1955 GE Fridge compressor running non-stop

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oldschoolmeg

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2020
Messages
15
Location
Kentucky
Hello everyone, second time posting on here. You guys are my last hope since all my leads are coming up dry and no refrigeration techs want to help me out.

I have a 1955 LH-12 GE refrigerator with a compressor that does not stop running. Fridge cabinet temps range from 32-40 deg with freezer around 18 deg. Not sure why the freezer isn't getting to correct temperature, that might be due to same unseen issue. Here are the obvious things I have checked and corrected so far:

Recharged with R-12
Checked all door gaskets for leaks
Inspected for obvious leaks or restrictions
Thermostat is good I guess since there is no signs of freezing food.

I'm going to attach some pictures so you can identify the fridge and some potential issues.

First things first, when I plugged it back in after recharging it the compressor ran super loud. It seriously sounded like a powerwasher running. It runs like this for a while then quiets down. This is obviously concerning since when I first got it the compressor ran relatively quietly. Another point of possible interest is that there is no frost pattern on the evaporator coil right as it comes in the cabinet (there's a picture for reference). Possible restriction? Not sure since I do not know the symptoms of a restriction. I also don't know what a "bad" compressor sounds like, but that very well could be the problem. I can't get anyone to come out and run a vacuum test on it so I don't know for sure.

What does anyone make of this? Like I said above, the main issues are that the compressor never shuts off and the freezer temp isn't low enough. If I can find out what's wrong with it I might just haul this thing all the way to Alabama for Antique Appliance to fool with.

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One thing I noticed right away is the frost accumulation on the serpentine coil in the fresh food section.  The only time my '57 GE Combination had that much frost on the coil was when the cold control had finally failed and the fridge wouldn't shut off.  Otherwise, no actual frost ever accumulated on the coil -- just a thin layer of ice that left the actual coil 100% visible.  During normal cycling, there isn't enough time for a layer of white frost to develop.

 

The frost makes sense on your fridge since it's running continuously, but the uneven coating of frost does seem to indicate a problem.  Since I believe you stated that the fridge was working fine before you hauled it home, it seems something got disturbed along the way.  I've provided a link to a thread that our refrigeration expert David (turbokinetic) launched to chronicle what appears to be a '57 GE wall-mount refrigerator revival.  Since a wall-mount model is roughly similar to a Combination on its side, there might be some information that you can use in trying to diagnose what's wrong with yours.

 

I think we can all agree that no refrigerator should ever sound like a power washer, so something is certainly amiss.  GE Combinations like yours were manufactured to be seen, not heard.

 
Update

As I was typing this previous post out I had turned my fridge back on to see if anything had changed from before. When I plugged it back in it sounded normal. After a few minutes though it started back to the super loud compressor running noise. Like I said above, it sounds like a gas-powered pressure washer. I'll link a youtube video I took to really show what it sounds like. I really started to get concerned when the evap coils didn't get cold at all like they were doing before. They were room temp the whole time I had it on (about an hour). The worst part is that it shut off about 45min unprompted. It definitely wasn't cold enough to shut off as the coils were not cold at all. It stayed off for 5min then tried to start back. I heard the relay run a few times and then it died. It ended up starting back up a little bit later seemingly fine, though it was still somewhat loud. I unplugged after that figuring there was a more major issue than I had before.

Could it be overcharged? It was almost like the compressor was unable to push the refrigerant up through the system like before. Like that since being unplugged for a few weeks it had pooled in the compressor and since there was too much it just couldn't push it anymore. But I'm not sure as I am no expert.

 
John,

That is what I'm thinking as well. I will be calling around even further out from where I'm located to see if I can get someone to do that for me. I am willing to load this fridge back up and take it to them if need be.

Does anyone know of any fridge guys around the KY, OH, IN areas? I'm near Louisville KY but everyone I have called so far has said no. I've probably called almost everyone in my area.
 
CALL THE MAN AUNT BEE !!

Meg,

May I suggest you call Antique Appliance in Clayton GA at 706-782-3132. They are familiar with your fridge which has a tricky refrigerant splitter valve behind the top rear panel. Having some HVAC guy pumping r-12 with just a hint of air or moisture mixed in can be real trouble for those old units. Perhaps they have an expert refrigeration customer/mechanic close to you that they could recommend . Good Luck--Joe
 
Can these refrigerators be "converted" like car AC w

I thought R12 was banned by an international treaty and maybe with a new compressor an R134a conversion might be possible.  I also read that the springs inside the compressor case can break from metal fatigue when the refrigerator is moved, causing the loud sound.  Thus, it really is not a good idea to move an old refrigerator at all.  Meanwhile, the manufacturers get away with shipping new refrigerators because metal fatigue has not happened yet.  
 
Meg; it sounds to me like the system is overcharged, and/ or possibly restricted. The rattle is caused by excess head-pressure. Also the stalling and failing to re-start is also a symptom of this.

It may be too late for the compressor if it's been run like this for a long time. Many of these have already had a replacement GE compressor installed in the past, which would be somewhat more reliable than the original one. If it is one of the newer ones, it would be worth trying to keep it if you want to keep the original sound of the machine.

Regardless, it would minimum need a new filter/drier and probably capillary tube.

Often the charge amount shown on the nameplate is a theoretical maximum and a charge of significantly less is optimal. One more thing, there are a lot of supposed R12 substitutes with "12" in the name which were intended for automotive A/C systems. They are wholly unsuitable for these fridges. If you aren't 100% sure it was real R12 you may have been bitten by one of those substitutes.

Sincerely,
David
 
Thank you :)

Thank you everyone for taking the time to read my post and reply! I will be following up with all of your suggestions. I have found someone that is willing to help in Corydon IN. I will call the people in Fort Wayne as well to have a backup plan if this guy doesn’t work out. I will be taking the fridge up there sometime next week. I will update you all on what he says but I’m thinking it will be what y’all are saying; possible bad compressor. We will see.
 
Know when to throw in the towel

A number of years ago I had a cosmetically beautiful 55 Crosley Shelvador. After about 10 years of maintenance free service, it began to have issues similarly to what your GE has. I was determined to get it operational so I contacted someone seemingly reputable who came to pick up the refrigerator, bring it back to his workshop and restore it “good as new.”

When I got it back after 2 months, it ran non stop and was loud. The repair person told to get a rubber mat and that would absorb the sound. It also seemed to have the same issues as before. The repair person, who I will not name as they are part of this forum, stopped returning my calls but of course took my money.

The Crosley was officially dead and in its place, I found a beautiful 1957 Frigidaire- 10 minutes from my house, and it was $60.
 
Gary, I'm sorry you had that bad experience. It is sometimes very difficult for a person to find the root cause of a problem with these very old fridges. I do this as a hobby only. Because I'm not pressured with time constraints and overhead I have learned to let any repair run for a month or two before considering it successful. In other words, I want to see it run correctly for a month or two before having someone spend their time / money transporting it or before selling it and then having to take it back if it fails.

This is a very difficult situation when you are in business repairing appliances. You just can't predict every failure no matter how much detail you go into with testing and measuring every parameter. But the time and space to keep things for an extra month may not be possible. Yours would have needed to stay at the shop for another 2 months if the technician followed my principle, but that is just not possible for someone who depends on using their shop space for their business.
 
I

Kept my eye out for a second 50s GE fridge that is now the garage fridge. If the one in the kitchen ever goes out I would move this one in.

I also parted out a rusty one and kept the innards intact under the house. With these old things the parts are a hobby in themselves
 
I can't provide any help with the refrigerator but that kitchen looks amazing from the short glimpse we got in the YouTube clip. Mind taking us on a tour?
 
Meg, let us know how you come out. When my '65 GE was running full-time and no longer cooling properly last year, I refused to throw in the towel. With help from members of the group, I swapped in the compressor and condenser from a modern fridge, recharged with R12, and it's been running perfectly ever since. Where there's a will, there's a way!
 
UPDATE

Hi everyone,

I am happy to report that my fridge is back up and running! I kept calling around until I found someone near me that could work on it. He found the issue very quickly.
The fridge had a major restriction where the capillary tube starts on the condenser coils in the back. There is actually a small filter drier located in this area and it was completely clogged. You couldn't even blow air through it. He cut out the old drier and replaced it with a much larger one. He also flushed the system with nitrogen to get all the debris out that could keep clogging the drier. I tagged a picture of the piece he cut out.

Gary at Skaggs Appliance in Corydon IN is a lifesaver. I am very confident that he can fix almost any issue I have with my old fridge.

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GE Ref Working again

Yay this is great news and it is really difficult for even us experts till we actually get our hands on the appliance,

 

We pretty much knew it was either a weak compressor or restricted [ or badly overcharged but this is unlikely since no one added refrigerant since it last worked ]

 

Great news you found someone that was willing to try fixing. [ how old was the repairman ? ]

 

John L.
 

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