Heads up A gasket maker
- Thread starter jetcone
- Start date
He sells these on eBay, but members here have found that the Coffeemaster C-30 gaskets to not possess the channels for the spring so they are not very long-lived.
Short Lived
The gasket maker has tweaked his formulary after early longevity complaints and is making them of a slightly different design. Anyone who bought an earlier version of the defective silicone gasket can return it for an exchange to the upgraded version
The gasket maker has tweaked his formulary after early longevity complaints and is making them of a slightly different design. Anyone who bought an earlier version of the defective silicone gasket can return it for an exchange to the upgraded version
Kelly, with apologies:
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that spring.
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that spring.
westingman123
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2009
- Messages
- 1,541
Tom! I thought I warned you about making me spew coffee. Oh, that was a good one!
whirlcool
Well-known member
I found that after a year or so the rubber in the seal would melt. I sent the melted seal back and the guy who runs DaySeal said that my Coffeemaster was getting too hot and sent instructions about how to reduce the heat(adjust it). But my Coffeemaster was operating as the instructions he sent said they should. Eventually I gave up and bought a Cory vacuum pot.
If he reformulated the seal, I may be willing to try again. I also see that he reduced his price a little. This is a needed service, I hope they work nicely.
If he reformulated the seal, I may be willing to try again. I also see that he reduced his price a little. This is a needed service, I hope they work nicely.
very interesting points
everyone!
Will take note but Tom has a point that spring was in there for a reason.
everyone!
Will take note but Tom has a point that spring was in there for a reason.
launderess
Well-known member
Am Often Tempted To Wade Into The Automatic Vacpot World Aga
But am that happy with my glass Silexes that don't see the need. Besides prices for Sunbeam C-50's have gone totally mad. A NIB one recently sold for >$200,and while one would agree they make good coffee, so do glass range top units.
But am that happy with my glass Silexes that don't see the need. Besides prices for Sunbeam C-50's have gone totally mad. A NIB one recently sold for >$200,and while one would agree they make good coffee, so do glass range top units.
The C-30s, which were a better-made series, go for much less on eBay.
launderess
Well-known member
YeaBut
Finding one with a decent gasket is like a needle in a haystack.
One thinks word is out about the C-30's as they seem not to do well on fleaPay. Certainly they do not generate the level of activity as C-50's.
Finding one with a decent gasket is like a needle in a haystack.
One thinks word is out about the C-30's as they seem not to do well on fleaPay. Certainly they do not generate the level of activity as C-50's.
I have a spare
C-50 in the attic NIB waiting. But Tom is right the C-30's are fantastic coffeemakers.
You have to buy 3 as 2 will have bad gaskets!
C-50 in the attic NIB waiting. But Tom is right the C-30's are fantastic coffeemakers.
You have to buy 3 as 2 will have bad gaskets!
launderess
Well-known member
Back In The Day
One could get a C-50 off eBay or at a thrift for cheap. Mine came NIB and cost <$50 at the time. Today sellers want big money for units where you can clearly see the plating has started to wear and there is tons of burnt on gunk at the bottom of the lower pot.
That burnt on gunk caused by how the Sunbeam C-50 brews is probably the cause of the plating being destroyed on so many used units. Persons pick the things up for resale and probably scrub the inside of the lower bowl to death in an attempt to remove the residue. What often happens is they start ruining the plate as well.
One could get a C-50 off eBay or at a thrift for cheap. Mine came NIB and cost <$50 at the time. Today sellers want big money for units where you can clearly see the plating has started to wear and there is tons of burnt on gunk at the bottom of the lower pot.
That burnt on gunk caused by how the Sunbeam C-50 brews is probably the cause of the plating being destroyed on so many used units. Persons pick the things up for resale and probably scrub the inside of the lower bowl to death in an attempt to remove the residue. What often happens is they start ruining the plate as well.
That is true Launderess
and also the way the Coffeemaster makes coffee is to blame as well.
When all the water ( most of the water) bubbles up some drips back down , you can hear it. The bottom plate is still very hot, when that water drips down and some coffee will too, it creates a thermal stress around the nut in the center bottom. The coefficient of expansion between the nickel, chrome and copper is different and so this starts the chipping process you see around the nut, even if you never scrub the pot.
As Tom says the plating on the C-30 and prior machines was deeper so they lasted longer. To me its a testament to Sunbeam engineering that of all the Coffeemasters I have owned none have ever failed in the heating department!!
But I agree I have seen pots scrubbed to DEATH - probably with STEEL WOOL!!!
and also the way the Coffeemaster makes coffee is to blame as well.
When all the water ( most of the water) bubbles up some drips back down , you can hear it. The bottom plate is still very hot, when that water drips down and some coffee will too, it creates a thermal stress around the nut in the center bottom. The coefficient of expansion between the nickel, chrome and copper is different and so this starts the chipping process you see around the nut, even if you never scrub the pot.
As Tom says the plating on the C-30 and prior machines was deeper so they lasted longer. To me its a testament to Sunbeam engineering that of all the Coffeemasters I have owned none have ever failed in the heating department!!
But I agree I have seen pots scrubbed to DEATH - probably with STEEL WOOL!!!
The earlier pots had an element with a single nichrome resistance wire in a zig-zag pattern sandwiched between two sheets of mica. This cooled much faster than the later sealed rod type element which had more mass and held heat longer. I generally unplug mine as the water starts up to lessen the thermal stress.
When buying a C30, you always want to see the inside of the lower bowl for the condition of the plating which means that the gasket is flexible enough to allow the upper bowl to be removed.
When buying a C30, you always want to see the inside of the lower bowl for the condition of the plating which means that the gasket is flexible enough to allow the upper bowl to be removed.
maytagbear
Well-known member
Is the C30
the model without the full handle on the upper bowl?
Lawrence/Maytagbear
the model without the full handle on the upper bowl?
Lawrence/Maytagbear
No thats a
C-20. The C-30's have the parallel handles up and down, the C-50's have the flappers. I have a C-40 in my collection, very short lived model with an aluminum upper bowl.
C-20. The C-30's have the parallel handles up and down, the C-50's have the flappers. I have a C-40 in my collection, very short lived model with an aluminum upper bowl.
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