1956 Kenmore Cycla Fabric washer

[kenmore70]

I recently acquired this Kenmore washer, which I’m going to restore. About 9 years ago I rebuilt a 1970 Kenmore washer, including the transmission, so I think I should be able to do this one. The hardest part I think will be getting the agitator off. Does anyone know how the tub ring comes off on this model? Later models had clips that held it on but I’m not sure about this one. Also, does anyone have a parts list for this model or one similar they could post here? It’s model 110.563581.
It would just help me see how things are put together. I’ve got most of the parts I need, hoses, gaskets, etc…. It looks like it has the original Dole solenoid valve but I’ll have to test that to see if it works. It will need new bearings but I dont have a bearing installation tool, anyone want to lend me one? . Thanks!

 

[114jwh]

Congratulations Tom - what a great find and so far it looks like its in excellent condition!

As to the tub ring- I'm in the process of restoring a 1960 belt drive as we speak and it does indeed have clips as well - 4 of them. They are a bit different than the later ones with plastic tub rings I believe but the concept is the same

Mine only had two still attached when I got it, one is still missing and the other I found somewhere in the cabinet. If you don't see any then they could have come off. It looks like in your picture there might be one at about 4 o'clock but its hard to tell. If there aren't any on there I would expect it will just lift off after you get the snubber out of the way. Might be stuck there a bit due to old detergent residue.

For the water valve, you can buy kits to refurbish them. I've only found them on eBay these days. W7438K2 is the kit that fits most, I bet it will be compatible with yours but others will likely be able to chime in. If you have three valves you'll need two kits.

Looking forward to seeing your progress! Keep us up to date!

 

[extmaxspin]

Also looking forward to seeing pics of your progress. I've been fascinated with the look and style of these machines in pictures and catalog pages, but am not at all familiar with the interior structure of these. I've heard/known they were different than the 1960s BD, but have not had an opportunity to see what they actually look like.

Just from your single pic with the top open, it's obvious that the suspension is different (well, not centered in the corners anyway) and that snubber looks more like a toy compared to the more robust spring loaded ones mounted from the corner brace.

Thanks again in advance for sharing your adventure!

 

[combo52]

Removing the tub cover of a 56 Kenmore

You remove the snubber assembly to three eights inch bolts that attach the bracket to the cabinet, I think the tub cover will just lift out or pull up from the edge of the outer tub disconnect the hose on the inlet air gap of course also

The snubber assembly on this older machine was probably better than the later one. It looks different, but it was plenty robust,

The agitator just removed by unscrewing the agitator cap. If the agitator doesn’t lift right off, take your fist and bang on the skirt of the agitator downward, that usually pops it right off you can also dump some penetrating oil on the top of the agitator drive block once you get the cap off.

John

 

[kenmore70]

1956 Kenmore Cycla Fabric washer

Thanks John, I agree the snubber on this older machine seems more rigid than the later ones. I'm having trouble removing the agitator but I will keep trying. I dumped penetrating oil on the top and let it sit a few days, also poured boiling water on the top but it still won't budge. I will keep trying and hopefully I won't damage it trying to get it off.

 

[kenmore70]

Spanner Nut removal help

I finally got the stuck agitator off this washer after putting this project aside for a while, and removed the drive collar but now I'm having trouble removing the spanner nut. It was very rusted and the spanner removal tool just stripped the grove in the spanner nut. I wound up cutting off the lip of the spanner nut but now the beveled edge of it is still inside the basket. Any ideas on how to remove this. Fortunately I haven't ruined the lip of the baseket.

 

[bendixmark]

Spanner Nut

Heat the nut with a torch being careful not to damage the agitator shaft seal.Melt the nut if necessary and chip it off it is a soft metel.

 

[combo52]

Removing a stuck spanner nut

Hi Tom, was your spanner nut steel or aluminum pot metal type material?

If it had just one notch in it, it was steel if it had four was aluminum pot metal combination

If it’s steel, you’re gonna just have to keep drilling and cutting until you’ve removed enough to lift the basket out, don’t worry about ruining the agitator shaft seal. If you take it torch to it as you’re going to need a new spin tube and seal anyway to do a proper rebuild.

John

 

[kenmore70]

Spanner Nut removal

John,

The spanner nut had one notch. I did have to drill and chisel but it finally came out and I got the basket off, the drive block and the tub. Not too much rust on the centerpost or baseplate. Even the tub had almost no rust inside. I do need a new solenoid valve, the one in the pictures still works, as I tested the solenoids for continuity with a multimeter, but the red valve body has a crack. Does anyone know what solenoid would fit on this machine (it's a 1956 Cycla Fabric, non-suds model. I've seen many on EBAY but not sure which one will fit.

 

[114jwh]

Great job getting that spanner nut off!

I can't tell from the angle of your picture if that valve has three solenoids or two. Regardless you would have to use a two solenoid inlet valve as a replacement as three solenoid valves for these machines are long long ago NLA (unless you can find a NOS or used one somewhere). The current replacement 2 solenoid inlet valve for belt drive machines is the yellow 358277 and still available. You may need to do some retrofitting with the mounting but as I understand this has the correct fill rate for a belt drive.

The condition of your centerpost and from what I can see of the outer tub is remarkable for the age of the machine. I found the centrepost and outer tub in my 1960 belt drive that I'm working on still to be in really good condition as well given the age. I'm wondering if the coatings on these old machines or the quality of the steel was superior to newer belt drives perhaps and held up better? It could of course be a coincidence too.

Good luck and looking forward to seeing your progress on this nice machine

 

[combo52]

Inlet valve for a 1956 Kenmore washer

Hi Tom, you just have a two solenoid valve. I take it, there’s no cold water setting on this washer, I think.

If I’m correct, with those assumptions, you need an early style two solenoid valve one solenoid gives you hot water the other gives you warm if they energize both you get medium water Temp.

You either need to find an older style valve like this or you can put in the later belt drive valve Part number

358277 if you use this later style valve, you will get cold water whenever it’s set on warm all the rinses will be cold. You’ll get warm water when you set medium temperature and when you set hot of course you’ll get hot water. This is a desirable upgrade for older machines because then you get the cold rinse.

Wow from the buildup of mineral deposit in the outer tub, whoever had this machine, either had very hard water, and they certainly didn’t use enough detergent.

John