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Made in October of 1984. Belt drive, nice machine!

Yes, you have to remove the spacer and the transmission support brackets but you don't have to loosen the other two transmission bolts and lower the transmission.

So here's a basic diagram of the drive train. Just remove the clutch spring, lever up the brake yoke, pull the spin cam bar back out from the clutch shaft (you'll have to swing the motor out of the way) and then drop the shaft to get the belt on.

Yes, the easier way is to lever up the brake yoke, pull the spin cam bar and drop the clutch shaft. I've always done it that way, much easier than lowering the transmission. I'll see if I can find a diagram or photo.

VMW is belt drive, uses a shift actuator to activate a splutch (splined clutch) to switch between agitate and spin. Agitation is achieved by constantly switching direction of drive motor rotation. Drain is by electric pump. Everything controlled by electronic control board. Transmission is a...

Open the control panel and unplug the moisture sensor control board. Check resistance between the two red wires of the connector. These go to the sensor bars and should read open (infinity). If your getting a resistance reading, then clean the bars and check again. If you still get resistance...

What is the model number of the dryer?

Here's a good article on the use of plastic gears including use in washing machine transmissions. This is a PDF file...

Well, the ubiquitous Whirlpool direct drives only spin at about 650rpm as does my 13 year old GE and they get the water out just fine.

What is the model number? If it's a direct drive, you should put the shipping pins back in to prevent the suspension plate and tub support from shifting all around.

That is exactly what you said. I quote again: "Dryers that have Auto Dry without a moisture sensor use a thermostat that cycles off the heating element when it reaches a temp. that has been set to determine that the load is dry" How can a thermostat temp be set to determine that the load is...

"I said that the timer moves when the proper temp is reached. It stops when the temp drops and the heater is engaged. Jeesh some people. ;-)" I wasn't replying to your post, I was disputing washman's post that stated, "And mind you, this is a thermostat dryer, no moisture sensor like the new...

Make sure it's level. Check the counterweight spring, #15. Sometimes the lower attachment hole rusts out. If that is the case, drill a new hole and reattach the spring. Check the three horizontal tub springs, #3. Check the alignment of the suspension plate, #17, (skate plate). Could also be a...

Moisture sensors are not used to adjust the heat, they are used to adjust the drying time.

That's because it's over 12 years old. Whirlpool changed the location of the lid switch circuit in their DD's around 2003. All DD models since then have the lid switch in the motor neutral circuit or the machine L1 line circuit (on load sense models) which means with the lid open, the drive...

No direct drive model made in about the last 12 years will agitate with the lid up. For older models that will agitate with the lid up, closing the lid after agitation stops should not interfere with neutral drain. If it does, that's just a quirk of your machine.

Did you let it agitate and go into drain on it's own? The washer must agitate for a few seconds in order for the neutral drain mechanism to be "set", then when it switches to drain, it should go into neutral and drain without spinning. It's no big deal if it isn't working but does put a little...

The water inlet valve assembly does not have a thermistor, it's a bi-metal contact that limits the hot water temp to probably around 110 degrees. If you want true hot water, disconnect the yellow/black wire from the valve assembly.

You don't really need to clean the insulators (white ceramic), just the metal threaded studs, nuts and washers. A wire brush attachment on a dremel tool works great for that. Take the drum support off and remove the drum and you will have full access for cleaning out all the lint.

Yes, you should clean up those heater terminals and associated hardware. Typically, when they get corroded, the wire terminal overheats causing the wire to overheat and eventually burn in half. That's why I was betting on that as your problem as that is a common problem on these old dryers. The...