I've always thought that the european power outlets with switch and circuit breaker were a neat idea. But then I wondered about how they are wired. Do they use different gauge wire depending on intended use? Could you plug your cooker into any convienient outlet?
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warmsecondrinse
Well-known member
Ooooooooohhhhhh! Good Question.
I remember asking about that in Poland and in Italy.
IIRC, A few things don't require anything special. For example, a 1 burner hot plate here does not have the 'strength' of 1 burner on an electric stove because the hot plate is limited to 120V, whereas in Europe it does have the same power. However, an electric stove with 4 burners and an oven would still require a separate circuit and heavier wiring.
There are dryers that can be plugged in anywhere just like 120V dryers here, but they take longer to dry. 'Regular' dryers need a special circuit/wiring. My cousins in Poland had portable electric radiators that plugged into regular outlets on their own circuit, much like a 14,000btu window a/c here would be reg 120v but on its own circuit. I remember doing the math in my head (don't ask me now what that math was, lol) and while the BTU's were higher than here, of course, it still wasn't up to what 240v baseboard would produce.
I seem to remember figuring out a general rule of thumb like "half again plus a little bit". I.e. Thinking in 120v terms, whereas we have a limit of 1500 watts on a 15 amp circit, they have a limit of 2300-2500 watts from a regular outlet so anything above that would require special plugs, wiring, etc.
I'm really curious to see if I remember correctly or if I've totally mixed things up...
Jim
I remember asking about that in Poland and in Italy.
IIRC, A few things don't require anything special. For example, a 1 burner hot plate here does not have the 'strength' of 1 burner on an electric stove because the hot plate is limited to 120V, whereas in Europe it does have the same power. However, an electric stove with 4 burners and an oven would still require a separate circuit and heavier wiring.
There are dryers that can be plugged in anywhere just like 120V dryers here, but they take longer to dry. 'Regular' dryers need a special circuit/wiring. My cousins in Poland had portable electric radiators that plugged into regular outlets on their own circuit, much like a 14,000btu window a/c here would be reg 120v but on its own circuit. I remember doing the math in my head (don't ask me now what that math was, lol) and while the BTU's were higher than here, of course, it still wasn't up to what 240v baseboard would produce.
I seem to remember figuring out a general rule of thumb like "half again plus a little bit". I.e. Thinking in 120v terms, whereas we have a limit of 1500 watts on a 15 amp circit, they have a limit of 2300-2500 watts from a regular outlet so anything above that would require special plugs, wiring, etc.
I'm really curious to see if I remember correctly or if I've totally mixed things up...
Jim
brisnat81
Well-known member
Hi Cuffs and Jim,
Cuffs, in answer to your question, sort of
In Australia each standard plug in appliance can access a maximum of 2400watts. The circuits are generally 16 or 20 amps and you can plug in 2-3 2400 watt appliances before you'll likely trip a breaker. We generally follow the European standard for Cooktops and Ovens these days. A 16amp Cooktop and a 16amp walloven would generally be hard wired on one 24amp circuit. The 16amp Cooktop and 24amp walloven we have are hard wired into a single 32amp circuit.
We also have 15amp, 20amp, 25amp, 32amp plugs and sockets, but it is generally rare to find them above 20amps. The 20amp socket is usually for an Airconditioner or an American dryer and they are limited to 4800watts.
A 15amp upwards socked is on a dedicated circuit and once you get above 20 amps things are generally hard wired.
Our plugs and sockets let you plug in any amperage plug, up to the maximum amperage that the socket supports. IE, a 10amp plug will fit in a 10, 15, 20 and 32amp socket, but a 20amp plug will only fit in a 20, 25 and 32amp socket.
Wikipedia sums up the standard for our plugs and sockets
http://https//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AS/NZS_3112
Cuffs, in answer to your question, sort of
In Australia each standard plug in appliance can access a maximum of 2400watts. The circuits are generally 16 or 20 amps and you can plug in 2-3 2400 watt appliances before you'll likely trip a breaker. We generally follow the European standard for Cooktops and Ovens these days. A 16amp Cooktop and a 16amp walloven would generally be hard wired on one 24amp circuit. The 16amp Cooktop and 24amp walloven we have are hard wired into a single 32amp circuit.
We also have 15amp, 20amp, 25amp, 32amp plugs and sockets, but it is generally rare to find them above 20amps. The 20amp socket is usually for an Airconditioner or an American dryer and they are limited to 4800watts.
A 15amp upwards socked is on a dedicated circuit and once you get above 20 amps things are generally hard wired.
Our plugs and sockets let you plug in any amperage plug, up to the maximum amperage that the socket supports. IE, a 10amp plug will fit in a 10, 15, 20 and 32amp socket, but a 20amp plug will only fit in a 20, 25 and 32amp socket.
Wikipedia sums up the standard for our plugs and sockets
http://https//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AS/NZS_3112
Brisnat, thanks for the info. Do homes also have a central breaker box like the US?
brisnat81
Well-known member
We sure do.
They come either two ways.
1) Outside the house in a Meter enclosure with the Electic meters on top and the Circuit breakers on the bottom
2) Meters outside the house in an enclosure and the Circuit breakers inside in an enclosure.
The first Picture is an external enclosure that contains the meters and CB's
The Second is what a traditional fuse box looked like
The Third is what a switchboard inside a house looks like when its separate to the Metering enclosure.
Cheers
Nathan
They come either two ways.
1) Outside the house in a Meter enclosure with the Electic meters on top and the Circuit breakers on the bottom
2) Meters outside the house in an enclosure and the Circuit breakers inside in an enclosure.
The first Picture is an external enclosure that contains the meters and CB's
The Second is what a traditional fuse box looked like
The Third is what a switchboard inside a house looks like when its separate to the Metering enclosure.
Cheers
Nathan
warmsecondrinse
Well-known member
Is this what you're thinking of?
"Post# 507331 on 2011-03-27 17:23:50 by Mrx
UK & Ireland plug
The plug and socket used in the UK and Ireland is rated 13amps and carries an internal fuse (rated from 3 amps to 13 amps depending on the appliance).
This is required because the UK and Ireland allow "ring circuits" which basically means that sockets are connected on a 32amp power bus which runs around all of the sockets in a given area. This is protected by a 32amp breaker + RCD (GFCI) which is sufficient to protect the house wiring and you from electric shock but, local fusing is required for the appliance.
The appliance and its cable are protected by the local fuse in the plug itself. Every plug in this system has a fuse and it is impossible (due to interlocked shutters) to insert anything other than a BS1363 plug into the socket outlet. (the ground pin, must go in first, followed by equal pressure on the line and neutral 'holes' to open the socket)."
"Post# 507331 on 2011-03-27 17:23:50 by Mrx
UK & Ireland plug
The plug and socket used in the UK and Ireland is rated 13amps and carries an internal fuse (rated from 3 amps to 13 amps depending on the appliance).
This is required because the UK and Ireland allow "ring circuits" which basically means that sockets are connected on a 32amp power bus which runs around all of the sockets in a given area. This is protected by a 32amp breaker + RCD (GFCI) which is sufficient to protect the house wiring and you from electric shock but, local fusing is required for the appliance.
The appliance and its cable are protected by the local fuse in the plug itself. Every plug in this system has a fuse and it is impossible (due to interlocked shutters) to insert anything other than a BS1363 plug into the socket outlet. (the ground pin, must go in first, followed by equal pressure on the line and neutral 'holes' to open the socket)."
Did the europeans ever use "knob and tube" like the US?
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