Hoover Ecologic interlock

[hoover1100]

Hi guys,

The interlock on my grandad's A8596 has started playing up. It locks and unlocks but a catch around where the door latch fits seems to get jammed shut, meaning the only way to open it is to pry the lock open from the inside.

I can get a new interlock online, but at nearly £45 I wanted to make sure there is no way to fix the original one and avoid forking out that much on it.

I have had a look at the existing interlock, but I cannot see what is causing it to jam or any way of rectifying it.

Any help much appreciated!

Matt

 

[fido]

What happens if you pull on the wire or spring that connects the button to the interlock? If it opens OK like that you will probably find the linkage is at fault, not the interlock.

 

[hoover1100]

Linkage

Unfortunately that won't open it either, you have to force the latch that connects to the linkage up with a fair bit of force, and the door will open, but with a loud bang rather than the normal dull clunk.

I'll try and remove the interlock altogether and see if I have any luck there, but it seems to be a square bit of plastic surrounding the hole the catch on the door fits into which is getting stuck in a way which stops the mechanism from opening the door without great force.

Matt

 

[hoover1100]

Right

I have determined the problem is the electrical interlock itself, there is a small black button which protrudes to keep the door locked which is catching even when the door is unlocked, taping this over allows the door to open and close as normal but the machine will not run with the button covered over.

I am not worried that doing this will mean the machine no longer locks, so I would like to simply remove the interlock from the circuit and tape the button up so it will not get in the way of the catch.

There are 3 wires connecting to the interlock, a pink one with an L above it, a red and white striped one with a C above it, and a black N wire in the middle.

I am assuming to bypass the interlock I would need to attach the red and white striped and the pink wires together to continue the circuit, but what should I do with the neutral wire?

Matt

 

[fido]

Try disconnecting the tube from the interlock to the pressure vessel. If there is a blockage in the pressure vessel the tube might be staying pressurised.

 

[fido]

Sorry, I only just saw your last post. Yes, you can connect the C and L wires together but I'm not sure if tape will work on the locking button. I would probably dismantle the interlock and remove the button.

 

[hoover1100]

Thank you

So would I just connect those two and leave the neutral hanging loose?

I thought about dismantling it but there are no screws, it appears to be sealed together, I'll try the tape again but if that doesn't work I shall look into dismantling it some more!

Oddly enough, the interlock on this machine has no connection to the pressure vessel, the door will still unlock with the water at high level.

Even with the lock disconnected though, the machine will only open when the dial is at the end of a programme or on the tumble drying section, so it isn't all that necessary anyway!

Matt

 

[fido]

You can leave the neutral connected if the C and L wires are removed. With the insulating sleeves slid back or detached you can squash the female spade connectors slightly with pliers and you will find they will plug into each other. You then tape up the joint and Bobs your proverbial. It might be worth writing a note on the inside of the lid with pencil to remind yourself which wire is which.
They usually clip together but I can't remember what your interlock is like. A few are riveted.

 

[electron1100]

bypassing door interlocks

Hello Matt

All the hoover 3 wire door interlocks need only two wires connected to bypass them the 3rd wire (whatever colour it is) is for the bi-metallic door lock, so once you have sorted out which pair you need you can either follow the 3rd spare wire back to the programmer and remove it all together or just tape it up securely, without digging out a manual i would go for Pink & Red the worst you can do by connecting the wrong wires is you will blow the fuse in the plug, which i have done on a few Hoover machines coz i coudnt be bothered to look up the wiring, the colour of the wires is arbitary.

All my machines had there door delay interlocks by-passes irritating things

Anyway if it goes tits up i will drag a manual down frm the loft and have a look
Gary

 

[hoover1100]

Thank you to both of you for all your help!

I have attached the red and pink wires together, taped up the neutral and taped the button on the interlock so it no longer gets in the way of the catch. The door now opens and closes perfectly, with the added benefit of the machine starting instantly when the power button is pressed, and being able to open the machine as soon as the programme ends!

As much as this machine is special to me, I still can't wait to get my logic up north from Plymouth, just need to do the suspension repair and it will be in daily use up here again! (That timeline belt you gave me worked a treat to sort out the programmer thanks Gary!)

Matt

 

[supermaticjames]

I'm going to do this to my A8572 tomorrow while I'm doing some work in the shed, the bimetallic lock is useless when the timer interlocks the door anyway.

James.

 

[rolls_rapide]

Hoover machines had dual locking mechanisms as a safety feature.

Mechnically: by the programmer dial and linkage rods physically blocking movement;
Electrically: by means of the bimetallic heater lock assembly.

Later machines, such as the New Wave, featured both pneumatic (water level actuated) and drum motion (Bowden cable) interlocks.

Cheap nasty machines, such as Candy, had ONE lock (bimetallic heater lock). On a Rinse Hold, the door could be opened, allowing an impromptu floor cleaning session. It happened to my sister a few times...

This couldn't happen by accident with the Hoover machines.