Amana Radarange RR4DW

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rp2813

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One of these is up for grabs on local CL for $10, but there's no picture of it.

 

I'm looking for a vintage RR with knobs and dials as opposed to a touch pad.

 

The key words at the bottom of the ad include "touchmatic" so I'm wondering if the RR4DW ever included a touch pad.  When I pull up images on line for this model number, both types come up.  My gut tells me that touchmatics apply to later models than the RR4DW, but I am looking for confirmation of this from the experts in case the seller can't provide a picture.

 

And would this really have 1,600 watts of power as the ad copy claims?

 

Thanks,

Ralph

 

 
 
The 1600w rating is likely peak AC consumption. So after all the inefficiencies it is probably a 700-800 watt RF power unit. This is easy to measure by heating a known quantity of water and doing some simple math.

To have a 1600 watt RF microwave it would have to be a 240v appliance, you can't get enough power from a 120v 20amp circuit.
 
Thanks Phil.

 

I was thinking that at 1,600 watts, I couldn't have the toaster and the RR going at the same time.  700 watts seems more like what was common for microwave ovens from this period.

 

I checked Cory's web site and found a picture of an RR4DW.  As I read up on the various series of RRs I decided I'd rather hold out for an RR7 series with variable power control.  Also, since the RR7s dropped the multi-colored buttons and dials, one of those would coordinate better in my kitchen.

[this post was last edited: 10/30/2016-17:01]
 
Travis, I had always felt that way about RR4s but I use less than full power quite often, so that rules them out.   The RR7's variable power control, which I for sure want, is justification enough for me to take a pass on the RR4DW.  My appreciation for their design remains.  It's just their (lack of) functionality that takes them out of the running.
 
Ralph,

It's ok. I rarely use a microwave at all and therefore I don't have real strong opinions on how they work. I only use them to heat things up so whether or not they're running full tilt or not I just don't care. I have one RR2 and two RR4's. That should complete my microwave horde.
 
I'd love an excuse to dump our 2008 Panasonic with smooth touch pad and worn off lettering on the most used selections -- like "start," which seems to be getting less responsive.   I'd much rather have real buttons, levers, and big dials instead.  I think I'd like a door that opens down, too -- like a conventional oven.

 

I also like the idea of an air-powered stirrer.  My mom's mid-'70s Monkey Wards (Tappan) zapper had a mechanical stirrer, and one blade scraped slightly -- almost from day one. 
 
Travis, you enabler, you!

 

Actually, the ad is kind of misleading.  The price shows $10 but it's like the ads that post a token price of $1.  In the actual heading it's $100 OBO, so since I'm not so keen on an RR4, I won't even bother to ask for clarification.  I wouldn't pay $100 for an RR7 series either.

 
Ralph,

Running a toaster and a full size microwave at the same time on the same circuit is possibly pushing your luck. A toaster will be 800-1000 watts typically and that microwave will be 1500+ watts. Depending on how healthy your breaker is you may start seeing nuisance trips even on a 20 amp branch. A 120v microwave oven really should be alone on it's own 20 amp branch!

Your '08 Panasonic is likely very similar to several ovens I have worked on. It is the only oven that ever freaked out my Kill-A-Watt by drawing too much power. I seem to recall the draw being about 1900 watts! Those Panasonic Inverter models are amazingly powerful, easily the most RF power of the ~20 ovens I have tested. They also power modulate better then other ovens as they don't pulse the magnetron. Although I do like the duty cycle pulsing to prevent things from boiling over at times. Those Panasonics are lightly built, and can be a bit feeble, but when they work they work well.
 
Offer $10

The reference to the touchmatic is a keyword. It's an RR4D that's begging to be your baby!

Go get it, I already have two.
 
The highest cooking power

for Radarranges of that series is 750 watts. The 1600 watt input is about right for 700watts output.

I like Panasonic inverters because they're powerful. The lower power output versus full blast on a cycle makes zero difference in real life cooking - I've compared the results and it's just good marketing.

The Panasonics are, however, easier to repair when things go wrong (and they do, the driver boards are designed to fail).

If 700/750 watts is enough (and for nearly everything it is), I'd go for it. Thanks to the help I got here, our Touchmatic was wonderful for a long time. Finally had to give her up for a 240 volt 2000 Watt Panasonic commercial.

 
 
The lower power output versus full blast

I agree that if you are heating a volume of water of course it makes no difference, but somehow the Panasonics seem more uniform when I turn down the power. Perhaps they have more even RF distribution in the cavity and the modulation isn't difference...
 
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