coppertone fridge

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Depends.

It looks like a nice box, well taken-care-of. Since frost-free fridges can have issues after 15 or 20 years, and since they're harder to work on than regular fridges, I would get John combo52's opinion on how much fun these are - or aren't - to repair before proceeding.

This could run like new for a long time, it could have problems tomorrow. You just need to know more about the repairability of the machine before deciding to buy.

Ordinarily, I'd say the price was a bit high for a box of this age (I'm thinking around 1975 or so). But it does look to be in exceptionally high cosmetic condition, and cosmetic issues can be some of the most frustrating and expensive to fix.

Just do your homework.
 
I'm a fan of coppertone, and while I don't know anything about the mechanicals of this particular fridge, for a complete, operating, nice condition fridge, it doesn't seem a bad price. Depending on your use, is this frost free?
 
I like both those fridges-especially the GE,i recon it is ~1968,actually a lot like my 1980 GE fridge and basicly the same compressor,fans,etc -very reliable,but fan motors may be worn by now-no biggie,easy to replace.
 
cfz2882:

If you're talking about the GE, it's several years later than 1968; the Ye Olde Fayke Woode Graine handles are the giveaway. GE used a plain black handle for several years, then changed the plastic inserts to the shambolic wood-look.
 
I see the philco has been posted on here before with the issue stated in the craigslist add i talked to carmnine who owns this beauty and we may be able to work sometime out.
 
My aunt had the Philco back in the day. There was some sort of problem with the freezer (wonder if it is the same issue that carmine's has) and she traded it for something that looked very much like the GE! It ran for decades.
 
Perhaps John L. can expand on this (or anyone with similar experience) but he told me once long ago when we were discussing older frost-free units that if one changes the defrost timer to a programmable unit, energy use would go way down.  It is the defrost cycles that run (on some units) every few hours that consume the bulk of the energy in FF refrigerators/freezers.  Constant heating and re-cooling the unit.  Most units do not need to be defrosted as often as they are pre-programmed to from the factory.  This would largely depend on usage, climate, etc. but since most of us have climate controlled homes now, it wouldn't be unreasonable to think this would be a good idea.  

 

Also, changing the motor in the condenser fan to a more efficient DC replacement would save even more energy.  

 

I wandered through the refrigerator section of our huge appliance store yesterday and was blown away by the pricing of new units.  TOL units from Samsung and LG upwards of $3600 and built-in Sub Z & KitchenAid starting at $6800.  Average mid-line pricing was $2000+.  Wow.  I have a 2007 TOL KitchenAid counter depth 25 cu. ft. in my kitchen and paid less than $1400 on sale.

 

 Cabinet sizes were also shocking, some of these units were 36-38" deep and counter-depth models were few and far between. 
 
That GE

looks almost identical to my parents 1977 Harvest Gold GE fridge. Though it must be older because our 77 has the ice cube tray holder hanging from the "ceiling" on the left side of the freezer. The first fridge I can recall was a white GE which I believe was a 68-69 model and had the ice cube tray storage like the Coppertone.

Anyway the point I wanted to make was my parents GE is still being used as the main fridge in the kitchen today. It has been in continuous use since 77 without any problems at all.

After reading past info posted here I think I should look into replacing the condenser & evaporator fans with more efficient DC type. And also look into reworking the defrost system to energize less frequently if acceptable to do so.

Some info concerning these changes would be greatly appreciated.
 
different fan motors

Since the fan motors were worn on my 1980 GE fridge,i replaced them with ones that use less current-the small fans don't really use much current,but since I was changing them anyway...For the condenser fan,found one in my fan motor box rated (IIRc).13 amps VS .39 for the original-the replacement,a 1990 dated dump grab,turned the fan at around the same speed as original.The evap fan was a little more complicated-wanted to use a brushless DC:more for reduced heat given off VS shaded pole than the tiny amount of extra current usage of the shaded pole-I adapted a DC24v EBM papst 4-5/8""muffin" fan,mounting a small transformer by the condenser fan to power the DC fan.I added a switch to disable the auto defrost-a plexi window added to freezer back panel so evap can be checked for frost buildup and defrost activated as needed :)
 
cfz2882

Do you use the '80 GE as your daily driver? How often do you normally defrost? And how many minutes does it usually take to defrost the evaporator? [this post was last edited: 1/29/2014-15:35]
 
The Philco uses a spring-loaded Nylon cam arrangement to "snap" the door shut. Unfortunately, the cam got into the wrong position during a door removal and re-install. This cracked the Nylon cam.

With patience and the right glue, the cam could probably be fixed. I tried adding some magnets to the door seal (discretely) but there isn't a lot of steel to grab onto, the inner tub is plastic.

The ideal would be to find a new part. I've never looked.
 
The first pictures is the GE with little " ICE & EASY" garage door for the ice trays.  The bucket that the trays was emptied into is still in the freezer door shelf.  Almost a miracle to keep this altogether for almost 40 years. alr
 
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