm to the plastic parts.

Yesterday was cleanup day for the timer switch, and today shall be lubrication. That spray can is a product of Sherwin-Williams, the paint people. Its lubricating ingredient is polytetrafluoroethylene. That is a real mouthful, so SW refers to it as P.T.F.E. Polytetrafluoroethylene is also...

Will now allow the timer to air out and completely dry from the kerosene. Tomorrow I will lubricate it again with silicone spray generally, and grease for the gears.

After it came out, I blew it out well and from every orifice I could find, using compressed air. And it really does seem clean as a whistle.

Don't believe it would have occurred to me to try this, had I not read Brian's thread. But here goes, in a high tech kerosene bath and completely submerged to soak a while. Later I used a small brush and removed all the old lubricants. Also pulled out the timer shaft and ran it through all...