electric skillet

[washerboy]

I purchased a GE electric skillet off e bay. It's probably 25 years old, new still in box with tags and warranty card. I've tried to use it twice. The first time I made a grill cheese sandwich and almost burned it up. I figured I did'nt have the skillet figured out yet. Tried again last night and had smoking bacon grease. I realized last night the temp. controll does not work. Since I'm already in this deep I thought I'd shop for a new power cord. I took the cover off the power cord this morning and it all looked new and clean inside. I thought maybe setting up all those years it might rust or something. So my big questions are: 1) any suggestions other then looking for a new cord and 2) am I correct in thinking the power cord controlls the temp or is there something inside the skillet itself?/thanks!!!!/ The pic of the skillet is still on e bay...I tried to transfer it to this post..sorry...guess I'm not very computer literate.

 

[112561]

I saw one on there last week that was actually advertised as 1959, new in box, but that can't be the one you are referring to I'm sure. I looked today, and haven't run it down yet. Is yours colored or plain aluminum?

 

[washerboy]

here's the pic

skillet.jpg

 

[kevin313]

That's a nice looking skillet.

The thermostat control (the part that plugs into the skillet) is what regulates the current going to the enclosed element that is on the bottom of the skillet. Since you say that this is burning things, my guess is that it is not regulating the temperature and has full current going to the element at all times.

I would look for a replacement - ebay is probably a good source. Hopefully, you can find a GE control, but it may be interchangable with other brands.

Good luck - I think an electric skillet is one of the best and most practical small appliances to own.

 

[maytagbear]

It's older than 25 years,

and that particular control is known to run hot. I know, because it is the same model control for my GE Electric Saucepan.

I've been trying to find a control locally, but no luck so far.

GOOD luck.

Lawrence/Maytagbear

 

[rp2813]

Thrift Stores

I have seen generic-looking controls for skillets at thrift stores in the section where they have various types of electrical and computer cords.

I bought a Farberware buffet skillet that didn't have its original temp control and found one hanging on the "cord wall" at my local Savers. I brought both home and the skillet worked fine. I have since found the OEM Farberware control for it.

Unless you want the exact temp control that was made for your skillet, you can make the skillet usable with a generic one. You just have to be sure it's the same fit. Not all skillets take the same type, and there are slight differences.

 

[112561]

That's very similar to mine, I don't have the high dome lid, and the legs on the handle end aren't longer, like those appear, unless it's the picture angle. Mine is well used, only by me twice, and I was heating frozen chicken at 250 degrees, it came out well. Maybe it could have a little screw setting inside the control that you could back off a touch, to reset the heat. That is a beautiful piece, I think it was money well spent.

 

[tomturbomatic]

When you have it plugged in and the skillet is hot, will the light go out if you turn the heat down? If not, perhaps a contact in the thermostat has corroded so that it is constantly "on." You probably have nothing to lose except time if you want to explore inside the control. Sometimes things sitting for years can go bad, like the virgin bud that becomes a dried arrangement.

 

[rp2813]

I Agree With Tom

I just recently picked up a shiny chrome barely used mid-50's Roto-Broil Custom 400 rotisserie oven from CL. I gave it a quick check for operation at the seller's house, which it passed.

Got the thing home and put it through its paces on the bench. Damned if it didn't shut off completely by itself after a couple of minutes. I found that if I jiggled the timer knob power was restored, so I knew the issue was with the timer.

When I pulled the timer and inspected it, I found two spring metal tabs that apply pressure on the contacts when the timer knob is turned. One tab was just barely making contact and was the source of the problem. I gave both tabs a slight bend so the pressure would increase, and the problem was solved.

The Roto-Broil is so nearly pristine, I have to presume that the timer was bad from the beginning since the contacts weren't carbonized from years of loose connections.

So, I would do as Tom suggests. The problem with your temperature control could become apparent once you open it up, and possibly easy to correct.

 

[washerboy]

thanks

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and comments. Guess taking the controll apart will be my Sunday afternoon project. Tomturbomatic is correct I really dont have anything to loose. If that does'nt work I'll start the search for a replacement. I am disapointed that it did'nt work!!!! I did'nt even consider it might not after sitting unsed for all these years. Thanks again everyone!!!!

 

[tomturbomatic]

Several years ago when Fred G. (Blackstone) was closing out his family business, I had the opportunity to buy a couple of MIB electric skillets, one Universal and one Toastmaster, both stainless steel. Last night for my latke frying, I pulled the Universal by Landers, Frery & Clark out of the box, cleaned it up from almost 50 years of just sitting there and used it. I was leary of how it would work because it is very light weight. I read that it is a stainless, copper, stainless sandwich construction, very expensive to make. The heating element was unusual in that it was very thin, followed the perimeter of the pan and then made a loop into the middle. Fred did let me have an additional Universal heat control with the pan so I felt I would have a backup if the first one did not work.

I mixed up some really good latkes with zucchini, carrots and celery added to the usual ingredients and went to start frying. First of all the pan heats almost instantly, but you really can't use the recommended heat settings because they used the same for both their stainless steel and their aluminum skillets and as anyone who has cooked in stainless steel knows, you have to use lower heat in frying operations. GE stressed that in their surface unit instructions, saying to use one setting lower than for aluminum pans and 25 degrees lower for the Sensi-Temp unit. So, when I could see that the oil was hot enough, I turned the heat control down to where the light went out and it was at 250F. I had sprayed the pan with Pam before adding the oil. I fried the first batch of 4 and I have never had such perfectly even results in an electric skillet. All evening long, as I stood there and fried and ate, the results were unwavering. Since the heat setting was definitely suspect, I unpacked the second heat control and swapped them out. The second fried beautifully, too, at 250F so if they are off, they are both off by the same amount, but I think it is more the stainless/copper construction. Nothing stuck to the pan and each latke was perfect. I cleaned up the pan to like new appearance (no scratches, I only use plastic utensils) and repacked it. One day, I hope to get my huge collection of MIB housewares, electric and non-electric to the Johnson and Wales museum.

 

[112561]

Washerboy

Have you seen this?

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[paulg]

I calibrate my pans

The first vintage pan I bought was the typical 1955 pink Sunbeam. Good shape. Burned food.
Using my Fluke Thermocouple tester attached to my B&K meter, I tested the temp. It was way off. Realigned the pan's thermostat and all was well to this day.
I've checked the other pans I've picked up along the way and all were OK. I guess it was just a fluke - excuse the pun.

 

[rp2813]

That ebay temp control looks like new.

But yours does too, right? It may not be any better than what you have, and $25 is way too much to pay.