Kitchenaid Imperial by Hobart dishwasher. Model KDI-56
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KDI-16 With Soak Cycle
This was the very first KA DW to have a 750 Watt Booster heater than ran during the cycle, except for the KDS-15 and the KDS-16.
After this KA dropped the water heater in the KDC and KDI 17s and KDC and KDI 18s, KA was THE LAST US DW maker to build a home DW that did not have a heater to boost the water temperature across the line, for this reason I would never have anything except a Superba among these 60s and 70s KA models.
This was the very first KA DW to have a 750 Watt Booster heater than ran during the cycle, except for the KDS-15 and the KDS-16.
After this KA dropped the water heater in the KDC and KDI 17s and KDC and KDI 18s, KA was THE LAST US DW maker to build a home DW that did not have a heater to boost the water temperature across the line, for this reason I would never have anything except a Superba among these 60s and 70s KA models.
What exactly was behind the logic of Kitchenaid dishwashers not heating water until so late in the game? Have looked into and was often tempted to go after a nice vintage KA/Hobart portable but after hearing they don't heat water was put off. Am not going to stand around before each cycle and purge the hot water lines to get 120F or 140F water.
Launderess, I imagine the 'resistance' to such an idea might just be it was an assumption that everyone had their water heater set quite hot, at least before the energy crisis, and departure of Cheap-Energy.
That, or Hobart believed people would be buying into reliability, and not so much cleaning capability or convenience features.
Some might suggest that because their commercial machines were connected to very hot water, then so should their residential models.
I think Hobart might have just been lazy in the end - the water heating system they created doesn't seem to be all that spectacular, given the impression I've seen here.
Heating the short Pre-Wash WITHOUT running the pump, not heating the Main-Wash, then heating the Final Rinse just seems like a pathetic excuse to claim you have "automatic water heating," and not an ingenious way to guarantee clean dishes 100% of the time.
John, given the large quantity of water involved in a typical fill, short washing time and the lower power of the 700w heater, would the boost produced by the heater be at all significant in terms of washing ability at all?
I imagine you'd get better results just getting a machine with TRUE automatic heater (Washing + Heating) rather than this machine. What do you think?
That, or Hobart believed people would be buying into reliability, and not so much cleaning capability or convenience features.
Some might suggest that because their commercial machines were connected to very hot water, then so should their residential models.
I think Hobart might have just been lazy in the end - the water heating system they created doesn't seem to be all that spectacular, given the impression I've seen here.
Heating the short Pre-Wash WITHOUT running the pump, not heating the Main-Wash, then heating the Final Rinse just seems like a pathetic excuse to claim you have "automatic water heating," and not an ingenious way to guarantee clean dishes 100% of the time.
John, given the large quantity of water involved in a typical fill, short washing time and the lower power of the 700w heater, would the boost produced by the heater be at all significant in terms of washing ability at all?
I imagine you'd get better results just getting a machine with TRUE automatic heater (Washing + Heating) rather than this machine. What do you think?
Did Some Research
According to a consumer advice report one read from the 1960's or so (it was about saving on energy bills in particular hot water), the author queried top dishwasher manufacturers and makers of detergents as to why machines needed water at 140F to 150F.
According to the responses it was universally agreed that the types of soils found on dishes (fats, tallows, etc...) do not dissolve at temps <130F. The dishwasher detergents on the market at that time did not dissolve at temps <115F or so.
Most all dishwashers then had 700w heaters that could do little more than maintain water temp, not raise it. This is because of simple math; the heaters had only enough power to raise water temps about degree Fahrenheit for each minute. With wash cycles usually between seven or nine minutes you would only end up with taking say 120F water to about 130F or less before the cycle was over. At that time there were only two domestic dishwashers equipped with thermostats that would hold timers until the proper wash or rinse temperature was reached. One was Westinghouse, cannot remember the other.
With such low heating power it would take about 35 or forty minutes for dishwashers to take 120F (or less) water up to the required minimum of 140F.
Some households/housewives did balk at having their water heaters set to 140F or above for reasons ranging from cost to possible scalding burns. What the author of the piece did was install an inline tankless heater to the hot water line that fed the dishwasher. This enabled him to lower the thermostat on his water heater to 125F but still allow for 140F water for the dishwasher.
According to a consumer advice report one read from the 1960's or so (it was about saving on energy bills in particular hot water), the author queried top dishwasher manufacturers and makers of detergents as to why machines needed water at 140F to 150F.
According to the responses it was universally agreed that the types of soils found on dishes (fats, tallows, etc...) do not dissolve at temps <130F. The dishwasher detergents on the market at that time did not dissolve at temps <115F or so.
Most all dishwashers then had 700w heaters that could do little more than maintain water temp, not raise it. This is because of simple math; the heaters had only enough power to raise water temps about degree Fahrenheit for each minute. With wash cycles usually between seven or nine minutes you would only end up with taking say 120F water to about 130F or less before the cycle was over. At that time there were only two domestic dishwashers equipped with thermostats that would hold timers until the proper wash or rinse temperature was reached. One was Westinghouse, cannot remember the other.
With such low heating power it would take about 35 or forty minutes for dishwashers to take 120F (or less) water up to the required minimum of 140F.
Some households/housewives did balk at having their water heaters set to 140F or above for reasons ranging from cost to possible scalding burns. What the author of the piece did was install an inline tankless heater to the hot water line that fed the dishwasher. This enabled him to lower the thermostat on his water heater to 125F but still allow for 140F water for the dishwasher.
mandab
New member
KDI-56 now squealing after many good years - please help
This is my actual dishwasher in this pic. I went and bought it from a young couple who were redoing the original kitchen in their new home. It's been great, but has recently started making a slight high pitched squeal, so I've stopped using it until I can get it going safely again. Any ideas on what to look for, as well as possible parts sources? I look forward to getting it back up and running, & appreciate help anyone might be able to give. Thanks!
This is my actual dishwasher in this pic. I went and bought it from a young couple who were redoing the original kitchen in their new home. It's been great, but has recently started making a slight high pitched squeal, so I've stopped using it until I can get it going safely again. Any ideas on what to look for, as well as possible parts sources? I look forward to getting it back up and running, & appreciate help anyone might be able to give. Thanks!
bradfordwhite
Well-known member
Did you inspect the pump area as maybe something fell into the area such as a spoon or piece of glass.
Otherwise, it's probably the bearings in the motor of this 50 year old machine.
Would need a new motor.
How are the racks? Are they original? Any pics?
Otherwise, it's probably the bearings in the motor of this 50 year old machine.
Would need a new motor.
How are the racks? Are they original? Any pics?
mandab
New member
That's what I was afraid of, needing a new motor, as when I searched screeching etc, that's what I'd found. I have looked down inside of it for stray items, as I do regularly just to be careful, but nothing there. It has everything original on it. Is there a way I could get the bearings replaced, lubricated, etc? My SO is handy at these type things, so I wasn't sure if that might be an option. Thank you for your reply!
mandab
New member
Pics
Everything works well on it..it has 2 broken prongs (not sure if the correct term) but I still have 1 of them, possibly both. If that matters to anyone,lol. The rubber gasket down inside under the basket is starting to look worn as well. I really hope we can pop some new bearings in and take off into the sunset together. Thanks again for your help
Everything works well on it..it has 2 broken prongs (not sure if the correct term) but I still have 1 of them, possibly both. If that matters to anyone,lol. The rubber gasket down inside under the basket is starting to look worn as well. I really hope we can pop some new bearings in and take off into the sunset together. Thanks again for your help
Squealing KA DW
It is either a pump problem or motor bearings, First look under the machine at the motor to see if water has been leaking over the motor for a period of time [ you will see lots of corrosion damage ] If it looks OK underneath disassemble the pump from inside the machine and remove both impellers.
Then turn off the water to the DW and run the motor to see how it sounds, if it sounds fine replace the drain impeller and seal [ get new parts ] if it is still noisy get another motor [ you will still ned new drain impeller and seal.
John L.
It is either a pump problem or motor bearings, First look under the machine at the motor to see if water has been leaking over the motor for a period of time [ you will see lots of corrosion damage ] If it looks OK underneath disassemble the pump from inside the machine and remove both impellers.
Then turn off the water to the DW and run the motor to see how it sounds, if it sounds fine replace the drain impeller and seal [ get new parts ] if it is still noisy get another motor [ you will still ned new drain impeller and seal.
John L.
bradfordwhite
Well-known member
It's impressive that two small spots is all the damage there is.
If you want to maintain them and keep them from further rusting which will stain your dishes and the dishwasher:
1. get some repair material solution.
2. cut off or clean the heavily rusted areas with a wire brush.
3. clean the area with rubbing alcohol.
4. coat liberally with the solution leaving no gaps.
5. recoat if desired.
6. let air dry for a couple of days.
[this post was last edited: 6/5/2020-12:11]
If you want to maintain them and keep them from further rusting which will stain your dishes and the dishwasher:
1. get some repair material solution.
2. cut off or clean the heavily rusted areas with a wire brush.
3. clean the area with rubbing alcohol.
4. coat liberally with the solution leaving no gaps.
5. recoat if desired.
6. let air dry for a couple of days.
[this post was last edited: 6/5/2020-12:11]
mandab
New member
Thank you!
@bradfordwhite That's awesome about the repair coating-didn't realize that was a thing, but I'm definitely going to check it out!
@combo52 Thanks so much for the detailed instructions! I hope to pull it out and take a look over the weekend.
Y'all have a great weekend!
@bradfordwhite That's awesome about the repair coating-didn't realize that was a thing, but I'm definitely going to check it out!
@combo52 Thanks so much for the detailed instructions! I hope to pull it out and take a look over the weekend.
Y'all have a great weekend!
