9534 confusion.

[boschlover1997]

so heres the story..

well its a problem with the motor that its always had.. ever since i got it from the scrap yard from the place i work; when it goes into spin it has no power with a load in.. it gets to about 100-200rpm usually, and sometimes its so bad that i dont even notice its tried to spin. when it does work with a load in, it quite often doesnt get up to speed and it takes ages to get to the speed its going to spin at. without a load it does jusst about get to 1000 but very jittery, and just like a modern machine
put it on aw that there was a fault, ive been told it could be armature or eddy feeds.. so i bought a new motor, from an old machine from an engineer who was selling it cheaper than the armature itself.. turns out it has the long yellow connection on the motor i was given instead of the big white block i needed. so i swapped the back on it too and then it wasnt even distributing, just going straight up.. turns out id forgotten to change the magnet from the black to the white one that came with the machine.
so did that.. and guess what? the problems not gone!! so called up the engineer who sold me it he was telling me stuff i didnt understand.. and then i mentioned the eddy feeds and he said theres no way that could be the eddy feeds.. and then he told me to do what i have done, otherwise he said scrap it (which im not going to do) so i had a fiddle with the motor and then i changed the middle of the motor, by detatching it from the back and unclipping the wires, and attatched the one with the slightly darker wires from the newer one.
when it came to testing the motor.. the lights were flickering and the machine wouldnt turn at all..
so today ive had it apart again and it turns out one of the prongs on the wires inside of the motor had snapped, so i swapped it, and now im confused;
its spinning ANTICLOCKWISE and the fault that it had in the first place is either still there exactly the same, or not there but when the machine gets to 1000 it loses all its power to keep up the speed, and ends up at 600 by the time the machine has finished the spin cycle.
thanks for looking, please please leave your suggestions as i have no idea what i should do now.
cheers. george.

 

[boschlover1997]

got an email..

ah just got an email from the seller, this is what he was telling me last night but dont have a clue what he was on about, if you can work it out please let me know:
"hi have looked at pin outs for your old style,cant find any info anymore, if you follow my instructions to identify the pin out from your motor, then mark wires from control board (field,field, arm,arm,taco,taco) put lugs on then put on new motor, you should be ok, this is all presuming you have a multimeter and no what your doing, cheers andy"

 

[boschlover1997]

oh, and if thats a taco, whats a magnet?

 

[whirlaway]

Slow spin

Is that a capacitor start motor? If it is get a new one and put on it.I had the same problems with my frogeye a packard motor was in it.Cost about 6 dollars,at most electric motor shops.Good luck Bobby

 

[fido]

Do you still have your original motor? I'm finding it hard to follow your post so I'm not sure what you have done. What you should have done is just used the armature from the replacement motor in the original motor, using the original magnet. I should probably have given detailed instructions on changing the armature. You take out the brushes, undo the two screws holding the motor together, hold the centre section and hold a Philips screwdriver on the tacho magnet screw head. A gentle tap on the handle of the screwdriver will release the armature rear bearing from its housing and the armature, complete with front alloy casting will come out. You then hold the front casting and give the end of the spindle a gentle tap to release the front bearing. You then fit the original tacho magnet to the replacement armature and drop the armature into the centre section of the motor. Always try to keep the rear casting with the centre section to avoid displacing any wires. Tightening the 2 screws will press the bearings into their housings.

 

[boschlover1997]

thanks fido..

yeah thats exactly what i did at first and it was still doing the same old thing.. infact even worse! but now, after i have swapped the centre section so now its got the old back, and the rest is new.. and i put the 2 metal prong wires in the new center section as they were in the old one..

now the problem is slightly different, doesnt seem as bad when going up into spin, but it spins anticlockwise and if (rarely) it gets to 1000 by the end of the spin cycle it'll be at 600.. as its losing power the whole time. the interm spins are
terrible too.

george.

 

[fido]

There is a way to test the motor run directly from the mains. You trace the brush wires and the field coil wires to identify their contacts in the connection block, make up a wire link with female spade terminals on the ends and link one brush connection to one field coil connection. You then connect a mains flex with the blue and brown wires to the other brush and field coil connections plus the earth wire to the motor casing. This will go straight to maximum spin but if you can fill the drum with washing already spun on another machine it will test whether the motor is producing enough power. When tracing the wires you will find one brush wire goes to a small metal device then the wire from that goes to the plug block. That is the TOC, (thermal overload cutout). For this test the pump won't be running but you can drain by gravity into a bucket placed on the floor

 

[boschlover1997]

cheers fido, i think i might be getting an 800 motor sent to me if i cant fix it, so im not in desparate need.. but now ANOTHER, YES ANOTHER problem has occoured!! the earth connection has snapped off so i cant use it now i have to find a way of fixing that too now!!