Maytag Washer, A710 bleach inlet rusted away ...

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n6ac

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Jul 28, 2022
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California
Hello – our Maytag Washer, Model LA710, SN 645574 JT of 1982 has developed rust at the nipple on the bottom of the tub 2-5484 (a few inches above the motor) where the bleach hose 2-14433 attaches. The bottom half of the steel tubular nipple has rusted away, so that there is no simple way to stop water from leaking out.
I was initially confused by the presence of the plastic legs of the 2-14434 that protrude there.
Anyway, we want to repair the machine if possible.
Photo at https://www.dropbox.com/s/d3o3ky49empp1q2/Maytag A710 rusted tub connection.JPG
Any ideas?

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I would effectively cover the hole in the tub by first applying a rust killer. Next I would apply a marine 2 part epoxy and once cured I would apply an industrial sealant. It would do away with the bleach dispensing system but it’s the easiest way to keep your machine. When I make a repair like this I also use a sealant to block the beach tube cup port so if bleach is put in the dispenser it doesn’t land on the floor.
 
The right way is to find a donor machine and swap the outer tubs. Any large capacity Maytag built from 1966-1993 is a direct swap. Make sure the donor machine has the bleach dispenser if you use that. TOL machines from 1966-early 1975 have the bleach dispenser and port on the opposite side, so be aware of that.

I'd be leery on gooping epoxy on the rusted areas as a long term fix. It will prevent it from leaking if executed properly, however, if rust has made its way to the inside of the tub, this will continue to rot, and eventually fail. When it "lets go", it will cause a flood. If it fails while the machine is running during the wash/rinse cycle, the pressure switch will be activated and water will continue to flood the area until it's physically turned off. If you want to go the epoxy route, DO NOT LEAVE THE MACAHINE UNATTENDED!!! Expect it to fail at anytime and treat it as such.

This is just one of the many reasons I quit using chlorine bleach almost 15 years ago. It very caustic and eats up porcelain/paint/metal and eventually causes rust.
 
I do agree that it’s not the best way but It does work when done properly. I’ve repaired many tubs over the last 30 years and to my knowledge the repair was never a problem.

Because the machine in question is 40 years old the correct way would be a complete tear down of the machine replacing the outer tub along the way with new tub bearing and seal, transmission service, damper pad lubrication, etc. Then the machine might be good for another 40 years.
 
I don’t know if this will work since I’ve never dealt with rust issues on Maytags, however I’ve dealt with rust issues on my Whirlpool before there there were a few pine holes on the outer tub and I used JB Weld Steel Stik which worked for awhile but failed about 8 months later. I ended up having the pin holes welded and haven’t had any issues since.

Having that area welded may be the best route to go since it will hold up better than epoxy and yes welding might be more expensive but will hold up much longer than any sort of epoxy will.
 
rusty inlet

I am wondering if I can just apply a huge glob of epoxy and close off the damaged port (after de-rusting). Would epoxy be waterproof in such an application?
 
It’s supposed to be. I’m speaking of the marine epoxy that comes in a tube. You mix it like putty with your fingers and apply it when properly mixed. I usually let it set for 24 hours and it should be hard as a rock at that point. Then I cover it with a 3m industrial sealant for good measure. Once it’s cured you can check for leaks.
 
Rusted Bleach Nipple On A MT Washer

If you just want to keep using this machine I would wire brush, sand etc to clean up the area and use 3M marine sealant and just seal up the hole and let it dry throughly and not use the dispenser feature.

 

To try fixing from the inside or replace the outer tub you are going to get into a big project on such an old machine.

 

John L.
 
Sorry, please ignore my posting "Reply# 5 7/28/2022 at 22:43" which had been queued up but unsent, then I clicked send only to then find several useful responses.
 
It appears that a 1/2 inch PVC pipe cap fits quite nicely over this inlet, including the plastic arms of the 2-14434 thingy (disperser?). The cap sits pretty flat on the 1.27 inch flat around the inlet.
I could add a set screw to hold it against the remaining upper part of the protruding steel tube, and liberally apply the epoxy on the mating parts before final attachment.
I agree about not wanting to get into the whole drum replacement – we are in our 80s, maybe a look to a good decade of use ...

On another forum, a person claims that the port unscrews – I see no sign of that.

Once I get the leak sealed, back to the belt replacements that started this journey.
upon first attempted use with new (Maytag) belts, after a low water fill, the machine made terrible buzzing noises when it kicked in the motor current.
 
The part with the plastic arms needs to be secured somehow. If it gets pushed into the tub then you will have to do some major disassembly to remove it because it will cause problems. Epoxying it to what’s left of the metal should work and let it cure before going further to ensure it doesn’t fall into the tub. It is an injector nozzle for the bleach. There is nothing to unscrew here.
 
Thank you all !!
I'm going to clean it up further, including a liquid de-ruster (naval jelly) and Dremel brush some more.
I've found a little rubbery cap that will just fit to hold the first stage of epoxy, which will firmly entrap the arms of the plastic 2-14434 thingy. Maybe try to clean some rust inside the little tube (difficult with the plastic thingy).
That in turn just fits inside the 1/2 inch PVC cap, which I have filed a bit to almost match the curve across the mount face. So second step will be to epoxy that cap in place while holding the PVC tight and steady against the inlet mount. Hmmm – how? Maybe big magnets ...
Still debating on adding a set screw; probably the epoxy will hold by itself with this treatment, and I don't want to weaken the PVC cap.
 
That plastic piece in the dispenser port is called a deflector. Its purpose is to allow the bleach to enter the tub and prevent the wash water being pumped up into the hose and dispenser on the top of the washer during the Swirlaway drain spin. The A510 that I had back in the 80's had the port to the tub as well but it was capped off by a rubber cap. I never use chlorine bleach so i wouldn't have any use for a bleach dispenser, but thats me.
 
About 12 years ago I purposely positioned the bleach deflector 180 degrees out of phase on my 712 washer when I had the tub out for curiosity sake. Every time the machine would go into spin, the bleach cup would momentarily fill with water and then drain. It would basically performing a self-cleaning cycle of itself twice per load that actually works very effectively.
 
Thanks folks for all the information.
I'm going ahead with the epoxy fix, while looking at MVWP575GW as a possible buy.
Would anyone be interested in the 40-year old A710 as a parts machine, or as a base for rebuild of a classic?
Not trying to make money on it, just would hate for it to go to a landfill ...
I am in Los Angeles harbor area.

Photos of the machine –

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more rust

Good-Shepherd said – "Looks like the front tub bolt is leaking as well, see all that rust on the spring eyebolt."

Thanks, I will take a look at that. If the nut is loosened on the outside, is the bolt captive or must it be accessed from inside (total take-apart) ??
 

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