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I would recommend adding a 3-prong plug. I connected the ground wire to the motor housing inside. Regarding the drain hose connection - there were two elbow connections offered. The attached photos show the more complicated one with the clean-out screw, as compared with the basic elbow. Once...

Restoration in the works? If you're considering a full restoration, perhaps you might like to see the results of my restoration of a 1940 Model 32. Lots more pics in the album on Flickr (link attached). Please feel free to ask any questions...

I really like the look of this Blackstone's agitator. Does anybody in the club have one of these machines?

Hey Barry ... no, it's not reverse-threaded. Obviously corroded on there pretty tightly. If you bend the hose down and squirt some WD-40 onto the threads, that might work, and keep the stuff away from the rubber.

Not bad shape at all... compared with many others I've seen. Regarding the agitator control knob - hmmm...that's a bit of a mystery. The only thing I can think of is that the cotter pin has come out of the linkage to the power unit. Check to see if it's present. If not, mystery solved...

Don't fret none! I transported mine in the back of a sedan with no problem. Of course, removing the wringer is necessary. If you don't know already, you turn the wringer control lever so that it's sticking out (180 degrees from the "Off" position) and then it's ready to lift out. If, by chance...

Pics of different hose nozzles... just to clarify that there are two different nozzles, the one on the left for a pump model, and the right for gravity drain. The gooseneck would not sit properly on the right hand version. The J2L pictured shows the gravity drain hose.

Nozzle on hose end looks like that for a pump model... although it appears to be missing the gooseneck, unless it's inside the tub. If you're curious, perhaps you can ask the seller for another pic of the right side of the machine, to see the pump lever at the bottom of the skirt. BTW - Happy...

Manufacturer's plate present? I would suggest checking one of the legs, or the skirt below the tub for a manufacturer's plate. At first glance, I thought it was a Universal (manufactured by Landers Frary and Clark (New Britain, CT.)

And the date of manufacture is... June 1933. Definitely a Model 10. Regarding that hole with grommet - would it not be for the electric cord?

Your work cut out for you! That's starting to become an impressive collection! A lot of work in front of you, if you plan on doing full restorations. But such satisfying work it is! Look on the bottom of the skirt and I believe you'll find the serial number (or perhaps on one of the legs.)...

Maybe next year ... Hey Jerry...thanks for posting the pics! Imagine you all had a fun weekend. Perhaps one year I will make the trek across the country and join you! Haven't been to Pittsburgh yet, so maybe...

Attn. Mikeyd --- pump operation I've uploaded a video to YouTube showing the pump in operation. Not as strong as a Maytag, but still a good pump.

Original, yes... that oval decal is the real thing. If you refer to Kevin Fisher's info on the Maytag Collectors Club website, you can see which decals were original to various years and models.

Great find! Hey Martin...nice to get an update. First off, good to hear you were not adversely impacted by the wild weather. Second - wow, again! Another bargain found! Sometimes I think you guys in the mid-west are lucky to have so many of the old machines still available in close proximity...

Gary... Just sent you an email.

Decals... Check with Kevin Fisher in Ohio ... follow the link and go to the "Restoration Info" tab on the left side. The authentic decal for the front of the tub is no longer available (although it has showed up on ebay). I was able to get one for my first Model 30 restoration, but subsequent...

The gasket between the tub and power unit can be made Karropak paper gasket by Felpro. The gasket for the power unit halves can be made from 3/32" cork gasket sheeting from Felpro. If you do get into opening up the power unit and changing the grease, be mindful of a couple of things: - thickness...

Firstly - the serial number and date of manufacture... Hello again, Martin, According to my manual, E-series serial numbers 602700-617459 were produced in February 1935. Now for parts --- 1). The pins for the bearing hangers (yes, that's what they're called!) had small c-shaped clips. Later...

To answer some questions... @rpms Brian, this is a "keeper"! The farm museum gifted it to me as appreciation for my volunteer work. They were culling the collection. Regarding price point - I imagine this was mid-range, especially considering the pump. @MIKEYD Mike, the pump is not as...