GE Monitor Top - moving questions

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swestoyz

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Hey guys -

This afternoon I have a chance to pick-up a monitor top GE. I'm planning on bringing it home if it runs. Cord was cut when I saw it earlier this weekend, will wire in a patch cord to test this afternoon.

QUICK QUESTION on moving. From what I've seen from past posts, are the tops removable on these? If so, would two strong guys be able to lift it off? I'm thinking the top probably weighs 200+ which I wouldn't be able to lift by myself.

Model is a CK-1-616. Smaller model with enamel finish, foot pedal, no shelves, but I've never seen one locally so I'm thinking of jumping on it. Anyone know how to date these?

swestoyz++7-25-2011-12-57-25.jpg
 
That's a cute little model and the ideal size for a spare/overflow/drinks fridge.

 

I'm going to guess it's early to mid 30's.  I can't remember when the controls were moved to the front of the shroud as on yours.  Earlier models had a small control box on top of the cabinet.  It may have been a necessity to place controls on the shroud with smaller models since there wasn't room for a box on the top's flat surface.

 

The top should lift right off.  However, if it's been on there for 75 years, it may need coaxing, and it may want to take some of the gasket material with it.  If you can move the whole thing with top in place, that would be your best option but otherwise it will for sure require two men to lift the top.  Be careful of tubing when you set it down, and try to keep it as upright as possible.

 

You're wise to bring a cord to splice on and test out the fridge.  My experience with cut cords has been that they are usually an indicator that the electrical device in question stopped working at some point in the past.
 
This is My CK-30-C16 which is the most deluxe version of the single door.  It has one fixed shelf, a slide out shelf, 4 rubber feet to protect the floor, two crisper bins and the foot pedal.

 

My understanding is that its from the mid 30's.

 

Mine was shipped 1000km, I had them strap the compressor unit to the top with ratchet straps and then they carried it in using piano straps under the legs.  We've tried a couple of times to lift the compressor top and to do it, we'd really need sometime to stand on so you can get the extra lift.  Otherwise it just doesnt move.

 

 

brisnat81++7-25-2011-14-15-44.jpg
 
At some stage, mine has had a new section of cord spliced in between the 110v plug and the compressor.  The problem is that now the original cable above has lost most of it's exterior insulation and whilst I cant see through the fabric that's left, I assume there isnt much left under the fabric coating.  All the wires that run into the control relay are rock hard, so when I try and remove the relay to replace the cord, it could be the end of it's life, if I damage the cable below where it runs into the compressor base.

 

Does anyone know whether the relay lifts up, or drops down for service?

 

Mine was sold by GE in Australia, it has a GE AU quality control stamp on the bottom.  They didnt convert them to 240v however, they just bolted a huge 240 - 110v transformer onto the bottom.  The compressor has a standard american plug on the cord.

 

I love mine, it's a great Party/overflow fridge, with big wide shelves that hold platters.

 

It's best feature is that you can hear the refridgerant boiling in the evaporator, and when it's turned off, it gurgles and burps as the temperature changes in the room.  The joys of SO2 :)

 

I hope my rambles have been of some help.

 

Cheers

 

Nathan

brisnat81++7-25-2011-14-22-39.jpg
 
Ben,

That's a 1935 model I think. Either lift the top up and out with another guy. You could also loosely strap the entire fridge to a dolly, lay it on it's side and pull the top off at that point. Be careful of the refrigerant lines. Also, avoid sitting the top on it's evaporator. I have brought along either a recycle bin or a milk crate for this.

Rewiring these is a royal pain in the butt. The relay pulls up. You will end up bleeding and cussing as you wire since the wiring has hardened by now. The relay acts as a junction point for the 2 conductor power cord, the 2 conductor switch wire, and the 3 conductor compressor lead. I typically use large heat shrink tubing to encapsulate the wiring as far as I can reach it. You'll also end up stripping some of the larger jacket and pigtail some new wiring onto it.
 
She's home

Brought it home this afternoon with the help of my neighbor (thanks Dan!). The top wasn't as heavy as I was expecting, but the evaporator was too large for a milk crate.

Decades old nicotine and filth covered the enamel paint.

swestoyz++7-25-2011-21-05-54.jpg
 
I suspect that this plug would require a pig-tail from the main line for the interior light switch. The cord to the relay is actually in pretty decent shape.

Wish the rest of the cabinet was a porcelain finish like the back panel.

swestoyz++7-25-2011-21-10-43.jpg
 
Interior shot - sans racks. Unfortunately it did not come with racks, and I totally understand parts for these are non-existent. I may take some parts racks and cut them to fit.

All in all, this is a very cool fridge. Always wanted to find a monitor top. If a porcelain finish one doesn't come along in the next year or two I may have this one re-painted.

The sound of the SO2 is very cool, especially when it first kicks on. I've never heard an SO2 system run from a warm start, so it was certainly a treat to hear the evaporator lines flood with coolant as it started to cool.

Ben

swestoyz++7-25-2011-21-14-56.jpg
 
This sure cleaned up well....

I love detailing machines like this one, visible results from all the elbow grease bring quick gratification!  
smiley-wink.gif
 
What exactly is inside the 'monitor top'? Condenser coil? Compressor? Both? How the devil could either of those be removeable without breaching the refrigerant plumbing?
 
How the devil could either of those be removeable

Look closely at the most recent picture posted above.  Notice that there is a lip all around the edge of the top surface.  That's because that entire unit (yes, that's the compressor and condenser inside that shroud), including the evaporator you see inside the cabinet, lifts straight up and off the cabinet. The whole refrigerating mechanism is portable, if you will, although extremely heavy. 

 

It wasn't uncommon for an older cabinet to have a later type of unit sitting on top of it as the result of a change-out due to failure or problems with the original unit.  Almost a modular thing.

 

Maybe somebody has a picture of a top assembly that's off its cabinet.  The earlier units didn't have the shroud and the condenser coil was the most prominent element, winding around the compressor in its center.  I've attached a picture of that type.

 

 

rp2813++7-26-2011-02-51-21.jpg
 

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