Front Load Washer For Upstairs Condo/Apartment???

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chaskelljr2

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2001
Messages
508
Location
Washington, D. C.
Good Morning All:

How is everyone today???

Fine???

Okay...... here's the deal......

I was in the process of remodeling my condo/apartment, and now that the heavy work is complete, all I want to do now is to make my condo/apartment more attractive to live in and to come home to.

I just received a new Refrigerator/Freezer (a Side-By-Side Kenmore with an Ice Maker and an Ice and Water Dispenser in the door) from my landlord, and now, to complete my kitchen, I am thinking about purchasing a Counter Top Dishwasher and a Front Load Washer in the next two years.

Now, as for the Washing Machine....... here's what I am up against. In the kitchen, I have a sink that has a single faucet and the electrical outlet is on the opposite side of the kitchen from where the washer will be situated. All that I was able to find so far is a Top Load Whirlpool Portable and a Kenmore clone which has the single faucet water attachment that I require for my installation. The question to you all is, can I find a Front Loader that also offers/utilizes a single faucet water attachment???? And if I cannot find one, can one be converted to use such an attachment to my kitchen faucet???? How about using an extension cord to enable the washer to reach the power outlet???

The models I am interested in so far are a Front Loader from Whirlpool, or a model from LG.

I have access to dryers...... I can go downstairs and use the dryer that's in the building, or I can go around the corner to the neighborhood laundromat and use one of the dryers there. So, with that said, I will NOT be purchasing a dryer. Because I have a busy lifestyle now (I work two jobs, and I work seven days a week, instead of laundry piling up on me all the time), it is paramount that I have a Washing Machine of my own.

Again..... the single water faucet attachments that I can find on a few apartment sized top loaders, is it possible that I can find a front loader that has this attachment also??? And if so, what are the brands and models I should consider????

Thank in advance for your help and advice.....

--Charles--
 
What I did:

Hi! Charles, I've converted {so to speak} my LG Compact Combo, from a Stationary to a Portable Washer. My first Question to you would be, is your space/area where you can have a Washer sit, would the Machine be there as a permanent fixture, or would you need to move it to your Sink, to hook it up to the Faucet? If you are able to leave the Machine where it sits when not being operated, then you can just adjust Level Legs. If you are going to have to move it around from where it sits not in use to the Sink, then you will have to look into some kind of a Heavy Duty Dolly, as I did.

I went to a local Welding Shop and took my Specs with me and a Pix from my LG Compact Combo and I told the Owner of the Welding Shop that the Dolly needed to be able to support approx 250 to 300 pounds, given the Weight of the Washer, Water and Laundry {wet}. The Dolly cost me $200 and it had Heavy Duty Wheels, with Locks on all 4-Wheels and it just fit the Combo, with the bottom of the Unit not quite sitting on the top of the surrounding Edge of the Dolly and I've set the Level Legs to be sitting on the bottom Edge of the Base of the inside of the Dolly.

I looked up the Model Number of a WP/Kenmore Portable Washer, to get the Coupler Faucet Adaptor Unit, to use on my Combo. I've got the Inlet Hose connected to the Cold Connection and I've put a Cap with a Rubber Seal inside it, on the Hot Connection side, just in case it might try to leak Water out of the Hot Connection side.

Now, as far as using an Extension Cord, if you are going to have to use an Extension Cord, be sure to get a Heavy-Duty Cord, that says it is recommended for a 110-Volt Air Conditioner, so it will be able to take the extra Electricity strength of the Washer. Mine fortunately sits in front of my Maytag Built-In Dishwasher and the Recepticle is on the Wall above the Dishwasher.

I have also installed a 110-Volt Kenmore Portable Dryer on top of my LG Compact Combo, because I don't like the Condensor Drying and with the LG Combo operating on 110-Volt it takes way too long to Wash, Dry and Cool-Down.

I've put some Rubber Boots, like what are used on the Ground End of Crutches, on the Level Legs of my Dryer and the LG Combo have a slight Edge around the outer area of the Top, that will still stop the Dryer from falling off, just in case the Load might get Off-Balanced enough to allow the Dryer to "Walk" somewhat. I've never really had it "Walk" except for once and it actually shifted slightly sideways, but it was still on top of the LG Combo.

What I do is Wash my Load of Laundry, then I reset the Washer for an extra Spin on the High Speed of 1400-RPM, so it Extracts as much extra Water out of the Laundry as possible.

I'm actually able to Dry a fairly large Load of even Towels and other Heavy items, within 45-minutes to 1-hour, in the Kenmore Portable Dryer.

I would recommend either a Whirlpool or if still available a Maytag Compact Washer, unless you've got enough space for a full-size Front-Load Washer.

If you've got any further info that you might need or want, please feel free to write to me either here or to my E-Mail Address on my Profile. Good Luck with whatever you end up doing and how things work out for you.

Peace, Kind Regards and Holiday Greetings, Steve
SactoTeddyBear...
 
Charles, are you sure you don't have any electrical outlets under or near the kitchen sink? If you do, plumbing Y-adapters into the hot/cold water inlet valves is a trivial matter.
 
I'd go for a Samsung VRT Front-Loader. If you don't know, VRT stands for Vibration Reduction Technology.
 
Hi Charles.

Here is what I did to fit a full-sized front-loader I had in my house when I moved to a rental apartment.

Added a quick-connect adapter and hoses as typically found on a portabel washer. Since my washer is quite a distance to the facuet/sink, I added this to exisitng hoses for the additional length.

Please disregard the remants of cleansers that stay in my sink 24/7. (Anti-cockroach).
 
water connection.

A simple "Y" connector feess water formt he one inlet hose to the hot and cold side of the machines's water-inlet valve. Be sure to disable "Auto-temp", "Temp-assure, etc when selecting water temperatures on the manchine's control panel.
 
drain side.

Sine the drain-hose end is ribbed ("for her pleasure"), electrical tape ensures a leak-free connection for those annoying occasional drips/drops.

(Those little disks are also part of my anti-roach program!)
 
Here is my line-up of appliances. To the right of the portable DW (which has a quick-connect hose of its own) is a 2 foot (60cm) cabinet. Then comes the sink.

Hope this helps.
 
My Responses To Recent Inquiries About Purchasing & Converti

Hello All:

Again...... How is everyone doing???? Sorry that I haven't gotten back with you all in a timely manner. It's been a busy weekend for me for the week leading up to Christmas.

I had to put in long hours at my Part-Time Job the last two days (try working 29 Hours in two days....... and still have to go to a Full-Time Job come Monday Morning). And I barely have time to get anything done during the week. But that clearly illustrates to point of my having my own washing machine in my own apartment/condo, even though, anytime I want to, I have access to the one downstairs in my building (it belongs to my Grandmother, remember??? :-))

Now...... to the business of answering questions to all who have asked them.

(01). To "SactoTeddyBear" -- Your question is "My first Question to you would be, is your space/area where you can have a Washer sit, would the Machine be there as a permanent fixture, or would you need to move it to your Sink, to hook it up to the Faucet? If you are able to leave the Machine where it sits when not being operated, then you can just adjust Level Legs. If you are going to have to move it around from where it sits not in use to the Sink, then you will have to look into some kind of a Heavy Duty Dolly, as I did."

My answer is....... when the washer is not in operation, it will sit permanently at the end of my kitchen cabinet and will be no more than two footsteps away from my kitchen doorway. I will still need to hook it up to the kitchen faucet when I am getting ready to do a load of wash, and then disconnect it when I am done doing the laundry. I do not plan on rolling my washer to a sink when I am going to hook it up to the water faucet. But at the same time, what I am going to need is a single water connection hose with a faucet adapter to hook my washer up to the water supply when I am ready to use it. All I have to do then is hook up the hose/adapter to the kitchen faucet, place the drain hose into the drain, load the machine, turn it on, and be done with it until the machine finishes the load. From the literatures for models I am interested in, the average weight will be 350 to 450 lbs. (which will include the washer itself, water inside the drum and an 8 to 15 lb washload..... depending on the machine I end up getting).

Also...... if you did get a "Coupler Faucet Adapter Unit" from Whirlpool, does it fit your LG machine without any modifications done to it??? Or you had to make some modifications in order to have it fit the inlet valves on your machine??? If so, then maybe I won't have that problem since one of the machines I am interested in is a 24" Whirlpool Front Loader. I am eyeing the 24" Maytag model as well.

And lastly, the cap that I will need to put on the hot water valve on the washer, is it included with the Coupler Faucet Adapter Unit as well???

(02). To "JeffG": Your question is "Charles, are you sure you don't have any electrical outlets under or near the kitchen sink? If you do, plumbing Y-adapters into the hot/cold water inlet valves is a trivial matter."

My answer is....... Yes....... I am VERY sure. The nearest electrical outlet I plan to use for my washer is located on the wall where my back door is. It also has a light switch for my back porch. The outlet will have to be changed to a three prong outlet (it is currently a two prong one), and I will have to make sure that it can supply the current necessary to run my washer and my dishwasher (and they will not be used at the same time). Being that the washer will sit at the opposite end of the kitchen from where the electrical outlet is, it is likely that I will have to use a heavy appliance rated extension cord as well. As I have said to "Sacto", I do not plan on moving the washer every time I plan to use it. It's going to sit permanently in that one sitting place in the kitchen.

To "funguy10": Your Quote...... "I'd go for a Samsung VRT Front-Loader. If you don't know, VRT stands for Vibration Reduction Technology."

My Answer is....... I will download a brochure on this machine. But I don't think that I'll be buying this machine. It's not I don't like what it does, or how its concept was arrived at. I like everything there is to like about this machine....... well...... except two things......

(01). I believe it is too big for my kitchen.

AND

(02). I don't plan on spending no more than $1,000.00 for my machine ($600.00 to $800.00 is more like it), and the Samsung exceeds that total by almost $300.00 (if I were to go toward the $1,000.00 price limit rather than the $600.00 to $800.00 I really plan to spend on my machine).

To "Toggleswitch2": Your Quote...... "Hi Charles.

Here is what I did to fit a full-sized front-loader I had in my house when I moved to a rental apartment.

Added a quick-connect adapter and hoses as typically found on a portabel washer. Since my washer is quite a distance to the facuet/sink, I added this to exisitng hoses for the additional length.

Please disregard the remants of cleansers that stay in my sink 24/7. (Anti-cockroach).

My response...... WOW....... now that's neat and innovative. That's what I may end up having to do to my machine probably. The machines I am interested in has front mounted controls instead of rear mounted ones...... so it looks like my machine is going to be smaller than yours. But I liked the way you hooked up your Frigidaire Front Loader, though. I also like the idea of using remants of cleanser in your sink to get rid of roaches. Maybe that would be something that I would be willing to try myself. Thanks for the idea.

AND TO ALL........

Right now, I am content with getting a 24" Front Loading Washer, and the ones I like are the Whirlpool WFC7500VW and the Maytag MAH2400AWW (both retail for $750.00). If I can accommodate a full-sized machine in my kitchen (which I seriously doubt that I can), then I am going to look at one of the Frigidaire Gallery Models (if I can find one that has the features that I want, at a price that I can afford), or a Sears Kenmore HE2 ((or HE2t)...... the electronic model that's right below the Kenmore Elite HE5t......... which creeps up toward $1,000.00).

Thanks again for your answers and responses........

And what do any of you think about my washer choices????

Thanks Again and Regards To All........

Happy Holidays.....

--Charles--
 
Hello charles, i have sold over 50 of the Whirlpool WFC7500VW models and i have four friends who have own them, very good machines for under a thousand bucks. They first came around under the name ( Eurotech ) in 2001,02 they had problems from the first generation of the product, but whirlpool got the kinks out. We like them better because of the internal water heater that will heat the water to 140F on cottons, (HEAVEY) wash and it has four wash baffles which is fun to watch pretty cool wash action and they have a higher water level. The Maytag does not have the heater but both machines have 1200 RPM spin speeds. Well all my friends Whirlpool machines are still going strong after 4 years, the only down fall is that if you want to change a cycle you have to wait for it to cycle down and that could take about 4 to 5 min for you to start a new program. It is electromechanical timer inside. But otherwise the washer cleans well and quiet and it rinses well, it's is much different then the Maytag. Good luck! and Happy holidays to you and all. Darren k
 
Tangent: Anti-cockroach.

They tend to like tropical climates, so I keep the place cool.

They like to rub themsleves against all manner of surfaces, so wide-open spaces are the key, so no bags shoved between the refrigerator and the cabinet, for example.

Every night, before bed (and in general) all traces of water must go. The sink is dried and coated with cleanser that contains chlorine (Ajax, Comet, etc). The kitchen garbage can gets doused with cleanser as well. If there is "major" food in in the garbage is removed to the street before bed.

I'm just now too lazy to wipe the sink clean between coats of cleanser.

Boric Acid.
From the junk store for $1. Can be placed in cupboard/cabinets near dishes, food etc. Roaches get it on their feet. They lick their feet clean and get gas from it. They can't pass the gas forward or back (up or dowm) and the pressure rupture their blood-vessels form the inside. BUH-BYE! Some mix it with sugar and apply liberally to cracks and crevices.

I actually grease the palm of the exterminator with something green (and about 20 of them) and take him [by the hand and supervised] to the basment where he sprays the basement and UP to the apartment (following the pipes) below me.

Then there are the roach-bait disks as seen in the frame that follows.

Raches are so common in NYC, multiple-dwellings that allergists routinels test patients test for reaction (allergy) to roach droppings as it is considered a component of dust here.

I'm winning the battles and the war, it appears.
If anyone has any counter-measures or scintific useful tid-bits do please start a new thread!

We now return to our regularly scheduled programme.
 
LOL and to top it off it costs me MORE to live in rental hell (in FAR less space) than half a house cost me.

Divorce. *FEH*
 
LG Washer/Dryer Combination......

"SactoTeddyBear":

About your LG Washer/Dryer Combination????

Could tell me more about your experiences with your unit since you have purchased it???? Its cleanability, performance, ease of operation and reliability???

I have downloaded some literature on this unit at work last night, and has downloaded the Owner's Manual as well.

Even though, everywhere I looked, the price seems to be about $1,500.00 or so. But on "www.compactappliances.com, they're on sale for about $1,300.00 this week.

That's probably a pretty penny to pay for a laundry machine. But now, given my busy lifestyle and all, I no longer have the gumption nor the desire to keep spending whatever little free time I have by wrestling a shopping cart full of dirty clothes to the laundromat. So now, if this machine means that I can have access to my machine anytime I want to, and launder what I want to and desire to launder and all, and that it will be in the convenience in my apartment/condo, then it's going to be worth the price I pay for this machine.

This machine is now on my shortlist as well (the Whirlpool and Maytag 24" Front Load Washers are still in the running).

In closing....... is this what your machine sort of looks like????

"http://us.lge.com/products/model/detail/home appliances_laundry_washer|dryer combos_WM3431HW.jhtml"

--Charles--

Happy Holidays!!!!
 
LG

Hi Charles,
I would stay far away from LG. I had a LG combo, and it leaked various times. The service is so poor. Look in google under LG service nightmare and you can read part of my story. If you do get it you better make sure you can get it serviced in your area. I am also looking for a front load combo. Problem is most places push the LG. I want to find out more about this new malber or the splendide models. It's amazing all the american companies are pushing steam options and other BS but frigidaire or whirlpool won't produce a combo! Makes no sense.
If I was going to get just a washer - I would go with the frigidaire. Good Luck with whatever you decide.
Peter
 
full size Frigidaire

You might want to consider the Frigidaire 2940. One of the three top rated machines by CR. Because of the square door and no bulky door rim, it stays within a standard 27 x 27 footprint. No heater but it does have Auto Temp Control. Saw it on sale at Lowes' website for $548 but I don't remember if that was before or after rebates (in Southern California there is a $125 water rebate for front loaders and a $30 gas rebate). If you live in a non-rebate area, the price could be closer to $700. Because rebates can add up to $155 here, retailers often display the after-rebate price, which cannot be extrapolated to other areas of the country.

I have the 2140 and wish I'd bought the 2940 because Auto Temp Control and Variable Delay Timing are both useful features that my 2140 lacks (otherwise, they are similar). 2140 has an 8 hour delay, but the 2140 has 4-12 hours variable delay. Nice for when you come home late and wish to set up a wash load, but don't have time to wait for it to complete and place in the dryer. I use the feature more than I anticipated when I was shopping for machines three years ago.

The chief reason I went with Frigidaire was that I needed to stack my machines, and Duets in a stack would be 6'8" high. The depth of the machines was not an issue, but would be a factor in a closet installation or in a laundry room with little clearance to spare.

The Frigidaires stack to six feet even and Frigidaire offers a stacking bracket that bolts onto the top of the washer to allow dryer placement (THEIR dryer, of course...). My machines are located along the rear wall of my frost-free garage. The building code here requires a bollard (concrete filled steel pipe embedded in the concrete slab) located in front of rear-wall appliances to protect them from a runaway car (could sever gas lines, etc.).

The bollard was placed smack in the middle of the washer area in 1988, when few if any people here used FL's. The bollard is tall enough to block an FL door, even on a pedestal, so the solution was to stack the machines in the dryer area. The washer area now houses a folding table, and the bollard in front of the table does not affect its utility. One could have the bollard removed, but if/when it came time to sell the house, the house could fail inspection unless a new bollard was placed (and drilling slabs is fraught with hazards).
 
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