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This water valve also came out today, getting the cabinet ready for attention. I hadn't thought much about the valve before now, as it seemed to still be working OK. It looks like its best years are behind it though, doesn't it. That small hose clamp is too rusted up to come off, so I just...

And while taking the top cover apart, I came upon this bonus. There can be seen a wiring diagram for my model, where it has been taped in for all these years.

Thanks DigAPony, but I cannot locate anywhere in this metropolis a firm offering porcelain enamel refinishing. So I am going ahead with powder coating. We don't expect to remove the existing porcelain where it is sound, but only etch is with the bead blasting then coat over it. The rust can...

This is what it looks like from inside the tub. I have come around to thinking that the only acceptable thing to do is bead blast the entire thing, inside and out. And I mean the entire tub. That old finish was a baked on enamel by the looks of it, and I am thinking that it will soon have a...

Well, it actually looks better after the useless end is cut away. But I cannot just clean it up and expect it to be good-to-go. It will have to be really completely cleaned of rust and coated inside and out with a surface will protect it from further oxidation. What to do?

And this will do. Here is the drain pipe of the outer tub, looking worse for wear. There seems enough length remaining for attaching a hose, but how sound is this pipe???

Weld it in - grind it smooth- and move on to the next issue.

So, start by hammering out a patch to the contours needed, place it in position and scribe the edge pattern onto the tub, then cut out to match.

Whatever is to be done, the first step must be to clean it back till reaching good sound metal. And, this step takes me past all the aforementioned ideas. It will have to be a butt welded patch of steel.

And now for something really ugly! This is the lip of the outer tub. At this location was one of the two clamps for that stainless V-band which secures the tub seal. I start wondering about how to deal with this. Sure cannot just order a new outer tub. How bout brazing, or silver solder, or...

Starting in 1986 when I bought this washer, MAYTAG switched from using an O ring located inside the transmission case (up near the nylon pinion in previous image) to a lip seal fitted right at the end of the lower case leg. The seal has a steel sleeve inside that plastic cover, and by means of...

I went through the transmission in order to satisfy myself that there were no obvious problems with any of the gears. They all look good. I can see slight wear on both the pinions, and would like to use new clutch washers - but we have already discussed that. So it will be just a cleaning...

The old mounting stem on the right looks to be a far higher quality part than the new unit on the left. It must be changed, of course, but the new stem uses a cheap rubber lip seal, unlike that nice original seal, which was spring loaded against the washer and retained by the wire clip. That...

Here the parts have been cleaned and I am inspecting the brake friction lining. It is only about 2 MM thick, at the spot I have the ruler on. I am working on finding a manual for this model A112, but without success thus far. So I don't know what the practical limit might be. All the rest of...

While I certainly do not have the experience (none) to start in on a step-by-step how-to on this washer, I would like to post a few photos along the way in hopes that more experienced eyes may catch my errors before they become real problem issues. I have the machine completely apart now and...

Well that question did sort of answer itself when I started building up the transmission. After screwing down the pinion to the shaft, neither of the available pin holes would prevent the screw from backing off a bit. That is the slack I noticed during strip-down and seems normal to me now...

HI I am in the middle of overhauling the transmission on the MAYTAG from 1986. I had hoped to replace the input pinion bearing, which is made of nylon, and its two clutch washers. None of the items are available from MAYTAG so I will have to reuse the originals. My question regards the screw...