My '60 Concert Grand has the phantom remote control. The phantom chassis contains a selenium rectifier Magnavox 530060-1, and just says model 10 on the unit. I want to replace it with a modern diode as I am rebuilding the unit. What do you guys use in place of that small selenium rectifier? Do you use a dropping resistor with the new diode? If so, what size? Any help is very much appreciated!!!
Magnavox Concert Grand
- Thread starter ladyk
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cfz2882
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can you tell how many plates the rectifier has-that might give an idea of how much series resistance the rectifier has and give an idea on a suitable dropping resistor to use with a silicon diode.All my old equipment that originally came with selenium is still running the selenium with no problems,but I've heard forward resistance creeps up a little with advanced age.Also,in a 1950 book that describes selenium rectifiers,mentions long disused selenium rectifiers benefit from a "reform"process by holding at PIV for a few hrs 
The newest radio I have with a selenium rectifier is a 1978 Russian made solid state stereo.
The newest radio I have with a selenium rectifier is a 1978 Russian made solid state stereo.Never ever use NOS selenium rectifiers.
all selenium rectifiers must be replaced, they can go rather explosively with toxic fumes at the most, and resistance creep at the very least. Yes the other poster is correct, you have to put a resistor in parallel with the diode.
The power supply is full wave, 5U4 x 5. 16 6V6 PER SIDE. Too lazy to figure out the exact wattage but it's around 100 watts per side, bi-amped.
If this unit has not been rebuilt, it MUST be recapped at the very least, you risk serious damage if certain caps go.
all selenium rectifiers must be replaced, they can go rather explosively with toxic fumes at the most, and resistance creep at the very least. Yes the other poster is correct, you have to put a resistor in parallel with the diode.
The power supply is full wave, 5U4 x 5. 16 6V6 PER SIDE. Too lazy to figure out the exact wattage but it's around 100 watts per side, bi-amped.
If this unit has not been rebuilt, it MUST be recapped at the very least, you risk serious damage if certain caps go.
I always do
200 ohms for 120V, and dimension for at least double the maximum, never less than 1 watt. Remember, inrush current must be limited.
The link is to a very easy to follow data sheet with plug-in formula to calculate exactly what you need (though it's always pretty much a 200 ohms resister and a 1N4007).
When you recap, leave the disc and mica capacitors alone unless you have to. Unless you're planning on a full realignment anyway.
Cool, good luck!
200 ohms for 120V, and dimension for at least double the maximum, never less than 1 watt. Remember, inrush current must be limited.
The link is to a very easy to follow data sheet with plug-in formula to calculate exactly what you need (though it's always pretty much a 200 ohms resister and a 1N4007).
When you recap, leave the disc and mica capacitors alone unless you have to. Unless you're planning on a full realignment anyway.
Cool, good luck!
