80s GE dryer gets SCALDING hot quickly

[cardinal24]

On Medium setting: Dryer get scalding hot in perhaps 2 minutes
On No Heat setting: Drying does not get hot.
Where is the heat? The heat is at the top-back, under the panel (knobs, buttons).
Removing the top reveals some nearly-charred area and a thermostat.
Please see the photo which show the hot area and the "nearly-charred" area below and the thermostat, etc.
Thank you in advance.

I also posted 67777 and 68000. Below is a link to 67777.

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?67777_10

 

[lorainfurniture]

You may have a failing operating thermostat. I would first do a very thorough cleaning. It is more likely you have a vent restriction, or there is a obstruction in the duct housing of the dryer. More than half of all dryer failures that I run in to are somehow related to airflow problems.

 

[rp2813]

As was suggested in the other threads, we had a similar experience with our '70s Maytag electric dryer and it did turn out to be a shorted heating element.

 

If cleaning the lint filter thermostats doesn't help, check the heating element.

 

[tomturbomatic]

When you turn on the dryer is any air coming out of the vent? If yes, is it s strong stream of air or a weak stream?

 

[cardinal24]

STRONG air flow.

Here's what I've done....
I have removed the "slinky" hose that goes from the dryer to the wall.
I am putting my hand down where I would attach the hose.
The air flow is STRONG.

 

[askolover]

Is the airflow outside strong also? If not, you may have obstruction in the ductwork somewhere.

 

[cardinal24]

Strong air flow -->> heating element or thermostat ....

Since the air flow is strong, I am considering this approach:
Sound reasonable? Suggestions?

1. Purchase BOTH heating element and thermostat. (I have no multi-meter)
2. Replace thermostat (looks easy).
3. If not fixed, replace heating element

 

[yogitunes]

while the air flow may seem strong out of the dryer, you made no mention of the rest of the ductwork.....you could replace all those items, and still have the same issues...

what is the EXACT air temperature?...many dryers run temps for 'high' in ranges from 160 to 200

areas of the cabinet, and especially near the element are going to be extremely hot..

never a bad idea to clean all paths of air flow, starting with the inside of the cabinet, all the way to the outside vent....vacuums and brushes are a big help, but if possible, compressed air cleans every nook and cranny

 

[cardinal24]

- During testing, there is no hose connected the machine. We are letting the air blow right into the basement. Strong air-flow as mentioned.
- I don't know the exact temperature. It is very hot AND we smell something burning. If you look at the pictures you can see something is charred. (See photo 3 and 6). Perhaps I need to notice the TEMPERATURE of the heat blowing out of the machine. Is that what you're saying?
- I cleaned the ducts near the lint filter, in the front of the machine, under the front door, where the 2 other thermostats are.
I was asked about the air-flow out of the machine (see replies 3 and 5).
We have been using this machine for 2 years. The heat-level has definitely increased. After about 3 minutes you burn your hand (as in lawsuit-hot)

It sounds like you are saying I need to take the dryer completely apart and clean everything. Still that doesn't seem like the cause for scalding temperatures. But I am not an appliance expert - far from it.

 

[coldspot66]

Discard the dryer and buy a whirlpool family dryer with the lint screen on the top. For the $$$$ there is no better dryer. Any dryer with the lint screen on the top is a Whirlpool manufactured dryer ( Whirlpool,Maytag, Roper, Admiral. Crosley and some sears Kemnore.

 

[cardinal24]

The air coming out of the dryer is warm.
It gets very hot (and smells) on Warm, Medium and Hot.
My new plan: Take the darned thing apart and clean, clean, clean.

BTW: Yogitunes: You say dryers run at 160 to 200. OK. Second degree burns occur at 131 degrees. Tissue is "destroyed on contact" at 162 degrees.
These are dangerous machines!

 

[yogitunes]

seeing charred/burnt lint on top of a heating unit, not all that uncommon....

but apparently something is going overboard.....

your best bet would be to change out the thermostat, and the heating element...

if I am correct, you have a matched set, so hate to see you kick this machine to the curb.....

for the most part, it is easy to take apart and clean....just need a little know how....

this video is a start for you to open the machine....after all, you will have to remove the belt in order to gain access to the heating element....depending on your model, once the belt it off, your basically going to left the drum from the back, about 1 inch upwards to release it from the rear bearing slot...and then pull the whole drum forward and out...

I will keep searching for other videos to this specific model that will help you along.....

it is rather easy to do all of this stuff, just a few factors of cleaning it out while you have it open, and some grease/oil applied to the rollers/bearings will help this machine run for a long time....

 

[yogitunes]

throwing in a commercial here.....

as mentioned, should you choose another machine....here is an absolutely beautiful matched set.....note to the dryer, larger than what you already have, easy to work on, exceptional drying with minimal to no wrinkling...one of the best built systems ever created....

still just a thought for the back burner.....at 145.00 for a low use set, you can't go wrong, even for a backup set....

http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/app/5883949667.html

 

[yogitunes]

this video could help too in removing the drum....as in his video, this model, the drum just slides out....just depends on which model you have as to which bearing is on the back....

 

[lorainfurniture]

I would hold off on the element. If it was grounded out it would heat on the no heat setting. If it was broke you would have no heat. I would remove the front panel and clean out the duct assembly. That's a big choke point on that particular era unit. These dryers had piss poor airflow when they were new, so even some lint build up will make a difference.

Pay attention to the blower wheel, if you see lint built up on the fins that is an indication of poor airflow. A good vent should be a smooth walled vent with no more that 2 90 degree turns and less that 15 ft.

Finally, the thermostat you pictured I believe is just a hi limit t'stat. If you see one on the exhaust that one is called the operating thermostat, I would change that one first.

 

[cardinal24]

High-limit thermostat OK, Strong air-flow, Vent-hose detachd

Forgive me: My dryer vocabulary is terrible.

There are 3 thermostats on this machine. The high-limit thermostat (behind the drum) which tested good. Two other thermostats on the duct assembly. I have NOT tested those!

QUESTION 1: Could bad thermostat(s) on duct assembly cause my overheating?

About air-flow:
a) I long-ago removed the vent-hose (between the dryer and the wall). A normal dryer load would blow lint into my basement.
b) I'd call the air-flow at the "exit pipe" where the vent-hose WAS attached "strong". I'm no expert!
c) Earlier, I took off the front panel and looked at the vent ductwork and the pair of thermostats. I cleaned it - but it's not spotless. I did NOT check the fins.

QUESTION 2: Given the strong flow at the "air exit" (where the vent hose is not attached), could blockage (fins and elsewhere) still cause my overheating?

Thank you.

 

[eronie]

Airflow

At your vent outside is the airflow strong? I'll bet it isn't!

 

[cardinal24]

I MUST be missing something I HAVE NO VENT HOSE

In Reply 16, eronie asks: "At your vent outside, is the air flow strong?"
I don't understand what I'm missing.
Maybe I'm using the wrong words.
I have this long slinky thing. I call it a VENT HOSE. (What should I call it?)
This VENT HOSE normally attaches to the washer and goes to the wall. Yes?
My VENT HOSE is NOT attached to the washer.
This means the air comes out of the washer RIGHT INTO MY BASEMENT. There is NO hose to the wall.
What am I not understanding?
----------------------------------------
After I disconnected the VENT HOSE, I turned on the dryer. I put my hand down at the "pipe" where I WOULD attach the VENT HOSE. I felt the air flow there. The air flow is strong.
----------------------------------------
I feel I am missing something because I write over and over: The VENT HOSE is DETACHED. I write: The air will go right into my basement (not outside my house).
I detached the VENT HOSE to rule-out a VENT HOSE obstruction.
Yet folks keep asking: How's the air flow outside the house.
It overheats even with the VENT HOSE disconnected.
----------------------------------------
I know I am missing something. I just don't know what. NO VENT HOSE.

 

[rp2813]

What part of THERE IS NO FLEX DUCT do posters not understand

You're not missing anything.  The people who don't bother to read through all of the posts before offering their advice are.  Almost a week ago, you stated that there is no vent hose attached.  It's tough to make that any more clear than you already have.

 

Speaking for myself, I am quite aware that you have strong air flow out of the exhaust on the back of the dryer.  Apparently, that doesn't necessarily mean you don't have lint buildup interfering with key components that may be causing the overheating.

 

It's time to move beyond the air flow and address the potential problem spots that have been mentioned where lint could still be the culprit.   If tending to those still doesn't fix things, you may have to take a gamble and replace the thermostat(s).

 

 

 

[mrb627]

Overheating...

You previously indicated it was getting scalding hot within two minutes on the medium heat setting. Are the other heat settings producing the same result or does this only happen on the medium heat setting?

Have you raised the top and operate the dryer to see what might be happening?

I think we need more information to help diagnose your issue.

Malcolm

 

[mrb627]

I would...

Raise the top and run the dryer on fluff setting.
Do you feel any airflow/draft near the top rear of the rotating drum.
There shouldn't be any. The interior of the cabinet should operate in a vacuum of sorts
Your air flow system may have a leak.

Malcolm

 

[DADoES]

 
Attempting to pin-down some further details ...

You say the dryer gets scalding-hot on top near the control panel within a couple mins of running (from a cold start?) on Medium heat setting.

1)  As Malcolm asked above, does that also happen on High and Low?

2)  What is the temperature of the air blowing out the back of the dryer after it runs for a while (longer than two mins)?  Check it at all three of the heat settings starting first on Low.  It should, of course, get progressively higher on each higher heat setting.

Regards to the vent hose being disconnected ... is that how you normally run the dryer?  Or you disconnected it as part of troubleshooting this scalding-hot problem?

 

[cardinal24]

Dryer gets scalding, below Control Panel, on Warm, Medium or
Hot settings (but doesn't get hot on No Heat setting). (See Reply 10)
I will test the exhaust temperature on each setting and post the results.

Malcolm: (Reply 21)
I disconnected the vent hose to simplify troubleshooting.
Once fixed, I'll reconnect it.

Malcolm (Reply 20)
I will run with top open and check for air flow behind drum

 

[cardinal24]

Comment, question, apology

I'm sure everybody has figured out (quickly) that I'm a complete novice.

I've finally messed with this thing long enough that my confidence grew.
Looking inside (form the front), I saw a lint "blanket" around the motor.
I then realized (duh!) that the lower-back plate provides perfect access to the motor.

I removed the handle and turned the machine on her face. I then removed the back-lower plate. I cleaned out a ton of crud from the motor and fins. Then I looked at the part of the hose the is INSIDE the machine. Lots of lint. I cleaned that crud too.

I haven't re-tested. I'm waiting for an answer to my question below about lubrication.

Comment: I am starting to believe: "There is air-flow, and there is AIR-FLOW!" I'm guessing dryers need GREAT air-flow.

Question: Yogitunes (Reply 11) wrote the following:
"...and some grease/oil applied to the rollers/bearings will help this machine run for a long time.... "
Can somebody provide detail on doing this? Type of grease? Where to apply it. Thanks

Apology:
Folks have been writing "air-flow, air-flow, air-flow". And I've been responding "I have good air-flow". I am feeling pretty dumb. It is my guess that a dryer needs GREAT air flow not just "air flow".

I haven't put it back together yet and tested. I waiting to hear back about lubrication, but I'm feeling pretty dumb about my resistance to the air-flow suggestions. So. I apologize.

 

[powerfin64]

I have been following your thread..

Im going to chime in on this one.

I'm not surprised about the lint build up that was found, it happens over time with the plastic exhaust hoses.
but before you hook up your exhaust hose, PLEASE throw your old one away!(picture #3) That is a MAJOR fire hazard! Don't try to clean it out. Do your self a big favor, Replace it with semi-rigid metal exhaust hose.(Others on here will agree with this)

I replaced mine with semi rigid years ago. Its peace of mind.
also, check and clean your outside exhaust hood from lint. it will help. Im glad you didn't have a dryer fire because of picture #3.

 

[mrb627]

Dumb? Not at all!

Taking action to solve a problem is never dumb! It is very difficult to convey the term airflow on a blog such as this. I would say that you have most likely solved your problem. Good Job.

Malcolm

 

[yogitunes]

recommended you take that whole machine apart and give it a good de-linting....imagine all the hiding places that you will find more lint...

brushes and a vacuum will help greatly, better if you have compressed air, especially around and inside the motor....

there is a rear bearing, and if you refer back to the vids I posted of disassembly...you have one of two types of rear bearing that holds the drum...

its either a ball type, that would lift up and forward and out.....or a 'C' clip on the rear that needs removed, and the drum will simply slide forward, up and out...

by the look of the condition with all the lint, probably in your best interest to open this machine up and clean the old grease out before adding new....simple auto bearing grease will work....

your going to want to grease the idler pulley as well......and zoom spout oil(3-n-1) for the motor bearings...a few drops in each end...

when your done, your going to have one happy, quiet machine, and most likely, more efficient...

 

[ken]

A person learns by asking questions and doing. You can feel proud of yourself and also have a feeling of accomplishment that you kept with it to fix the problem. Most people today would have scrapped it and just gone out and purchased a new one.