I have a Whirlpool Duet steam washer with the clean washer cycle. Our machine does not have an odor after a year and a half of use. But I prefer to keep the build up of Tide, Downy, and hard water minerals to a minimum. Which would work better to prevent the listed build up? Bleach or Vinegar. I refuse to pay big money for the scam "washer cleaning" crap they sell. I can not see any of this gunk, but I am sure its there! All I need is the BEST of these two listed. I'm not concerned about bacteria because I often do hot and warm washes.
Cleaning Washer: Bleach VS. Vinegar
- Thread starter lakewebsterkid
- Start date
Help Support :
Cleaning Washer:
In our old machine's user guide, they suggested starting the machine on the HOTTEST, HEAVIEST cycle, adding some Epsom Salts then pausing the machine to let it soak. I would perhaps use the Vinegar in the Fabric Softener cup (after you clean it) in a big, heavy doage (even add some to the tub, like a whole small bottle) during the rinse or another wash to ensure everything is kept at bay.
Regular usage of Hot cycles (esp. on newer machines that have auto temperature control, where Warm is barely so) will prevent the buildup you are concerned about. Using the correct amount of detergent will also work wonders too. Try reading online reviews or Consumer Reports testing to find the best cleaning detergent. I use Drive, but overall, Choice (our Consumer Reports) recommends Omo, since it is probably better value all round. Drive actually scores the best overall cleaning performance.
So: Avoid Cold washes (Cold rinses are fine) and fabric softener, especially on cold washes, use the RIGHT detergent. Not the "Eco Friendly" BS. This stuff doesn't work, you use more and clog up your machine.
In our old machine's user guide, they suggested starting the machine on the HOTTEST, HEAVIEST cycle, adding some Epsom Salts then pausing the machine to let it soak. I would perhaps use the Vinegar in the Fabric Softener cup (after you clean it) in a big, heavy doage (even add some to the tub, like a whole small bottle) during the rinse or another wash to ensure everything is kept at bay.
Regular usage of Hot cycles (esp. on newer machines that have auto temperature control, where Warm is barely so) will prevent the buildup you are concerned about. Using the correct amount of detergent will also work wonders too. Try reading online reviews or Consumer Reports testing to find the best cleaning detergent. I use Drive, but overall, Choice (our Consumer Reports) recommends Omo, since it is probably better value all round. Drive actually scores the best overall cleaning performance.
So: Avoid Cold washes (Cold rinses are fine) and fabric softener, especially on cold washes, use the RIGHT detergent. Not the "Eco Friendly" BS. This stuff doesn't work, you use more and clog up your machine.
Vinegar it is!
Thanks for the reply! Tide powder I would imagine is one of the best for residue with a nice hot wash. But don't take my word as I may be wrong. I only use cold for jeans and black clothes. But I am currently am running a sanitize cycle now, then later I will use vinegar in the clean washer cycle. Thanks again!
Thanks for the reply! Tide powder I would imagine is one of the best for residue with a nice hot wash. But don't take my word as I may be wrong. I only use cold for jeans and black clothes. But I am currently am running a sanitize cycle now, then later I will use vinegar in the clean washer cycle. Thanks again!
Actually citric acid would be even better than vinegar. Vinegar is harsher than citric acid.
Dishwasher detergent
I can't imagine there is anything that would remove the fabric softener deposits better then a good dose of dishwasher detergent and some truly hot water. An acidic solution would remove any mineral deposits if you have really hard water but I don't think it would do much against any waxy softener film...
Be sure to have a decent load of rags or old towels in the drum when you run the cycle. Only by spinning the water out of a load of laundry will you really rinse the upper parts of the tub.
I can't imagine there is anything that would remove the fabric softener deposits better then a good dose of dishwasher detergent and some truly hot water. An acidic solution would remove any mineral deposits if you have really hard water but I don't think it would do much against any waxy softener film...
Be sure to have a decent load of rags or old towels in the drum when you run the cycle. Only by spinning the water out of a load of laundry will you really rinse the upper parts of the tub.
danemodsandy
Well-known member
I Personally Think....
....That P & G is doing the Tide brand a grave disservice by making a "washer cleaner" by that name.
- Because if I use Tide for washing my clothes, and I now need a washer cleaner, then that means the current formulation of Tide isn't cleaning well, or isn't rinsing out properly, or something.
The commercials don't make me want to run out and buy the washer cleaner - they make me wonder what is wrong with Tide detergent.
....That P & G is doing the Tide brand a grave disservice by making a "washer cleaner" by that name.
- Because if I use Tide for washing my clothes, and I now need a washer cleaner, then that means the current formulation of Tide isn't cleaning well, or isn't rinsing out properly, or something.
The commercials don't make me want to run out and buy the washer cleaner - they make me wonder what is wrong with Tide detergent.
Yep, citric acid.
Thanks!
I agree with you danemodsandy! Hopefully I can find some citric acid and try it out. Thanks for all the replies!
I agree with you danemodsandy! Hopefully I can find some citric acid and try it out. Thanks for all the replies!
I agree, the citric acid is probably the best choice for this type of cleaning.
I've used the Affresh tablets in front-load washers I'm cleaning up to use myself (or sell) and have had great results. Clean and fresh smelling. I use the highest water level I can get with HOT water and for the longest wash time available. For an initial cleaning when I suspect there is likely a biohazard growing on the machine parts, I use two tablets in the cycle, followed by another cycle with just bleach to make sure we've killed all the renegade guerilla fighters in the bacterial battle.
If your just trying to maintain your washer, one tablet will do. It's easy and relatively inexpensive at roughly $2 per tablet.
I've used the Affresh tablets in front-load washers I'm cleaning up to use myself (or sell) and have had great results. Clean and fresh smelling. I use the highest water level I can get with HOT water and for the longest wash time available. For an initial cleaning when I suspect there is likely a biohazard growing on the machine parts, I use two tablets in the cycle, followed by another cycle with just bleach to make sure we've killed all the renegade guerilla fighters in the bacterial battle.
If your just trying to maintain your washer, one tablet will do. It's easy and relatively inexpensive at roughly $2 per tablet.
If you are Concerned:
If you are scared of clogging the machine, perhaps you could use Vinegar instead of regular fabric softener. This can help keep the mineral deposits at bay - but you could certainly run a standard dosage of dishwasher (powder) detergent through the machine, to really clean it up (Read the label: Look for ones that have "Lipases" as one of the enzymes, as these digests fats/waxy stuff)
If you are scared of clogging the machine, perhaps you could use Vinegar instead of regular fabric softener. This can help keep the mineral deposits at bay - but you could certainly run a standard dosage of dishwasher (powder) detergent through the machine, to really clean it up (Read the label: Look for ones that have "Lipases" as one of the enzymes, as these digests fats/waxy stuff)
I've looked at the ingredient list on the Tide washer cleaner box, and it's mostly washing soda and oxygen bleach. You could probably get the same effect by running Oxyclean through the washer on a hot cycle.
STPP probably would also do a good job of loosening and rinsing away various deposits. However if hard water mineral deposits have gotten to the point when they are like limestone encrusting the interior, nothing short of very harsh chemicals (think hydrochloric acid) or physical chipping will get rid of those.
STPP probably would also do a good job of loosening and rinsing away various deposits. However if hard water mineral deposits have gotten to the point when they are like limestone encrusting the interior, nothing short of very harsh chemicals (think hydrochloric acid) or physical chipping will get rid of those.
simple things you already have...dishwasher detergent, bleach, vinegar, borax and washing soda....all are good cleaners for these machines....
but with regular washing in Hot/warm water, detergent, and one or two loads a week of bleach....I have never seen/had an issue with mold or smells in my machines...nor do I leave the door/drawers open, or ever have to run a clean cycle...
if I get a used machine that needs cleaned up, usually hot water and dishwasher detergent and/or bleach take care of everything....for some areas like the dispenser drawer and rubber seals/boots, I use bathroom mold and mildew spray, sometimes a little scrubbing is needed, but everything gets cleaned out and fresh the first time....no issues
but with regular washing in Hot/warm water, detergent, and one or two loads a week of bleach....I have never seen/had an issue with mold or smells in my machines...nor do I leave the door/drawers open, or ever have to run a clean cycle...
if I get a used machine that needs cleaned up, usually hot water and dishwasher detergent and/or bleach take care of everything....for some areas like the dispenser drawer and rubber seals/boots, I use bathroom mold and mildew spray, sometimes a little scrubbing is needed, but everything gets cleaned out and fresh the first time....no issues
xpanam
Well-known member
I have been using 1 Tbsp. of Lemi Shine and 1 Finish Power ball tablet, once a month.
Vinegar & Washing Machines
You want to use white vinegar or any acid for that matter with caution in washing machines. Miele for instance does not recommend routine use of vinegar in their washing machines. On older top loading washing machines acids can damage porcelain enamelled tubs.
If you read the directions for acid based front loading washer cleaners sold on the other side of the pond (usually formic acid/ ameisensäure) the product goes in the first (wash cycle) and directions clearly state several rinses with fresh water must follow.
You want to use white vinegar or any acid for that matter with caution in washing machines. Miele for instance does not recommend routine use of vinegar in their washing machines. On older top loading washing machines acids can damage porcelain enamelled tubs.
If you read the directions for acid based front loading washer cleaners sold on the other side of the pond (usually formic acid/ ameisensäure) the product goes in the first (wash cycle) and directions clearly state several rinses with fresh water must follow.
Thanks!
I will keep all of this in mind!
I will keep all of this in mind!
arbilab
Well-known member
Unfortunately, calcium carbonate (lime/hardwater scale) has chemical foundation in common with porcelain. Porcelain is baked, it's more impervious because it's less porous. Vinegar (acetic acid 5%) is ideal for plastic or fiberglass outer tubs and stainless inners (most current frontloaders). Vinegar does not attack neoprene (seals, boot, pump impeller). Lime DOES attack these, abrasively.
However, while vinegar--or citric acid--frees the carbonate binding from lime it does not remove the calcium itself, which remains behind in the form of a paste and needs moderate abrasion to remove. A Dobie pad will do it, but there's no practical way to get a Dobie between washer tubs and out again.
Dishwasher detergent MIGHT affect fabric softener residue. But FS is largely a hydrophobic wax. Once I found out what it was, I would never use it. Next time you wash your hands, try drying them with a candle. That's what FS does to fabric. If you like the scent, spritz Febreze on a rag and toss it in the dryer.
Bleach of course is an oxidizer. A very indiscriminate one. If you want to croak biologicals from your equipment without chemically attacking their private parts, a very little iodine will do that. Though iodine stains badly, 3 drops PREDILUTED in rinse water will not and it will kill EVERYTHING. As an antibacterial it's actually stronger than bleach (sodium hypochlorite 5%), less destructive and even smells better/cleaner. Iodine in very small quantities is a vital nutrient. Bleach is not. You decide.
However, while vinegar--or citric acid--frees the carbonate binding from lime it does not remove the calcium itself, which remains behind in the form of a paste and needs moderate abrasion to remove. A Dobie pad will do it, but there's no practical way to get a Dobie between washer tubs and out again.
Dishwasher detergent MIGHT affect fabric softener residue. But FS is largely a hydrophobic wax. Once I found out what it was, I would never use it. Next time you wash your hands, try drying them with a candle. That's what FS does to fabric. If you like the scent, spritz Febreze on a rag and toss it in the dryer.
Bleach of course is an oxidizer. A very indiscriminate one. If you want to croak biologicals from your equipment without chemically attacking their private parts, a very little iodine will do that. Though iodine stains badly, 3 drops PREDILUTED in rinse water will not and it will kill EVERYTHING. As an antibacterial it's actually stronger than bleach (sodium hypochlorite 5%), less destructive and even smells better/cleaner. Iodine in very small quantities is a vital nutrient. Bleach is not. You decide.
I didn't have to scrub when I used citric acid on my Constructa H-axis toploader. The only thing I did was do a boil wash with a few tablespoons of citric acid and rinse a few times. That's all.
Here's the before picture.
Here's the before picture.
And this is afterwards.
