constellation86
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- Mar 30, 2008
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- 19
Hey Maytag experts. I have a DE407 HOH dryer. It runs but won't heat up. Is there any hope for the old girl? What should I check?
Thanks,
Nicholas
Thanks,
Nicholas
Maytag dryer problem
- Thread starter constellation86
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dnastrau
Well-known member
I do not have a Maytag HOH dryer, but...
...I would check for a bad temperature sensor with an Ohmmeter. If that isn't it I would also check the heating element to see if it is bad. Infinite resistance on either of these would cause a no heat condition. While you are in there I'd give the entire machine a good cleaning and oil the bearings with some turbine oil. I just picked some "Zoom Spout" turbine oil at my local Ace hardware for about $4.00. Great stuff!
That is my uninitiated two cents. I am sure there are some HOH owners that can be more specific with advice.
...I would check for a bad temperature sensor with an Ohmmeter. If that isn't it I would also check the heating element to see if it is bad. Infinite resistance on either of these would cause a no heat condition. While you are in there I'd give the entire machine a good cleaning and oil the bearings with some turbine oil. I just picked some "Zoom Spout" turbine oil at my local Ace hardware for about $4.00. Great stuff!
That is my uninitiated two cents. I am sure there are some HOH owners that can be more specific with advice.
Check wiring first
Before disassembling the dryer, check to make sure you're getting 240 volts at the receptacle or terminal block. You should have 120 V between each hot line and neutral or ground, and 240 V between the hot lines. Many times when a dryer will turn, but not heat, it is because one of the fuses is blown, or one side of the circuit breaker is bad. Most dryer motors operate on 120 V, so if the side it's on is OK, but the other isn't, it will run but not heat. But if it's the other way around, the dryer won't work at all.
Before disassembling the dryer, check to make sure you're getting 240 volts at the receptacle or terminal block. You should have 120 V between each hot line and neutral or ground, and 240 V between the hot lines. Many times when a dryer will turn, but not heat, it is because one of the fuses is blown, or one side of the circuit breaker is bad. Most dryer motors operate on 120 V, so if the side it's on is OK, but the other isn't, it will run but not heat. But if it's the other way around, the dryer won't work at all.
constellation86
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- Mar 30, 2008
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update
I took the back off to check the wiring. The element reads 13 ohms. But the connection on the motor is burned. I put a new terminal on the green wire but the male end on the motor is very loose. Is this okay? I don't want a fire! Can I replace the terminals on the motor? Or must I replace the whole motor?
Nicholas
I took the back off to check the wiring. The element reads 13 ohms. But the connection on the motor is burned. I put a new terminal on the green wire but the male end on the motor is very loose. Is this okay? I don't want a fire! Can I replace the terminals on the motor? Or must I replace the whole motor?
Nicholas
constellation86
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- Mar 30, 2008
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close up
dnastrau
Well-known member
That doesn't look good...
I am not sure what the green and blue wires do, but that got very hot due to a lot of current passing through it.
I would not just put new ends on the wires and try running it without tracking down the root cause. You don't want to get hurt and/or start a fire.
I think the resident HOH experts will have to chime in here.
Good luck - be safe.
I am not sure what the green and blue wires do, but that got very hot due to a lot of current passing through it.
I would not just put new ends on the wires and try running it without tracking down the root cause. You don't want to get hurt and/or start a fire.
I think the resident HOH experts will have to chime in here.
Good luck - be safe.
MT HOH MOTOR SWITCH
The blue & green are the heat circuit wires going to the centrifugal switch in the motor this is what turns the heater on when the motor builds up enough speed to cut off the start windings and turn on the heater. Either the whole motor or just the start sw needs to be changed. That is one of the infamous westinghouse motors they never were very good it one of the stupid things MT did as they always had a much higher failure than the Emerson and GE motors. The GM Delco motors were the next most troublesome. It also may be hard to find just the start switch.
The blue & green are the heat circuit wires going to the centrifugal switch in the motor this is what turns the heater on when the motor builds up enough speed to cut off the start windings and turn on the heater. Either the whole motor or just the start sw needs to be changed. That is one of the infamous westinghouse motors they never were very good it one of the stupid things MT did as they always had a much higher failure than the Emerson and GE motors. The GM Delco motors were the next most troublesome. It also may be hard to find just the start switch.
