Miele 1918 "Fluff Trap"...

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

sudsmaster

sudsmaster

Well-known member
Platinum Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2004
Messages
15,034
Location
SF Bay Area, California
My Miele 1918, which appears to be mint, has a rather stiff acting lint trap (Miele calls it a "fluff trap", lol). I notice there's a kind of thick oil (or thin grease) that is amber in color and the kind of consistency of honey, on the threads of the trap. The problem is that tightening the trap to the point where it doesn't leak takes quite a bit of effort, and even more effort is required to remove it. The trap itself is squeaky clean, with absolutely no scale or other type of problem.

So I'm thinking... perhaps the thick oil was what Miele put on the threads at time of manufacture. Over time, it has gotten thicker and made the screw action more difficult. I'm wondering if I should brush off the oil/grease (with dish soap and hot water and a dish brush) and replace it with vasoline or maybe nothing at all.

Anybody else experienced this with a Miele?
 
Nope

Not with any German market Miele, ever.
Weird. Hmm, trying to think what could be above the...fluff...trap which might cause that.
Question: After cleaning the gunk out, does it come back?
 
Leave Dat Trap Alone!

Will you stop fidding with that Miele washer and just use it for goodness sakes! *LOL* Just won't be happy until you find something wrong, will you? *LOL*

The trap is designed to be hard to remove and hard to close because it is a seal, a rather tight seal at that to keep water where it belongs; inside the machine/pump. Though not heard of a layer of "grease" covering a Miele fluff trap, it could have been put there by Miele; and even if it wasn't it is not going to hurt anything.

Like you,when my Miele first arrived was keen to clean, scrub and investigate every inch possible of the washer. One fine Saturday afternoon got the very bright idea to "clean out" the pump/fluff trap area and set to work. Drained the machine, removed the fluff trap and took apart everything I could down there, including rubber "O" rings. Soaked, scrubbed everything in hot water and vinegar, and flushed out the pump area. After putting everything back together and inserting the fluff pump, was right pleased with myself over a job well done.

Later when I decided to do a load of laundry. Upon filling, water began to shoot out of the pump/fluff trap area like a fire plug, and the only way to stop it was to set the washer to drain and remove the water. Once this was done removed and replaced the fluff trap, then set the washer to fill again; only to have the same flood of water come shooting out of the machine. Since it was Saturday afternoon, and Miele customer service/repair was closed, could only keep repeating removing, tightening, the fluff trap to see if I could undo whatever it was I had done. About one hour later, and a totally flooded floor, with an equally soaked underfloor finally got the thing to hold.

That was my last "cleaning" of my Miele washing machine, including the pump/fluff trap. Have only removed the thing recently to see if anything was down there, and quickly replaced the trap and left well enough alone.

If one is careful about sorting, removing coins and such from pockets, there normally is very little if anything caught in Miele washer lint traps. Friends of mine in Europe report they go years between cleaning,mainly for the same reason.

As mother would say: "Quite messing with it before you break something"! *LOL*

Launderess
 
With all due respect, Launderess, it would appear I am far more mechanically inclined than you seem to think. I have removed and replaced the fluff trap on the 1918 multiple times, with not a drop of water leaking out. I would also advise you that the design of the fluff trap on the 1918 is different than that on the 1065/1070. That is, the one you are accustomed to, the 1070, disengages with just a turn or two. The water is drained when you pull a stopped on a separate drain tube, after which you can turn the fluff trap cap and remove the trap. The 1918 fluff trap, on the other hand, screws in with multiple turns. The drain is integral with the fluff trap cap. When you unscrew the cap a turn or two, the washer drains through the drain tube. Then after it drains, you can remove the cap for cleaning.

The reason why I removed it tonight was to check ans see if there were any coins/objects in the trap. I did this becuase the 1918 drain pump has been noisy, but the last time it ran, it got much quieter. So I reasoned that perhaps a foreign object was causing the noise in the pump and it was now gone. So I wanted to see if the object was now safely in the trap. In the event, I found nothing significant in the trap - maybe a bit of sediment, understandable with all the washing it's done lately.

I would say that the 1065/70 fluff trap cap is a bit more sensitive to proper installation than the 1918, and it will seep some water if not perfectly clean. And the 1065 had so much grunge in there it was begging to be cleaned. But unlike you I didn't attempt to disassemble the 1065 trap cap... I was content merely to wash it off under a tap precisely as outlined in the Miele owner's manual.

So, thanks for the advice, but I'm not a mechanical klutz and am quite comfortable and competent tinkering with these things, and will continue so to do.
 
Louis,

It looks more like the one on the right, but not exactly. The 1918 manual does not say it is self cleaning. In fact, the manual advises that it be checked after a few washes initially and then periodically checked and cleaned thereafter.

Here's an excerpt from the 1918 Owner's Manual:

Cleaning the fluff (drain) filter
and pump
Check the fluff (drain) filter initially after
3-4 washes to ascertain how often it is
likely to require cleaning.
With normal cleaning approx. 2 litres of
water run out.
If the drain outlet is clogged, more
water will be retained in the machine
(up to 25 litres).
Caution: If laundry has been
washed at a high temperature,
water draining out of the machine
will still be hot.
Take the (yellow) filter flap opener from
behind the detergent drawer facia
panel, (see illustration above).
Open the flap.
Place a dish under the drain fixture.
Turn the fluff filter lid round 2-3
times. Do not take it right out.
With large volumes of water, when the
dish is full screw the fluff filter back into
position, and empty the dish before repeating
the procedure.
USER MAINTENANCE Cleaning and care
28
Once the flow of water ceases,
remove the fluff filter completely.
Clean the fluff filter thoroughly.
Remove any foreign objects (e.g.
buttons, coins, etc.) and fluff.
Turn the impeller by hand to check
that it is free to rotate. Any foreign objects
causing an obstruction should
be removed.
Clean the inside of the fluff filter housing.
Remove any deposits of lime scale and
detergent or foreign objects from the
thread of the filter housing and filter unit
(as these objects can cause a leakage
of water). Deposits of limescale are
often a sign of underdosage of powder.
Put the fluff filter back in place and
secure.
After performing this action gently
pour approx. 2 litres of water into the
detergent dispenser compartment
j to reactivate the ball valve which
keeps detergent in circulation in the
suds.


View attachment 10-19-2007-01-33-39--sudsmaster.jpg
 
The early Button Traps are prone

to Leakage.

The button trap on my 70's W423, is of the type that secures in place, with only 1/8th of a turn.

If there is any dirt on any of the surfaces that mate, even algae it will leak.

I need to get a new seal as after 30 years I assume mine is quite compressed and contributing to the problem, however at $20AUD for gasket I've been too tight and just persist when I remove and if it leaks.

The early filters, and I cant remember what is in the 10XX series, look like a traffic cone shaped plastic collender. I find that I need to clean mine ever 40-50 loads, as it traps the lint, rather than allowing it to pass straight through, like the later ones do.

Anywho, having small puddles of water under a vintage washing machine is part of the fun :)

Regards

Nathan
 
Hello there

I have a W1213, and I can say that I have not checked mine in a while. i do laundry for an Acupunturist, and usually the ony things that I find in the coin trap is maybe one of the little white needle covers, nothing to get alarmed about really. I have never realy found anything else in there. With my machine, it is usually a mess of water when I do it, on to the floor, not a big deal, that is what mops and or towels are for. Otherwise, i never touch it. I just wash and watch when I get the opportunity. I know that at one time, the 1918 was the most popualr of the Mieles sold in the United states, they are tried and true machines.......just becuase I am courious, is it true that the final rinse is the tepm that you selected? That would be nice. I know that mine is just cold( 85 F)
 
if you like, I will ask Miele for you

hi Sudsmaster,

apparently you can scrub that stuff out. I do not know about Miele personally, but with our AEG it was the same when it was new: They put some synthetic grease on it to make fitting the filter cap & thread easier during manufacture. (some synthetic grease that cannot disintegrate the rubber seal).

After some washes the suds will dilute the oily compontents in it and it should wash away by itself. However: Our town has a very high lime percentage per liter (almost chalky water LOL), so in our AEG we had that too: a hardened "something" in the tread.

But to be sure, I will be happy to wait until Monday or Tuesday and give Miele Germany a call.
Deal?

Have a great splashy weekend.

Joe (Germany)
 
Hey Joe,

Thanks a lot for the info and the offer. It's enough to know that another German washer mfg puts a synthetic grease in the threads to ease the turning - and that's exactly what I think this stuff is - except over the years it's thickened quite a bit, perhaps.

Realistically, it should be ok to just scrub it out, I agree. I 'll probably use some liquid HE detergent to do that, and maybe use a little of it to lubricate the threads as well.

It's another indication that this washer was very lightly used before I got it.

If you do get word from Miele on the subject, of course I'd love to hear about it.
 
here is what Miele says:

ok Sudsmaster,

I called Miele, they said: not only can you clean the stuff out, they even recommend(!) it. And other than I assumed, Miele does not use any lubricants for the threads. The only explanation the lady on the service line had for me was this one:

"... possibly the other owner had washed clothes with a rare or stubborn kind of dirt, opened the filter without draining the water first and immediately closed the cap again when the suds started escaping. After this, it dried up in the thread. This would also explain, why the substance could be found outside of the seal ring - nevertheless, should the existing seal ring be too flat, a spare seal is readily available! Would you like to order one? *smile*"

I didn't order one. Instead I made her give me an email address to ask about the "fluff" translation in the manual (hehe).

I keep you posted!
Joe
 
here is what Miele says:

ok Sudsmaster,

I called Miele, they said: not only can you clean the stuff out, they even recommend(!) it. And other than I assumed, Miele does not use any lubricants for the threads. The only explanation the lady on the service line had for me was this one:

"... possibly the other owner had washed clothes with a rare or stubborn kind of dirt, opened the filter without draining the water first and immediately closed the cap again when the suds started escaping. After this, it dried up in the thread. This would also explain, why the substance could be found outside of the seal ring - nevertheless, should the existing seal ring be too flat, a spare seal is readily available! Would you like to order one? *smile*"

I didn't order one. Instead I made her give me an email address to ask about the "fluff" translation in the manual (hehe).

I keep you posted!
Joe
 
Joe,

Thanks very much for the Miele message.

Here is what happened: I did indeed remove the fluff filter again, and gently scrubbed the grease out, using dish detergent and warm water with a good rinsing at the kitchen sink. I also used some liquid HE detergent to clean the threads in the machine, toweling it dry afterwards.

When I re-inserted the filter, it tended to bind even more than before. This time it wasn't a slow resistance, but rather some easy turning, then a stop, turn, stop, etc. So I put some HE liquid detergent on the threads and on each flange of the filter, and that seemed to help, with no more binding but still tough to turn. And it wasn't until I lubed the gasket flanges (not the threads) that the turning improved back to where it was. Even so, I got tired of cramped hands (and having to use both) trying to screw in or unscrew the filter, so I fashioned a tool out of an old shovel handle to make it a bit easier. I'll post a photo of the tool later today. With this tool I was able to get the filter all the way closed without hand cramping.

I don't know why the filter is so tight... the threads were/are squeaky clean, so I don't think it was a dirt or detergent deposit (there were none). Perhaps some of the synthetic rubber gaskets are too big or something. Don't know. I'm hoping it will loosen up in time. Meanwhile the tool seems to work just fine.
 
Fluff Filter Extraction Tool

As promised, here's a photo of the tool I made to help unscrew the fluff filter on the Miele 1918.

I made it out of an old spade "D" handle. The handle had broken at the spade's metal tube. So I just cut off the broken end, and then used a small hand saw and a wood chisel to make a notch to fit the fluff filter hand grip. I made the notch perpendicular to the grain of the hardwood handle, to minimize splitting of the wood.

Result: no more hand cramps and grunting while trying to remove, or install, the overly tight stock fluff filter. The wood notch is soft enough that it doesn't mar the filter housing, but strong enough to do the job. The handle provide enough length so that both hands can be used to turn the filter, without having to cram one's hands into the small opening on the fluff filter access port.

10-29-2007-01-55-24--sudsmaster.jpg
 
It sounds to me like someone washed something incredibly greasy in your machine. I'd say she's right.

Run the machine with a good quality detergent on a 95C long wash without any clothes, just to make 100% sure it's ok.

If it's a second hand machine its quite possible someone ran something strange through it e.g. washed clothes that had some kind of lubricating oil on them which has now become stuck in the sump.

Also, set the rinse level to highest possible and let it flush itself out.

You can also buy Miele washing machine descaler online. It is added directly to the drum and follow the instructions carefully. It'll make sure you've no other gunge in there.

We've had Miele washing machines for >20 years and the trap doesn't really need to be opened more than once a year!
They're extremely well designed and the pump's pass-through. The filter won't actually catch much fluff/lint. Rather, it's only designed to catch objects large enough to cause pump damage e.g. large buttons, coins, hairclips, etc.

There's really no need to be 'poking at it' .. it's like picking your nose! Don't do it!!
 
I'm not worried

As I said before, this 1918 machine was squeaky clean when I bought it. I've run a lot of loads in it since then, including several at maximum temperature (which on this machine is 170F, not 190F) with no problems. Unlike the 1065, this machine has no scale buildup.

I think it's possible that someone found the fluff filter to be difficult to turn, and added some oil or grease to the threads in a prior ownership, and that is what I found in the threads. It definitely wasn't dried dirt or suds.

Also, as I pointed out before, Miele itself (in the 1918 owners' manual, no less) recommends checking the fluff filter after the firest few washes, and then periodically thereafter as needed. Personally I don't see what harm can come from following the manufacturer's instructions.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top