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Whirlpool WTW4816FW3 lid lock strike… Part number is W10837741. It can be purchased through a wide variety of retailers. I have linked an E-Bay listing of a brand new OEM strike. I’ve bought from the seller before and had no issues. Hope this helps, Thatwasherguy...

Hey everyone! Thought I’d share a quick and easy zucchini recipe with you all that I have been making for quite some time now. Enjoy! Thatwasherguy. Ingredients: 3 to 4 zucchini Shredded cheese Olive oil Italian seasoning Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 375*F. 2. Wash zucchini before slicing...

With the matching RBB-100 cooktop, complete with literature. Granny had the stylistically-updated 1961 versions in coppertone. Granny’s kitchen was one of the things that first sparked my interest in vintage appliances, so I found it fitting to post these here. Enjoy! Thatwasherguy...

Congrats!! That machine looks like it’s in immaculate condition considering it’s age. With a little maintenance, it’ll probably run for many years to come. Beautiful color, too. Thatwasherguy.

Maranoman... That’s EXACTLY what my 1978 Maytag does! I’ve read the service manual on the transmission several times, and those washers are the only thing I can think of causing the issue. It seemed to subside whenever the drive pulley was tightened beyond specification. However, this caused...

Congrats on getting the machine running!! As for the pitman transmission, I would definitely suggest diving into it. I rebuilt the one on my 1978 Maytag in about a day. Yours may take longer given that it was experiencing issues, however. If at all possible, avoid removing the metal gear...

Lowest oven temperatures… Both of my ovens go down to 170*F. The 2006 Frigidaire range uses a simple up or down selection that stops at 170, while the 2022 Frigidaire wall oven displays the pictured error message any time a temperature below 170 is selected. The wall oven starts picking up...

From the picture… It appears to be an HA806, from around 1972-74.

Letting go of a vintage washer... I'm sorry to hear that you are having to replace it. Before you get rid of it, you may want to save some parts, especially the console with the timer and switches. These are discontinued, and could be worth some pretty good money on Ebay. I would also save...

YAY!! Glad to hear you got it all finished up. Hopefully, now that you've replaced the majority of the consumable parts, it will be able to run for another 30+ years, as that machine is about as close to new as a washer from the 80's can get! Thatwasherguy.

Congrats on the machine! I had a very similar machine from 1988 for a few months, and it worked like an absolute charm. As far as the smell goes, I second the hot wash with bleach idea. If you have the space, you could even hook up both machines and solve your capacity issues. Thatwasherguy.

A little late to the party... But here I am! I've always loved 80's cars too. My grandma on my dad's side had a 1988 Toyota corolla DX in medium metallic blue. I can still remember the roaring groan of the 90 horsepower 4-AF 1.6 liter 16 valve engine struggling to run the Air Conditioner...

Congrats on your new ride! That thing is STUNNING! Someone took great care of that beauty. I think I see an AC condenser with lines in the pic under the hood. Does it still work, and if so, does it still run R-12? If so, I bet that thing becomes a refrigerator when set to max AC...

Sounds like a tub bearing failure... This is most often caused by a failing tub seal. You can still get both parts aftermarket, although only the bearing is available OEM. The tub seal is part number 6-2095720, and the bearing is part number 6-2040130. You may even be able to temporarily get...

Congrats on your house! I know of someone who has one of these from 1989 under the Kenmore name. According to the model number, it was originally sold as a Kelvinator. It is very similar to yours, except it has push button controls and a console backlight. Some years ago, I did a science...

Congratulations! Looks like you're making some great progress! As for the tub bearing, the difference is the fact that the old one has an oil wick on it, while the new one lacks this feature. Both styles are completely interchangeable with one another. As for the tub rust, I would advise...

Impressive! Looks like whoever’s in charge of buying the laundry equipment for the company has great taste. I don’t think I’ve seen the stacked units with the pre-2018 residential style control panel on them before. I don’t think I’ve seen the glass dryer doors either. One of those would be...

You may not even need the mounting screw... My Maytag washer from 1978 didn’t have any sort of mounting screw from the factory. Instead, the agitator is held in place by friction created by some grease on the splines. I think the load sensor has the side mount screw, though. If worst comes...

Over amping occurs whenever an electric motor draws more current than it is rated for. This leads to it overheating if it occurs for any serious length of time. To check amp draw, you can do a couple of things. The first is to buy a multimeter with an amp clamp built in. Clamp the amp clamp...

Just saw your updated post… It sounds like your motor may be over-amping. According to my service manual, your motor shouldn’t draw more than 6.0 amps continuously during agitation, 6.5 amps continuously during the acceleration into spin, and 6.0 amps continuously at full speed in spin. Hope...