Blue box mod1

[supremewhirlpol]

Sealer applied to areas. Time for plexiglass and sealer to cure

 

[tolivac]

the "Appliance flourescent bulbs just don't exist in my area.Tried all sources-even Grainger didn't carry them anymore-same with any of the appliance parts stores.Yet the MH ballasts and bulbs are available.I have two 400W MH,HP sodium digital ballasts-got them from Growers Supply.They work well with 400W Sodium bulbs,400W probe start MH and pulse start MH 400W bulbs.you cannot use the Philips "retro White" 400W MH conversion bulbs on these-it will blow the bulb.(Retro-White is a ceramic arc tube MH conversion bulb for 400W HP sodium-Philips also makes them in 250W.)I use the Philips bulbs on conventional HP ballasts only.The bulbs are available online.Will have to order some more-they are very nice bulbs-you can get WHITE light from a HP sodium fixture!I have several portable 35W and one 50W portable battery powered lights that use the "Xenide" bulbs.Like HID car headlights.you can get car headlight kits and adapt them to work on portable halogen spotlights.You get more light,longer bulb life,cooler operation and less power draw-the battery will run the light longer.I suppose one could use a car HID bulb for a washer lamp conversion-there are many types of power supplies about that can step the 120VAC down to 12VDC for the car HID bulbs ballast primary voltage.and the car ballasts can withstand heat and moisture.the car and portable HID bulbs ballasts are digital.Like the regular HID bulb the xenide ones would have to be protected from splashing.

 

[combo52]

REPLACEMENT FLORESCENT LIGHT BULBS

Rex and others WP still sells the 26" florescent bulb used in many WP & KM washer & dryers for the full width console light. You can also get them from Graingers but I recently found they were cheaper from WP.

 

[tolivac]

Graingers in my area was the first thing I tried-the store here didn't have the bulbs.Same with D&M appliance parts-and the lighting stores here-so my flourscent lights on my two washers that use them are dark.

 

[mrb627]

Sweet

Now there's a couple of neat modifications.  I was gonna suggest some type of rope lighting around the underside of the D shaped lip.  But this looks like it will work just fine.

 

Malcolm

 

[yogitunes]

One question.......How are you cutting into this porcelain without chipping it?......this is opening a whole world of possibilities......

Thanks Melvin

I also like Malcolm's idea of rope lights too!

 

[supremewhirlpol]

Malcolm, I'm one step ahead of you. Yes, a good idea that I've been planning for 3 weeks now. It's MOD1, part3, Without revealing what it is yet.

Martin, I use a Craftsman Rotary Tool and cut-off disks for MOD1, part2. When you cut the porcelain it does still chip, so wear safety glasses (of coarse). Just cut the metal very slowly. The side you do the cutting on will be the most chipped. I should have cut from the bottom of the splash guard instead of the top. Look at the the edges of where I cut. There are small chips taken out, this is the side I applied the cutting wheel to.

 

[supremewhirlpol]

Now look at the underside. Hardly no chipping. Lesson: If you want to keep the top porcelain finish looking good(the edges), cut from the bottom side.

 

[yogitunes]

we all live and learn..........but loving these ideas.........

got me thinking about the rope lights, and hooking them up to the lid switch for activation......

Thanks for the pics

 

[supremewhirlpol]

Lid switch for activation? You mean like the lights come on when you open the lid?

I'd say the best way is to replace the NO only momentary switch with a NO/NC momentary switch. Connect one lead to the lights to the NC terminal

 

[combo52]

MODIFIED LIGHTING SYSTEM FOR THE BLUE WP

Hey pretty cool job Melvin. One reason the porcelain chips more on the top of the tub cover is that the porcelain coating is twice as thick on the top as compared to the blue base coat on the bottom. Can't wait to see the final lighting effect.

 

[aldspinboy]

Melvin that is nice that you got that washer I saw it at the Wash-- In at Jhons Place.

Nice work something to see and learn by, looking forward to seeing your results.

Should be pretty kool to see the lights where you have drilled good luck.

 

 

 

 

 

Darren k

 

[supremewhirlpol]

MOD1, part 3

Thanks John, Darren!

Now! A tub/"wash" light has been added, but there is STILL a problem. What's wrong with this picture?

 

[yogitunes]

unfortunately....the whole lens does not light equally, and not bright enough!.....but yet the dial is clearly lit, super sweet!

for all that effort you put into it, you would have thought it would have been a beacon to the sky.....

 

[supremewhirlpol]

Correct Martin!
I didn't use a bigger lamp because I was worried about the heat that they give off. If I would have used 175 W med base ED17 instead of the 50W med base ED17 the light would have spanned across a lot better. The down side would be the same amount of heat as a standard 175W MH mogul base ED 28 lamp, a shorter lamp life, higher cost for the lamp, and not as easy to find locally. By shorter lamp life, I mean ~200 hrs, then all of a sudden something fails in the lamp. The MH 175W in the med base ED17 format cost on average ~$37 each vs. the bigger ED28, which cost ~$21 each. In general I have not had very good experiences with the smaller, more compact 175W ED17 med base lamps. The best solution I have for the work light issue is the flat LED rope light-> should be here in a few days.