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Ok, good news. The fan, compressor and condenser fan just shut off. Exactly 0*F inside the freezer compartment.

What about a 358277 valve?

Yes, side by side, two door.

single compressor, condenser fan, variable evap fan and a damper. I think there are 3 temp sensors, one on the evap, one in the freezer and one in the fresh food compartment. I can't find the tech sheet.

Right now its keep great temps, but the evap fan is running on high almost 24/7. The main board has never been replaced. If its the control board I'd change it. My only concern is it could be the sealed system and I don't want to throw more money at it than I have to.

GE and Whirlpool is my vote at this point as well. Not sure which of the two to pick. I am leaning toward Whirlpool, unless anyone can sell me on GE for a good reason.

Kind of clueless on this. If you had to buy new double door fridge, which brand and model would you choose today? Which is the longest lasting? Fewest repairs? Least amount of electronics? Anything else worth considering or that you like?

OMG how I wish most people in this world were like myself even though it is not considered socially acceptable to make such a statement in this reality. This is to much for me to handle. The owner of that home is both triggering me and then killing me. I'd give anything to move into a home...

This. I would never own a front load washer without a heater. Water becomes to cool once it cycle starts even when set to a hot wash and relying on an external water heater uses tremendous amounts of energy. US front load washers are not practical and will never produce the results EU machines do.

Just ordered a Taylor and will come after that.

Looks like one or both thermometers are off. :(

Well, I think I might have at least one defective thermometer. One is showing -10, the other 7*F. -15*F might actually be around 0*F.

I am going to put the other thermometer in the freezer to see if there is any major discrepancy. Theoretically, how low can a residential R134A fridge freezer system go if forced to run to its limits?

A belted VMW does not have a reduction of 4 between the motor and tub. 1625 / 4 = 406.25. I don't know of any VMW that spins around 400 rpm on high. 2.5 is more accurate.

Can me fridge display actual temps? I am not sure what mine is capable of.

Assuming this 20 year old thermometer is accurate, I'm getting temps at -22*F and below. Is this optimal or to low? What is a good bandwidth?

I have it at 8 & 7 which I find the most optimal. Though bear in mind the fridge was made by Garbage Electric, so, those numbers might be a bit arbitrary relative to what is low, medium and high.

Update: The condenser is clean and air flow is better. And while it helped originally, the fan has been stuck on high speed these past 2.5 hours. Fridge is around 35*F mid shelf, freezer is dipping down to -15*F. Its cooling but the fan has me going paranoid something is about to give out.

Ok, so I vacuumed out the condenser and it seems to have helped- for the most part. I still had one instance of the fan switching to high. Hopefully its just the fridge coming out of defrost or something. I hope its not a refrigerant leak- the high pressure line leaving the compressor was very...

Sounds like I'm lucky or at least I am in this point in time. 2007 all the way until now is a good run.