58 Liberator automatic calrod/sensi-temp surface unit won't turn off

[panthera]

Great pics, thanks!

And it's the best color of them all - turquoise!

Sigh.

So, OK - if it were my stove, and having grown up with these and remembering the uselessness of the temperature sensor, I'd just go with the switches and cut the sensor out of the circuit. I believe it's an easy fix.

However - just in the spirit of tracking down an easy problem,  (stove unplugged, switch in 'off' or whatever passes for 'off') - please disconnect the wires attached to the black case under the white gear and then see whether there is continuity between any two terminals. Obviously, the pilot light terminals will be an easy test - if you turn the switch back on, they should show continuity. They're separate, however, from the rest of the circuit, so the problem we're looking for is going to be at one of the other sets of contact.

The problem is almost certainly a stuck contact within that case or the sensor unit in the middle of the calrod has failed in the ever 'on' position. At this point, it will be one or the other.

 

 

[spacepig]

You're welcome!

Thanks for the info and those specifics. It may be the weekend before we can test it out again due to our work schedules. Will definitely keep you posted,

As for turquoise, it actually looks sea foam green in the kitchen, due to the warm lighting, so I will definitely have to get lights with different tones to bring out the blue.

Also, because I've been wrapped up in this stove, I didn't mention that I was able to snag some original GE turquoise steel kitchen cabinets over the weekend! Unfortunately, they are fairly rusted, and some have been repainted white, so I don't think they are salvageable to go back to their original state.

 

[olddog]

This is interesting

I had the exact same problem tonight with my '56. I was checking the issue with the oven heating the top of the stove and afterwards (realizing the oven door did not close tightly) went on to cook dinner. The same problem with the same burner position happened. I put a pan of water on the burner (to have some weight on the pop up portion of the burner in the center) for just a moment and removed it. The burner started to cool down after I removed the pan. I figured the sensor stuck. I have used it several times since bringing the stove home last week and this is the first time it happened. WOW, glad to find this thread. I have no doubt I just need to get some time under my belt using this stove to learn its quirks and read/re-read the manual until I am comfortable with all the controls.

 

[joleenc]

Thank you so much for this information. I recently bought a '56 GE Stratoliner and I found the same issue when we reattached the wires to the calrod burner. We are still in the process of cleaning it (the lever switch was stuck in the On position due to grease buildup - Ew) and searching for replacement parts for the other burners, so we just disconnected the eye for now. I can already tell that this forum will be a great resource.

(And now I am going off to read as many posts as possible before making the mistake of asking any newbie questions.)

 

[spacepig]

Joleen,

Welcome to the group! Please share pix of your Stratoliner. I do believe that is my absolute favorite of the vintage GE's.

As for my stove issues, I have not solved them yet, in fact I think I may have made them worse. I was going to make a whole separate post about them but haven't yet, as I've been too lazy (and frustrated) to sort out all the pictures to attach to explain what happened. Long story short, the burner is still not working and remains completely disconnected.

Jeannine

 

[joleenc]

I completely understand being too tired and overwhelmed by things and not wanting to deal for awhile. And, the range will still be there next week.

Here's a picture of our Stratoliner. The right front burner is currently disconnected because the infinite switch was burned out (if it did not run at all, that would be fine, but it would not turn off, so, disconnected). The left front Automatic Calrod is also disconnected for the same reason. Hopefully that one is just because of some crossed wires since I have a feeling the control for that would be even harder to find than a compatible infinite switch.

 

[combo52]

Element Problems On A GE Range

The right front element does not have an infinite switch on this range, but it does sound like you need a new push-button control switch.

 

The LF element is a little more challenging to fix, you may just want to get two PB switches and change the LF element over to PB control, if ou do this on this range you also need another 8" element like the RR element.

 

[joleenc]

Sorry, my vocabulary for this particular range is lacking. I'm used to calling the control mechanism an "infinity switch".

We have a push button switch on order and I have the local repair shop looking for more in their used inventory. I want to try the suggestions above on the left front burner before throwing my hands up and switching it for a push button control.

Since it is not our main oven or range (I have a very odd house with two separate kitchens), it has not been a priority compared to leaking bathtubs and sorting through 25+ years of sewing patterns and fabric stashes.

 

[spacepig]

Joleen,

Where did you order your pushbutton switch from?

I'll try and get pictures together tonight and put together a post of what we did and what went wrong this time so you can learn from our mistakes.

Jeannine

 

[joleenc]

I found the switch on eBay. Unfortunately, the seller didn't ship it until after the expected arrival date, which means it isn't going to get here until sometime later, probably while I'm on vacation.

Such is life.

 

[spacepig]

I obviously still haven't posted the story and pictures to go with the last saga with the stove. I'll try and get to that this weekend.