GE P7 part identification help

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lee333

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Feb 10, 2022
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4
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I have a GE P7 of unknown vintage. One of the ovens stopped working recently. With some multimeter probing I noticed that voltage stops being supplied to the oven switch from a device that is clipped to the lower heating element. The part number on that part is WB24x138, but that does not produce any useful search results. Can anybody tell me what that part is and if there are any solutions for replacing it?
 
Yes sorry. It's the large self cleaning oven. That device wires in series with a 120V line running to the oven selector switch. And it has wires running to a fan above that oven and to the lock light. I'm guessing it's an overtemperature safety of some type but it's now permanently tripped. Just a guess though. Here is a picture of the model number: J 470C1WH DCZ29534
 
GE. P7 over temperature switch

That over temperature switch should have continuity between the two terminals that the red wires are attached to, if it doesn’t it is bad and needs to be replaced.

These were used on the earlier GE ovens.

The other part of the switch locks out the lock solenoid and turns on the fan when it gets up to cleaning temperature.

And hopefully an eBay search will turn it up under that part number if you can’t find it let me know I might have a good used one.

John L
 
Sounds right and thanks for the help. Thanks for the year identification Lawerence. John L: that part (WB24X138) doesn't show up in ebay or really on the internet at all compared to the other parts I've replaced. Any ideas for similar parts? I'm also considering bypassing it as we're not using the self clean function. Do you know if the safety just for self clean or for general use?
 
The part of the switch that the two red wires attached to is a safety for both the cleaning cycle and for the oven in general keeps the oven temperature from going over about 1000° if something goes wrong with the control system.

Most ovens had no overtemperature safety system especially back when the stove is made so you’d be reasonably safe to bypass it you could even use the clean cycle.

Of course officially I can’t recommend that you do that.
 
Ok so after some work and somewhat randomly replacing things that I could get, I have found that maybe the original problem was the temperature sensor. It measured no resistance. I pulled it apart and measured an unbroken section of wire at about 13 ohms, so I think it fits with info I found online that suggests 15-16 ohms. But I still have a part problem in that I don't know how to search for a part without markings. I tried purchasing a WB21x0158 on ebay, which I thought might be it, but it measured over 1 kohm. I don't know if my part number guess was wrong or if the part I purchased was mislabeled. The other parts I tried replacing are: Themostat Responder part# WB21X176 and Oven Switch Assembly WB22X5098.
 

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