Search results

Close up of the damper pads. The prior owner mentioned replacing these, but I'm not sure how long ago that was done. There is a section where the pad is missing (or perhaps just a gap from where they were installed), but it looks like the surrounding pads were thick enough to compensate - I...

Here's the base plate. I haven't cleaned it at all in this picture, so at least some of what looks like rust is lint/detergent/debris buildup. I'll keep this for sure for future projects - likely swapping it and a two-speed motor into the A408 when I do the eventual A806 conversion.

Here is what remained of the upper seal on the agitator shaft. The rubber and the spring were both destroyed. (They were like this inside the stem - the spring was in pieces before it was removed.) That half-missing flat washer in the upper left corner of the photo - does anyone recognize...

A few more pictures - the spin tube has some heavy scoring on it, so it's been running dry for a while. A lot of crud buildup too, both of which are mirrored on the inside of the outer bushing as well. The agitator shaft isn't the worst I've seen, but I'll have to wire brush it to see what is...

Thanks guys. I've been trying to figure it out - do you think the damaged water pump, perhaps much earlier in its life, might have been a contributor to its demise? I'm wondering if the machine became incapable of fully pumping out the water, basically leaving water (and detergent and debris)...

The serial number plate started off on the back of the machine, then moved to its spot under the lid later in production. That's actually another clue which helps narrow down the date for your machine. More info in my thread here: "Maytag serial number plate location?"...

Ah, ok! I hadn't realized that they (the knob and dial) didn't change at the same time!

Dan, unless I'm mistaken, the "early" timer dial might have held on later than that? There's some info in Ben's thread "Documented Maytag A806 Series 1 & Series 2 changes": https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?22010 ... which seems to indicate that the A106 kept the...

On the Maytag, you should be able to just reach in and spin the inner tub by hand. Underneath, you could pop the water pump belt off if you wanted, and spin the water pump by hand... but don't run the motor electrically without belts on, as the spring-loaded carriage will pull it until the...

If you take a photo of the serial number tag, that would positively determine its age. Maytag coded the year and month of production as the two letters after the serial number.

Did the metal blower wheels spin slower? Or did they just move more air from the higher fin count? Good score on the control panel! I presume since you didn't come home with the fluorescent sockets or the tub light socket that the machine had been pretty well stripped for parts? If an...

Finally the transmission was free...

Out came the puller again to remove the inner bearing race. This was too far of a reach for my small puller, and the large puller barely grabbed the lip of the race, but it worked. The socket over the input shaft is what I should have done the prior time I used the puller. I don't know why I...

... and here is why it was stuck. The large bearing is just completely destroyed. It was rusted/seized to the brake, the inner race seized to the transmission housing, and what was left of the cage was a mangled mess rattling around inside and the balls free to go wherever they pleased. The...

Then from here is where things went sideways. After removing the lock bolt and clip, I was able to hammer (with great effort) the brake package removal tool enough to get it to turn. But the brake just wouldn't come free from the transmission. Persuasion from the sides didn't work either -...

Motor, pump, and transmission pulley removed. It's interesting to me that Maytag gave the half-moon cutout so the water pump could be removed without removing the pulley, yet required the pulley removal for the motor? The set screw on the motor pulley took a 2' cheater pipe on my Allen...

A peek inside the water pump. My phone shot isn't great, but I'm not sure there are any fins (vanes?) that were not damaged. A number of them were missing entirely. So this wasn't pumping nearly as well as it should have been. This pump is old enough to be of the split type, so I'll pull...

On to the bottom. A ring of greasy dust around the inner perimeter, and the feet need replacement, but otherwise in good shape down here. The belt has been in one position for a while judging by the shape.

Yeah, and I don't know how you would ever know without taking it all apart like this?

The stem also refused to come off the normal way. The setscrew, once I found it, was stuck tight enough that the hex end rounded out before it came loose, so I drilled it out. I ended up using a Dremel to score it, then the cold chisel again to smash pieces of it off until it finally came free.