GE Dryer died..... less than 3 years old!!!

[warmsecondrinse]

I have a GE gas dryer model# GTDX300GM1WS. It matches the no-water washer that drove me here and to my Maytag 710.

It was working just fine until last weekend when I noticed that when the cycle had finished, the clothes were still damp. I ignored it, thinking I'd just set it to "less dry" instead of "more dry" as I'd meant. Clothes were dry at end of second cycle.

Wednesday I threw some towels in and it wouldn't start. I noticed that the knob felt 'mushy' when turned and lacked the resistance it usually has. Also, I felt detents in random places where there usually aren't any. I noticed that the circuit was blown as well. I reset the circuit and there was no change. Dryer doesn't work at all. Is there any kind of reset or reboot I can do? I've tried to locate the troubleshooting manual on-line but have had no luck. Any ideas as to what's wrong or how to locate a troubleshooting manual?

One guy I talked to suggested the timer needed to be replaced. Agree? Disagree? If it's likely the timer, how much much skill is needed to replace it? I haven't pulled the back off the dryer yet as I've been working long evenings.

Thanks,

Jim

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/GE-Parts/Dryer-Parts/WE4M357/0026/363/Model-GTDX300GM1WS/0432/0151200?keySuffixId=&pathTaken=partSearch&pathRender=modelComponent&documentCompId=G1205297&diagramPageId=00001&productTypeId=&searchMode

 

[Chetlaham]

Sounds like it is the timer. Timer replacement is easy if you have a few tools and the skill. We can guide you through it.

 

However, if you have the money I suggest a more durable dryer. GE dryers are nothing but problems. If your looking for something that will last without breaking down go Speed Queen.

 

 

 

[arbilab]

Replacement is typically a couple phillips screws on the cabinet cover and a couple more on the timer itself, prolly under the knob. Then just pull one wire at a time off the old one and put it in the same place on the new one. I did it (unsupervised) to a Westy slantfront washer when I was 9yo.

Given the advice, scope and progression of the problem, timer is a good suspect. Especially the feel of turning the knob. Not sure about the breaker trip. But you can't even get a repairman to show up on your porch for $56, much less do anything.

So while the situation isn't conclusive, replacing timer is the cheapest thing you can try.

 

[combo52]

Non Starting GE Dryer

Hi Jim, are you sure that the timer knob isn't broken, look at the back of it and see if it is cracked, also try turning the timer shaft with a pair of pliers and then see if the dryer starts.

I would not waste the money on a replacement timer unless you know it is bad [ they are easy to check out ] there is a wiring diagram and check out chart inside the control console, while in there look for any loose or shorted wires and as with any 240 volt electric dryer or range that goes completely dead check the power cord connections for loose or burned wires at the terminal block where the installer attached the cord to the dryer.

John L.

 

[thefixer]

It's a 120vac gas dryer.

 

[combo52]

Opps

Thanks Fair Bank, for catching that and Jim disregard checking power cord connections other than making sure it is plugged into a live outlet.

 

[DigAPony]

Well, this is good excuse to dump it and get a Maytag dryer to go along with the A710..

 

[estesguy]

So you're ready to dump this dryer because it needs a $45 timer? Lol, you guys crack me up on here sometimes. GE dryers are very easy to work on. 2 screws and the top comes off, 2 more screws and you can remove the front. Raise the drum slightly and slip the belt off the idler pulley, and you can have the drum removed in less that 5 minutes total. The front glides are $10 for all 4 required. The rear drum bearing is $15. That's all you need to keep it running. I DO agree those infusor wash plate machines were worthless. GE has gone back to the agitator in most machines I've seen. I had a TOL Maytag 810 back in 1983, that had no less than 12 wires coming off the push to start switch, with some kind of convoluted 3 piece internal bake light slider bars, such that the switch had to be replaced every 5-6 years when the slider bars wouldn't stay put, and cut off the heat in the dryer. Every brand can have an issue.

 

[warmsecondrinse]

Thanks, all....

I'll check the knob first as that's the easiest and simplest. If that isn't the issue I'll likely go for the timer. I assume I need to disconnect the gas, or can I just leave it all connected, turn it off and turn it back on when I'm done? I don't think there's a pilot, but haven't checked (ducking and running from Toggleswitch as I'm sure he covered this topic with me regarding some other appliance).

 

The dryer isn't mine. It's part of the estate I'm caretaking. I don't mind buying a timer, but I don't see a point for sinking much more money into it as the dryer is part of the estate and will stay here when I move. I don't really want to buy a replacement unless/until I know what kind of dryer (120/240/gas, vented or not) I'll need in whatever apartment I find.

 

Thanks again. I'll keep you posted.

 

Jim