Kenmore Dryer Problem

[whirlcool]

A friend of ours has a Kenmore dryer:

Model Number: 110 72952100
Serial: ML2908813

The dryer stopped working. His wife said it made a pop noise and stopped. It's a gas dryer. I looked at it and when you turn it on there is no noise or anything, but the dryers drum light is on. I turned the drum and it turned very easily, I suspect a belt. But if it's only the belt, shouldn't the motor be running? In this case the motor does not run when the dryer is turned on.

Also does anyone know what year model this is?

Thanks!

 

[pierreandreply4]

Picture?

did you check to see if the motor as not burn out or if you can hear the familiar click when you turn the timer dial of the dryer?

 

[DADoES]

 

Allen, this is a 27" Whirly design.  They have a belt-break protector switch and won't run if the belt breaks.

 

You can look up a parts breakdown at http://www.searspartsdirect.com<a> for model 110.72952100 or 11072952100 (include the period or not, but a blank space won't search).  The belt switch is on the cabinet diagram, #5 and #23.</a>

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[DADoES]

 

Serial number ML29 is 29th week of 2001.

 

[whirlcool]

Thanks for the info. My friend has ordered a belt and I sent him a video of how to change it out. He's a handy guy and shouldn't have any trouble doing the job as it seems quite simple. I also reminded him to vacuum the dryer out and clean the hose when he does this job.

My friend and his wife were getting ready to go out an buy a new washer & dryer set.
So he's happy that I saved him at least $600.00!

 

[pierreandreply4]

just a fact

he was lucky to be able to fix it as most repair tech today would recomend buying a new washer dryer set i know that what i will be doing when my duet washer and dryer set breaks

 

[whirlcool]

Does the belt switch have to be in contact with the belt when it's replaced? Or is it just a sensor that's in contact with the drum?

 

[DADoES]

 

IIRC, the idler bracket is what contacts the switch actuator.  The switch "deactivates" when the belt breaks and the idler looses spring tension.  There is no direct contact between the switch and the belt or the drum.  I can pull the panel tomorrow on my Calypso-match dryer for a look-see and picture if necessary.

 

[whirlcool]

So if you install the idler with the belt on it, the switch should activate again and the dryer should work. (?)

I watched a few Youtube videos of how the job is done and sent them to my friend.
I'll probably go over there to assist when he does the job.

And you are right about repair people just telling you to buy a new set. When my agitator dogs went out on my Whirlpool TL machine, that's what they told me! Just buy a new machine. Hmph! For about $25.00 and 20 minutes of my time I bought a agitator overhaul kit and put it in.

Quite a few people have realized that I am into washers and dryers. Occasionally I get asked about what they should replace their current machines with. I tell them just fix what you have, it'll be a lot better than what they could buy new, except for Miele. And when I mention Miele prices, their hair stands up and eyes bug out!

 

[pierreandreply4]

thats good advice me i think that if the set i have breaks and i buy a new 1 i thing that i would try and find a rebuild vintage set like the 70 westinghouse tl washer vintage inglis whirlpool ge ff (since i have pets) kenmore but what i love of the tl 70 westinghouse and kenmore is the fact the lid opens on the side and they where ment to last longer. lol

 

[whirlcool]

I grew up with dogs, and my parents had a GE FF for quite a few years. Nothing removes pet hair as well as a Filter Flo!
We have a Whirlpool TL machine and the dryer catches almost all the dog hair. But I think in this day and age that's how it's designed to be.

I look at it this way, most parts for washers & dryers are pretty inexpensive. It's the labor that costs. If you can repair it yourself you are always gonna be money ahead.

 

[DADoES]

 

Replacing the belt, routing it properly through the idler assembly, will reset the switch.