multiple issues with our beloved Frigidaire Imperial RI-55-59

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ddodde

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Apr 12, 2021
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GRAND RAPIDS
hi, thanks for taking the time to read this, i'm hoping this forum can help me make a decision about what to do with our Frigidaire Imperial stove — fix it or replace it?

issue one, the oven is no longer working. when turned on we hear the distinctive 'click' but the indicator light fails to go on as does the oven itself.

issue two was brought-up on this forum previously, which was that the main burner (front / right) no longer works. i successfully replaced the switch per the recommendation of the forum but it failed to cure the issue. we were then distracted by life and just lived with the remaining three.

now with the oven out too, i'm forced to either find a fix or replace the unit altogether. on the fix side i'm having a terrible time finding anyone to service the unit (we're in a mid-sized city) and my limited abilities with electronics isn't serving me much good. on the replace side, the unit is 40" wide, to replace it means big $$$. a refurbed 40" vintage gas unit = big $$$. a new 36" unit would mean patching the countertops and cabinetry also big $$$

any help in guiding me to a decision is hugely appreciated

ddodde-2022071208064904373_1.jpg

ddodde-2022071208064904373_2.jpg
 
 

Which oven does not work?  If it's the right large oven the first thing I'd suspect is the clock/timer.  Is it set to "Manual"?  A lot of current goes through the clock/timer contacts and they can fail too.  There was a resource  that rebuilt the clock unit, do not know if it still exists. 

 

That is too nice of a range to discard. I love m '59 CI, it's not my daily driver but still  gets use.
 
I would have to agree with both Matt and Steve about checking the clock to be sure its set on “Man”. The click that you are hearing when you turn on the oven is probably due to the clock being set on “Auto” and the click indicates that with the oven thermostat set to heat with the auto on function and is ready to go just as soon as the clock reaches the Auto Set time.

If you’ve already replaced the switch, its probably the burner element that needs replacement, especially since its the right front burner that got the most use. Stands to reason that the element has reached the end of its life. Now finding a working replacement element may be a challenge, others here would know better than I about this, but I bet if you check on ebay you can eventually locate one.

Good Luck! Its a beautiful stove and it would be a shame to give up on it.

And as luck would have it there is a brand new vintage Fridgidaire 8” element for sale on ebay right now its expensive, but its new in the original packaging.

Eddie
 
Front Burner

I checked the eBay ad and saw that the Frigidaire burner elements are connected to three wire leads.  Check to make sure all leads are connected.  On my mom's '49 Westinghouse stove, which served her for 60 years, wires would detach from burners occasionally.

 

Here's a link to the eBay listing:

 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
ddodde

Glad that you found the problem.

I had this same thing happen in 1983 when I lived in a rental with a lovely 1939 Westinghouse 40” electric stove with a auto delay/start timer. I had recently cleaned off the control panel and must have inadvertently changed the control from man to auto.

I had previously not used this timer function and had no idea what was wrong. But as luck would have it I did have the original owners manual and by looking through it I was able to find the fix. I also learned how to use the delayed start timer function for the oven and after that I used it all the time. Its a wonderful convenience feature.

Now I hope that Ralph’s suggestion to check the wiring of the malfunctioning right front burner will find a disconnected wire that you can easily reattach and get that burner back into business.

Eddie
 
burner wiring

fortunately but unfortunately the wiring looks to be intact

i'm going to pull the back cover off the unit and see if something is disconnected there

will update with photos

ddodde-2022071213223903496_1.jpg
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Glad you were able to get the oven working again by setting the clock back to MAN!

As for your front right burner, unfortunately these Heat Minder systems tended to not be as sturdy as the rest of the appliance.

The electronic system that your '59 originally came with was introduced with the '58 model ranges, and was only used for two years. In 1960 Frigidaire revised the Heat Minder electronic system to a more simplistic system of a sensor/switch/2 wire burner.

If you look at the back of your range you may find a sticker that indicates the range has been upgraded to the 1960 system. I have yet to find a 1958 or 1959 range that still has the original Heat Minder system intact.

Does the burner heat continuously without shutting off? If so, that condition typically means the sensor has gone bad and those are really difficult to find NOS. If the burner doesn't heat at all you could check for continuity across the two terminals on the burner. It is possible the burner itself has gone back but usually the sensor and/or the switch also have gone bad.

If the 1960 update is present on your range you could download the 1960 range service manual from here for additional troubleshooting tips, but another option would be to convert the switch over to an infinite heat switch. What is tricky about your range is finding an infinite heat switch that will fit in the switch assembly and allow for the indicator gear to slip on, as well. I personally have not done this (yet), so I don't have much to offer beyond this as an option.

Good luck!

Ben
 
burner issues cont.

i pulled the back and found nothing obvious

like i said in the original post, i replaced the switch (in white) but it was unsuccessful in retuning power to the burner. i'm getting power to the indicator bulb which would seem to mean the switch is working but still no power to the burner

can anyone recommend a technique to find the break in the circuit?

i do have a multimeter but will need to hit youtube to learn to use it

ddodde-2022071213521203873_1.jpg
 
Ok, so yes. Check for voltage at the burner with the switch on. If you have voltage there check for continuity across the burner (disconnect the wires from the burner, first).

Do you happen to know what the part number was of the switch you installed? It sure looks like an infinite heat switch vs. heat minder.

Ben
 
burner issue found!

removed the burner element from the harness

the VOM indicated power was making it to the 'harness connector'

so it looks like i'll be picking up that 8" burner from ebay now :)

because of everyone's advise and support i now have a fully functional '59 Frigidaire Imperial RI-55-59!!!

you all are the best

cheers!!
 
ben — i looked for the part# for the switch but couldn't locate it or a record of me ordering it

someone also asked which oven was out — this unit only has the right oven. the other side is a storage drawer
 
Matt, thanks for posting the ad for the correct burner element.  When I saw the picture of the existing element I could see that it didn't have the type of terminals as the one I linked to, and thus my theory of a loose wire was likely incorrect. 

 

Since the eBay burner you linked to has been marked "sold," I'm assuming David is the buyer and since the element has been tested and works, he should be back in business soon. 

 

Way to go David!  You saved your beautiful stove with one easy fix and another one where the part only cost you $80 and includes free shipping!

 

One final bit of advice.  My mom's stove only had one burner fail over a 60 year period (6" at right front).  She never banged pots and pans on the burners elements; she always let them sit and stirred the contents.  If the cooks in your household are not already employing this same practice, it might be a good time to start.

 

 
 
On mine the right rear element went out when I was a kid, never got replaced.  The others are fine.  I do have a large stockpile of parts I scavenged from another CI I came across so I do have a replacement for that back element but have never got around to it yet.
 
Make sure the connection block is not an issue instead of the burner unit being out. I've seen that happen where the contacts get so hot, corroded, or warped they stop making contact even though they look like it's attached.
 
thanks for the feedback!!

rep3813 — i carried around a good deal of self confidence yesterday after you all helped me resolve what has been a very anxiety inducing situation in our little household and yes, it was indeed i who bought the burner off ebay yesterday :) also — thanks for the advice about gentle usage — rest assured my wife is a very considerate cooker when it comes to care a use of our vintage kitchen, thus the anxiety of the thought of having to replace it :/

bradfordwhite — first of all, thanks for making great h2o heaters! i just put a new 50gl in not too long ago. all kidding aside, when i checked the connection yesterday w/ my VOM i did so by testing the voltage from inside the plug so i could eliminate that as the issue right from the start. thumbs-up, fist pump

now i'm on the hunt for an 8" drip pan and beauty ring for that same burner — it's the last original one on the stove and badly corroded so if you all know anyone hit me up
 

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