LG Washer - Does it have a sanitary cycle via downloaded cycle?

[batman]

Hello everyone, I'm currently deciding between two LG washers - the WM5500HVA and the WM3600HWA. Since the WM3600HWA is more affordable, I'd prefer to purchase it, but only if I can confirm it has proper sanitizing capabilities.

My specific concerns center around the LG WM3600HWA model:

1. The WM3600HWA model doesn't have a sanitary cycle on its dial, and it's not listed in the owner's manual as a standard cycle. However, the washer does have both an "extra hot" temperature setting and a heating element.

2. I'm concerned that simply selecting the "extra hot" temperature won't maintain the heat throughout the wash cycle, which is necessary for proper sanitization. Though the presence of a heating element suggests sanitization should be possible.

3. While this model supports downloadable cycles, I can't confirm if the "eco sanitize" cycle is available for it. According to LG's website (https://www.lg.com/us/support/help-...ing-machine-cycles-and-options--1337797444134), the eco sanitize cycle sanitizes laundry and uses Extra Hot temperature (158°F), but its availability varies by washer model. The manual only mentions "downloaded" as an option without providing specifics.

4. I'd like to know if this downloadable "eco sanitary" cycle is equivalent to the standard "sanitize" cycle found on other models like the WM5500HVA.

Can anyone help clarify these points? Having a sanitary cycle is essential for my needs, and I'd love to save money with the WM3600HWA if it can provide the same sanitizing capabilities as the more expensive WM5500HVA. Thanks.

 

[DADoES]

 
I expect that household/consumer frontloaders with heaters typically don't actively maintain a target temperature for x period of time.  They heat to a temp then are done with heating for the remaining duration of the wash period.

I'm sure someone will advise if there are models that reheat to maintain a temp.

 

[appnut]

I have LG WM4200H since Fall 2021. On my machine, if I select simultaneously the delay wash and temp buttons, I can display the temperature in the sump in C. This allows me to monitor temperature. the Allergiene cycle yields a higher temperature than my Sanitary cycle. Allergiene combines water heating as well as steam. Resulting temperature ranges from 69C to 72C. Allergiene removes any ability to select a soil level. Sanitary, at lowet to heaviest soil level yields temperatures ranging from 58C to 68. On Sanitary, once 68C is reached, the heater does not come back on to maintain temperature.

Extra Hot is an available selection for Normal and Heavy Duty. Select heaviest soil level and extra hot could yield temps of 68C. Allergiene offers temperatures as high as 72C.

Again, other than Allergiene, all other cyccles that use Extra Hot tops out at 68C.

 

[batman]

Thanks for the responses!

From what I understand, both the Sanitary cycle and a Normal or Heavy Duty cycle with Extra Hot temperature reach similar temperatures (around 68°C) before the heating element shuts off. This suggests I might not need a dedicated Sanitary cycle.

My research on laundry sanitization indicates:
- 140°F (60°C) needs to be maintained for at least 30 minutes
- At 158°F (70°C), the time requirement drops to just 10-15 minutes

This suggests that a washer with Extra Hot temperature might be sufficient, provided the temperature doesn't drop too quickly after the heating element shuts off.

My follow-up question: Have you monitored the temperature throughout the entire wash cycle? I'm particularly interested in how quickly the temperature drops after the heating element shuts off in the Normal/Heavy Duty with Extra Hot, Sanitary, and Allergiene cycles.

 

[appnut]

The temperature does decline fairly quickly. There is no way to maintain the temperature such that it's a consistent 158F for 10 to 15 minutes. Maybe 4 or 5 minutes at best. You would need a Miele or Asko washer to maintain a consistent temperature for the sanitization parameters you need to adhere to. The Allergiene cycle MAY maintain a temperature of 158 for 10 to 15 minutes once the 158F is reached because the Allergene continues to heatabpve 158 before the heater turns off. . You obviously have parameters which must be met. Me, I'm just happy to have the water reach 158 or 160 and be that for 4 to 5 minutes max at best once the thermostat turs off the heater.

Regular hot for Whites, Bedding, Perm Press, Towels, the heater will only come on if it needs to heat water and that set temp is 112F. Warm is 90F. On Normal & Heavy Duty, the heater will only come on if Extra Hot is selected. All done by design to minimize heater use. That explains why LG's energy guide for these washers is 105 KWH/year vs. Whrilpool & Maytag comparable figure of 140 kwh/year.[this post was last edited: 2/18/2025-01:01]

 

[batman]

Appreciate all the data points you've provided.

If the temperature reaches 158°F for a few minutes, some temperature drop-off should be acceptable as long as it maintains 140°F for about 20 minutes. At least, that's my understanding.

The WM3600HWA includes the Allergiene cycle, and with its higher temperature, it might actually maintain 140°F+ for a sufficient duration.

Now I "simply" need to determine if the WM3600HWA is capable of maintaining these temperatures.

Based on this discussion, I don't need to consider the more expensive WM5500HVA. The Sanitary cycle on the 5500 appears to be no different from using Extra Hot temperature on Normal/Heavy Duty cycle. If the 3600 can't maintain the required temperatures long enough, then the 5500 likely wouldn't either. Plus, I suspect the 3600 has a downloadable Sanitary cycle based on its specs.

 

[henene4]

Temperature drop off is quicker the higer the temperature difference between the ambient and the tub is.
Smaller loads would also mean quicker drop off as there is less thermal mass and thus less heat energy storage with the same surface area for that to go through.

On the other hand, depending on cycle and cycle design, bigger loads might slow down heating to the point it might not even reach that high of a temp.
On the other hand, the longer it has to heat, the longer it spends heating beyond 140F and thus above that temp.

Lots of factors there.
If the concern is about sanitisation, keep in mind the NSF criteria can be met without a heater and some oxygen bleach additive.
So combining any of the above mentioned cycles with an oxygen bleach additive should in all certainty suffice to reach NSF criteria.

If any bleaching additive is out of question (colored bedding or such), one could estimate the rate of temp climb to be about 1F/min.
That would mean the washer would take about 15-18min to heat from 140F to 158F.
That should give you at least 20min above 140F, probably more like 25min.

 

[combo52]

Sanitizing very dirty laundry

All it takes is a quarter cup of bleach in the bleach dispenser to sanitize clothing with far less energy and time wasted.

It also makes the washer last much longer. You’ll never get a gunky buildup on the spider which can destroy it and lead to major failure of the machine.

Just be sure to use real bleach not the diluted stuff.

John L

 

[mrboilwash]

Isn`t electrolysis the process to manufacture the bleach an energy consuming process too?
I wonder how much less energy is really used when using bleach compared to thermal sanitation in a modern efficient front loader.
If you factor in the additional wear on fabrics and the environmental impact of the chemical I suppose it doesn`t look so good for the bleach.

Never checked the spider but judging from the pump trap my washer must be clean as a whistle.
No bleach ever, mostly liquid detergents in abundance, FS sparingly and regular 95° C washes seem to do the trick just as well.

 

[batman]

henene4, you're right - there are many factors to consider, and you've brought some new ones to my attention. I hadn't considered the time needed to heat from 140°F to 158°F.

Combo52, you make a good point. For sanitizing laundry, I prefer thermal sanitization. For cleaning the washing machine itself, I use either bleach or Affresh.

mrboilwash, which washing machine do you use? I'm very curious about a washer capable of 95°C (over 200°F) washes. Though, I've decided to go with the WM3600HWA, as I have access to an inexpensive 5-year warranty coverage at a local store and I need a washing machine within the next week.

 

[mark_wpduet]

Oxi Clean isn't safe for colors? I haven't used it. I assumed it was similar to color safe bleach.... I didn't realize either sanitized to be honest.

 

[DADoES]

 
Oxi Clean by definition is oxygen bleach which is considered safe for "fast" colors .... but also akin to peroxide which is often used to bleach hair ... so yes, oxi/oxygen bleach can fade delicate/non-fast colors.

Regards to sanitizing ... depends on what degree of sanitization is desired and what pathogens are involved.  Typical liquid (and bar?) hand soap, for example, kills COVID-19 by disrupting the lipid layer that encases it.  Other gnasties are more sturdy, calling for stronger methods.

 

[mrboilwash]

Batman, I live in Germany and use a Miele. The maximum temperature on the dial is 95°C (203°F) and the those cycles are still called "Kochwäsche" (boil wash) here but in fact no European washer for household use can go over 89°C (192°F) by design anymore, because the excessive steam would deform the plastic of the detergent drawer and fog up the area too much.

Unfortunately the Mieles on the US-Canadian market don`t even go higher than I think 75°C (167°F) because of limitations that come with the anemic 120V system.
I was only making a point that chlorine bleach is not always the best choice, no intention to suggest a Miele.
I think an LG with a heater should be fine in your area, they`re considered good value for the money here in the group.

 

[launderess]

"Oxi Clean by definition is oxygen bleach which is considered safe for "fast" colors .... but also akin to peroxide which is often used to bleach hair ... so yes, oxi/oxygen bleach can fade delicate/non-fast colors.

Hair color developer (hydrogen peroxide) are mixed with an alkaline substances (ammonia or something else) usually contained in hair color or bleach.

Presence of alkalinity accelerates and intensifies action of hydrogen peroxide. Professional laundries, dry cleaners and others will add bit of ammonia to hydrogen peroxide when treating marks or spots to enhance and speed up action time.

At temps < 140 or even 160 degrees F bleaching activity of all hydrogen peroxide based substances (including sodium perborate and percarbonate) is slowed. This is reason for all that "boil washing" across Europe. When using things like Persil (soap) or even early oxygen bleach containing detergents higher temps were needed to get things going.

OTOH use of warm or cooler water temps slows bleaching action hence all those "all fabric" bleaches that were also safe for colours. No one was or should be washing colours (unless totally fast to laundering) in anything but warm or cool water. So there you are then...

Problems began with introduction of bleaching activators. Those substances gave boil wash results at between 120 to 140 F or even 100 F. So now people could turn down the dial, save energy and still obtain same bleaching results.

Problem is for colours those activated oxygen bleaching systems can take a toll even when only warm or cool water is used. This is why "colour" detergents came about in Europe that omit oxygen bleaching systems totally.

 

[henene4]

I can tell you for sure that oxygen bleach does fade colors over time, at least faster than not using it would.
I basically only wear white T-shirts with prints. Some of them are years old, none ever see more than 104F washing with some kind of oxygen bleach and the prints (no matter the kind) fade slowly, but surely.
My socks and underwear are mostly coloured and go in the same wash, and those to fade slowly and surely.

On the topic of sanitisation: It's a probability/time thing as well.
That's why, when you're talking hospital level stuff, you actually calculate times based on how likely it is that a certain number of germs survive.

 

[petek]

I have the WM3700 with sanitary and allergiene. I believe the WM3850 does as well. Got mine at CAS

 

[launderess]

In both North America and Europe (and one presumes elsewhere) there are standards or recommendations laid down for sanitation of healthcare linens.

There also exists various accreditations for laundries that process healthcare linen.

Finally you also have agencies that certify disinfectants and other aspects of infection control such as EPA (USA) and Koch Institute (Germany)

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11035912/

https://www.cdc.gov/infection-contr...rine bleach assures an extra margin of safety.

https://hospitalhealthcare.com/news/the-barrier-laundry-process-a-look-across-european-borders/

https://journals.asm.org/doi/10.1128/aem.01435-19

https://www.waeschereien.de/en/quality-mark/ral-gz-992/2

What has evolved is a series of guidelines and (recommended) procedures involving healthcare laundry designed to produce sanitary results.

 

[me]

There used to be a for "Colours" powder with oxi-bleach sold here, that had sodium carbonate peroxide in it, but no bleach activator. Can't remember the brand, but I remember double checking the listed ingredients, as I needed some without and was surprised.

I had a service manual, which listed all the steps in washings cycles for the washing machine we had from about 1980, I think it might have come with the microcontroller board I replaced. I'm pretty sure it's maximum temperature, which was on the 95°C White Cotton wash, was 85°C, so even back then our machines didn't actually do a boil wash.

You do get some fading with oxygen bleach, I've had one or two black tops fade after repeated washing, and others that have been fine. I washed a black t-shirt with a colour print on once, that came with a video game (shadow of the beast), because it stank of dye even sealed up in its plastic bag in the box, the print faded noticeably. Shame really, because I read they are actually worth a few quid now.

Here's a photo of a couple of pair of trousers I bought about 6 months ago (they were very cheap 'cause of the colour), the one on the left has been washed once and never worn, the other must have been worn and washed at 40°C using powder with percarbonate at least a dozen times, and likely a bit more. There's a slight amount of fading although part of it will be from wear.

 

[launderess]

State of Illinois says:

Linens shall be disinfected by using one of the following procedures:

1) Thermal Disinfection: Linen must be exposed to water with a minimum of hot water at least 160 degrees Farenheit for a cumulative time of at least 25 minutes.

https://casetext.com/regulation/illinois-administrative-code/title-77-public-health/part-250-hospital-licensing-requirements/subpart-n-housekeeping-and-laundry-services/section-2501740-laundry-service#:~:text=Linens%20shall%20be%20disinfected%20by,of%20at%20least%2025%20minutes.