GE combination refrigerator help please!

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It sounds like the cold control has indeed failed.  Sadly, this was a weak point in GE refrigerators.   I briefly owned a 1957 LW11P model refrigerator like this and had to replace the cold control but I cannot recall the part number of the replacement control I used was.  It was a Supco control and it took me three tries to wire it in correctly (the generic instructions with the control were not model-specific...).   I'll dig around and see if I kept the information, but I sold the refrigerator (in working condition, of course!) several years ago.  
 
Ditto what Paul said.  I had this same trouble with my '57 GE Combination.  It wouldn't shut off and the serpentine coil in the refrigerator section was growing a thick coating of frost.

 

I got a Gemline replacement cold control through Modern Parts in Parma, OH.  It was a universal fit and had lots of extra parts with it to adapt to various makes and models, but it did the trick.  Modern is a ghost of its former self from what I've read here, so you may have to track down a control on line.  I'll see if I can find the box mine came in.  I know I threw the original GE cold control in there just in case I needed it for reference again in the future.
 
GE Wall Ref That Will Not Shut Off

Hi Jim, What are the temperatures in the ref and freezer sections after it has run for at least 24 hours ?

 

If the freezer section is not -10 to -20 F you probably have a sealed system problem like a weak compressor or at minimum a restricted filter drier, when this happens the ref section may slightly freeze food as well.

 

If ice cream is as hard as a rock and it is freezing things in the ref section you may just have a bad thermostat.

 

John L.
 
Couple questions...

Jameshmcroy; Did this problem develop gradually, or did it happen all at once? Do you know any history on the unit?

 

The thermostat sensing tube is designed to be attached along the aluminum support at the rear edge of the fridge evaporator. There should be a series of clips keeping it in contact with the aluminum. I think I see them in your picture but it is difficult to tell. If the tube isn't touching the aluminum, it will affect the control.

 

On these, the control has a design weakness. The sensing tube is routed straight up from the control into the cabinet.  It's right under the evaporator where water collects. This allows a path for water drips to run along the sensing tube and reach the inside of the control. Yours is still configured routed in this manner. If you determine that the freezer is reaching at least -10 as per John's advice - but the unit isn't cycling off; then you may want to investigate the control for water damage. 

It is best to route the control tube so that there is a "drip loop" to allow and water beads to fall off the sensing tube before they can travel along the tube and get into the control or insulation around the control.

Sincerely,
David
 
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