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If curious, here is how the control panel would look. Soak takes up a larger part of the cycle time, so the wash, rinse and final spin are moved closer together on the left side of the dial. The timer is 82 minutes for a full revolution.

Pierre, what do you think? From the start of the first agitate to the start of wash agitate I got 40 minutes of soak intermittent agitation in.

Fixed a few errors in the wiring diagram, my apologies for the initial mistakes. Here is the cycle selection switching matrix: Orange and Purple wires from the timer are energized during the wash fill, white and blue are energized during the rinse fill. Pierre, how many knobs are ideal...

This thread is painful with longing! How I wish they still made these dishwashers today in various models. I'd never buy or use anything else, these were perfected. Everything that came after is a bit of a joke.

I'd ask a repair tech. Either that the cap or agi isn't molded perfectly and it was forced in.

Complicated, but I guess so then. I like the vintage GE version with the cold spray rinse in the first spin.

So if anyone is interested here are the fill times to full with my water pressure and plumbing: Hot= 4:31 Warm = 2:58 Cold = 4:23

Pierre, you've gotten me thinking again. What temperature to give the permanent press cycle. Perhaps I should go back to labeling it white perms and color perms. Or just have permanent press default to warm/cold and name hot/cold to sheets or something. Hot/cold is a rather elusive temperature...

The view that you see is with the front cabinet removed as starting at 1:05 below: The actually rear of the machine where hoses are attached does not have any exposed wires or components.

Ok, that is good to know. In that case there should be a hex nut once the cap pops off. I can't think of anything different or why the cap would be glued on. Unless Whirlpool changed something which I doubt but I could be wrong...

Here are the component locations: There is an air dome and hose on the left side of the tub for the over-fill pressure switch and a air dome and hose on the right side of the tub for the user selectable water level switch.

No electronics. Here is what the wring diagram would looks like for the machine in post #3 (cap value is generic, 125uF for 120 volt models, 35 uF for 240 volt models):

Here is probably a better version: Heavy is hot/warm Normal is warm/warm Perms is hot / cold Casual is warm /cold Delicate defaults everything to cold/cold What do you think?

I've always hated how cluttered and over-labelled that knob wash. In fact this is probably my least favorite Whirlpool control panel style. However, with fewer lettering its not bad at all. Pierre, are you thinking something like this? Same model with status light: What cycles and...

To be frank a new Sharp commercial microwave might outperform your existing unit. Repair parts are also plentiful for the R21 series.

I don't recall comparable dependable cares being less expensive than comparable Performas when they were being sold.

That is your best bet. You can't go wrong with a multi speed direct drive and ATC.

IIRC, the orbital transmission had a plastic drive gears.

And that microwave isn't just a consumer grade Sharp microwave, it is a genuine commercial sharp microwave. It is one the best and one of the most even heating microwaves ever produced. The R21LCFS series is one of the most popular, most produced microwaves in the food service world running over...

Have you considered a new microwave? This model is the best, most even heating unit you can buy with power levels and step cooking...