Lady Kenmore Transmission Help
- Thread starter lebron
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Won't agitate either?
Hi Jed, I am the member who Gordon was referring to regarding a recent transmission rebuild. I'm sorry your having such a difficult time. I got a little lost in the sequence of events, but did you say that the machine will not agitate as well when the transmission mounting bolts are fully in? If so there is something else wrong, and I think the T-bearing has something to do with it. Gordon/John please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think the bronze bearing will work with this transmission. Also, I didn't see the spacer in the bolt that sits next to the yoke (but that could be my eyes!). If the spacer is missing that can also cause a bind as the transmission is pushed up too far on that side.
Just some thoughts. Good luck!
Hi Jed, I am the member who Gordon was referring to regarding a recent transmission rebuild. I'm sorry your having such a difficult time. I got a little lost in the sequence of events, but did you say that the machine will not agitate as well when the transmission mounting bolts are fully in? If so there is something else wrong, and I think the T-bearing has something to do with it. Gordon/John please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think the bronze bearing will work with this transmission. Also, I didn't see the spacer in the bolt that sits next to the yoke (but that could be my eyes!). If the spacer is missing that can also cause a bind as the transmission is pushed up too far on that side.
Just some thoughts. Good luck!
Hi alan thank you for your response. Im not sure about it not agitating. I filled it once with water and it wouldnt with the transmission comepletely tight. I assume it would work when it was lose but maybe that is a poor assumption. Interesting comment concerning the t bearing. Right now i am using the steel collar and bronze t that came with this transmission. Maybe i should order the new white one? Finally which bolt are you referring to that is missing the spacer? The large bolt that has the clutch adjustment nut? What can i use as a spacer? Where does the spacer belong?
Good morning Jed --- what's left of it...
I looked at your pictures, I don't see anything glaring at me in regard to the install of the basket drive on the gearcase, and I looked at the centerpost inside pics too.
It looks like you may have some rust developing inside the centerpost, but some of the grease WP used was reddish orange, so that stuff immediately above be bearing may be grease, I can't say for sure. You may be wise to replace the centerpost seal at the very top, that is a large part of what allows water into the centerpost, that and the spin tube seal.
Your spin tube is not damaged or corroded, which is great. Clean it well and re-lube it, it looks VERY dry, as do the bearings. Drop about a teaspoon of turbine oil above each bearing, and put more on the bearing surfaces and liberally all over the spin tube (once you clean it). Oil the bearings with the machine on its side and don't upright it until the spin tube is in or the oil will run out.
In pic number 31, that circular spot is the braking surface for the brake pad to rub against. The brake pad is on the top of the basket drive. Clean both well and you'll have a more effective brake. Don't be surprised if when you finally have the machine running properly, that you hear a bit of grit during the braking process. This happens sometimes after "major surgery". Little grains of dirt leftover from all the work amplify themselves seemingly 1000 times when they're in between the brake components, and you hear it all over the machine. They work themselves out eventually.
The reason the machine spins with the gearcase loose is because the basket drive parts are tightly gripping each other until the final few turns of the trans bolts. These last few turns do the same thing as pushing in a car clutch pedal. This last distance is what brings the clutch pads off the pulley surface. It will also engage the brake.
Al brings up an interesting point --- the spacer should have fallen out as soon as you removed the lowest of the three gearcase bolts. It often makes a racket on the cabinet when that bolt comes out. Out of curiosity, how many unused parts do you have left? If you haven't been using the spacer on the short leg of the three gearcase mounting rods, chances are very good that you'll have the gearcase in a major bind. The short one of the three is the one facing the front of the cabinet. Put the spacer in the gap between the transmission and the mounting stud, and thread the bolt though the gearcase hole and the spacer. It should properly tighten together.
Let us know what's next Jed!
Gordon
I looked at your pictures, I don't see anything glaring at me in regard to the install of the basket drive on the gearcase, and I looked at the centerpost inside pics too.
It looks like you may have some rust developing inside the centerpost, but some of the grease WP used was reddish orange, so that stuff immediately above be bearing may be grease, I can't say for sure. You may be wise to replace the centerpost seal at the very top, that is a large part of what allows water into the centerpost, that and the spin tube seal.
Your spin tube is not damaged or corroded, which is great. Clean it well and re-lube it, it looks VERY dry, as do the bearings. Drop about a teaspoon of turbine oil above each bearing, and put more on the bearing surfaces and liberally all over the spin tube (once you clean it). Oil the bearings with the machine on its side and don't upright it until the spin tube is in or the oil will run out.
In pic number 31, that circular spot is the braking surface for the brake pad to rub against. The brake pad is on the top of the basket drive. Clean both well and you'll have a more effective brake. Don't be surprised if when you finally have the machine running properly, that you hear a bit of grit during the braking process. This happens sometimes after "major surgery". Little grains of dirt leftover from all the work amplify themselves seemingly 1000 times when they're in between the brake components, and you hear it all over the machine. They work themselves out eventually.
The reason the machine spins with the gearcase loose is because the basket drive parts are tightly gripping each other until the final few turns of the trans bolts. These last few turns do the same thing as pushing in a car clutch pedal. This last distance is what brings the clutch pads off the pulley surface. It will also engage the brake.
Al brings up an interesting point --- the spacer should have fallen out as soon as you removed the lowest of the three gearcase bolts. It often makes a racket on the cabinet when that bolt comes out. Out of curiosity, how many unused parts do you have left? If you haven't been using the spacer on the short leg of the three gearcase mounting rods, chances are very good that you'll have the gearcase in a major bind. The short one of the three is the one facing the front of the cabinet. Put the spacer in the gap between the transmission and the mounting stud, and thread the bolt though the gearcase hole and the spacer. It should properly tighten together.
Let us know what's next Jed!
Gordon
Bob Dylan!
That's a good reason to put off the project. Great musician! Enjoy the concert!
That's a good reason to put off the project. Great musician! Enjoy the concert!
Hey Jed,
What's the latest on your project? Any progress?
Gordon
What's the latest on your project? Any progress?
Gordon
bendixmark
Well-known member
no spin
I used to run into this problem all the time years ago.When I install the transmission and basket drive,with the machine laying down I would install the bolts five turns then stand the machine up and give the bolts three turns each going in a circle until they are tight keeping in mind the two bolts without the spacer do most of the carrying up of the transmission.Once the transmission is bolted in I would lay the machine back down and manually engage the transmission into spin by pushing up the spin solenoid plunger and turning the transmission pulley until the spin cambar is fully extended.With this done I would pull down on the basket drive pulley.The brake drum should drop down away from the bottom of the basepate about an eighteenth of an inch.The basket drive should now turn freely by hand and and you should be able to turn the upper brake lining on the brakedrum easily with your fingernail.There is no reason the bronze bearing and platform on there now shouldnt work.It is actually a more solid system than the t-bearing and ball.If the basket drive doesnt turn now then you have a misalignment still.loosen the bolts again with the machine standing up and retighten one turn at a time this time.The only other thing that might cause this would be if the setscrew in the brakedrum has broken or backed out slightly,this will cause the brake drum to drag on the baseplate all the time.The big nut on the clutch shaft is to adjust the height of the three drive pads above the spinning basketdrive pulley.This should be about a sixteenth of an inch or just enough so they arent touching.Before all this I would thoroughly clean that shaft with wd40 and the bearings as well then apply a small amount of turbine oil to the centerost bearings.I would also replace the top centerpost bearing seal which was also suggested not to steal anyones thunder.If possible I would replace that basket drive with the newer version with the round clutchplate,not only that I would use the one with the green springs as that has way more grab to take off.Hope that helps.Somebody said they saw Bob Dylan this weekend I saw the Doobie Brothers top that!
I used to run into this problem all the time years ago.When I install the transmission and basket drive,with the machine laying down I would install the bolts five turns then stand the machine up and give the bolts three turns each going in a circle until they are tight keeping in mind the two bolts without the spacer do most of the carrying up of the transmission.Once the transmission is bolted in I would lay the machine back down and manually engage the transmission into spin by pushing up the spin solenoid plunger and turning the transmission pulley until the spin cambar is fully extended.With this done I would pull down on the basket drive pulley.The brake drum should drop down away from the bottom of the basepate about an eighteenth of an inch.The basket drive should now turn freely by hand and and you should be able to turn the upper brake lining on the brakedrum easily with your fingernail.There is no reason the bronze bearing and platform on there now shouldnt work.It is actually a more solid system than the t-bearing and ball.If the basket drive doesnt turn now then you have a misalignment still.loosen the bolts again with the machine standing up and retighten one turn at a time this time.The only other thing that might cause this would be if the setscrew in the brakedrum has broken or backed out slightly,this will cause the brake drum to drag on the baseplate all the time.The big nut on the clutch shaft is to adjust the height of the three drive pads above the spinning basketdrive pulley.This should be about a sixteenth of an inch or just enough so they arent touching.Before all this I would thoroughly clean that shaft with wd40 and the bearings as well then apply a small amount of turbine oil to the centerost bearings.I would also replace the top centerpost bearing seal which was also suggested not to steal anyones thunder.If possible I would replace that basket drive with the newer version with the round clutchplate,not only that I would use the one with the green springs as that has way more grab to take off.Hope that helps.Somebody said they saw Bob Dylan this weekend I saw the Doobie Brothers top that!
Mark -
I haven't heard from Jed in the last couple days, but we took the discussion off-line as you can see above.
Turns out the culprit was the T-bearing retaining collar, which was stuck on the agitator shaft about 5 milimeters above its normal position (even without the set screw), thus the whole drive was being forced to sit too high by the same distance.
We discussed cleaning and lubing the spin tube, bearings, etc. I don't know what the final result is or was.
Gordon
I haven't heard from Jed in the last couple days, but we took the discussion off-line as you can see above.
Turns out the culprit was the T-bearing retaining collar, which was stuck on the agitator shaft about 5 milimeters above its normal position (even without the set screw), thus the whole drive was being forced to sit too high by the same distance.
We discussed cleaning and lubing the spin tube, bearings, etc. I don't know what the final result is or was.
Gordon
bendixmark
Well-known member
collar stuck
Heat it with a torch.
Heat it with a torch.
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