My dream KitchenAid washer is finally a reality

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murando531

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Feb 24, 2014
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Augusta, Georgia - US
After keeping an eye out for as long as I've known what Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, etc. were and how to use them, I've been watching for a KitchenAid with the true turquoise agitator to appear in good shape, and this week it finally happened (with three hours' drive each way, of course lol). Not only is it a KitchenAid, it is THE KitchenAid that I grew up with, same model and year, with the only exception being that it's white instead of almond like ours, which fits better in the modern day anyway.

It's in shockingly good condition for being a year older than I am, although of course it needs a very thorough cleaning. There's no rust around the porcelain top, and a little rust around the cabinet top edge and the frame but I believe it's easily sanded and touched up to prevent it from going further. What shocks me is that there isn't even rust around the bleach dispenser cut-out. It's nearly impossible to find a Direct Drive that doesn't at least have a little chipping and rust in that area or along the edge of the lid.

I've connected it up in the garage and all the water levels and temps work, and it ran through the full normal cycle with successful neutral drains. The agitator dogs and cam are absolutely destroyed though, as expected, but my first plan is to replace the water inlet right off the bat for ease of mind, replace the cam assembly in the agitator, and see if I can buff out that marking on the tub ring, and see if I can get the inner basket out to give it a deep clean as far down as I can go. I don't want to disturb the transmission if it's working properly until I absolutely have to.

The second letter of the serial is A, which should mean 1990 birth date? I highly suspect this has already had a rebuild done, but at the same time, things just seem a little too...untouched? I'd have expected the cabinet to be dented and scuffed as hell at this age, and for there to be at least more hand prints and disturbed dirt inside, so I honestly can't tell. The clutch rotor also has holes instead of the metal tabs sticking out like newer clutch assemblies, and the transmission isn't just a coat of rust like I'd thought. The whole machine honestly seems in better shape than the ones in all the repair videos that seem to be rusting apart and filthy.

My main issue is the inner basket. It's just dingy and discolored and many of the holes have tiny cracks and rust around them, so I'd like to just replace with a new basket pretty quickly. I know there are some that would warn that the new baskets aren't as good and have thinner layers of porcelain, but I've always babied my machines and am very careful about checking pockets and turning zippers and buttons inside out, so I'm not as concerned. I'd rather have a pearly white basket than to have dots of rust on my whites.

If anyone has any advice, can identify what work might have been done already, or any warnings about what NOT to do in restoring this, I'd be very grateful. I've worked on Direct Drives quite a few times, but never one I owned or cared about like this, and it's always been couplers or agitator assemblies, so while I'm pretty familiar with the platform, I also don't want to risk destroying anything irreplaceable with its age.

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Very nice find indeed! Not bad at all.

That machine is in decent condition for it's age. Not too much rust to speak of, besides what you already pointed out of course. The bleach dispenser is rare to see that without any rust around the edges. That would indicate it was likely never used in it's life.

The serial# having an A in the second digit would indicate 1991 being the year of manufacture. Which tells me clearly if that's the case, 1990 would have been the last year they made the drain pumps marked with an "O" before they switched to an "X" marking.

Best of luck with that machine, looks like it'll serve you well for years to come!
 
 
Congrats!  It'll refurb nicely.   :-)

W at eighth position in the model number indicates 1990 model-year.

A at second position in the serial indicates 1991 manufacture year.

I have a KAWE760WAL2, purchased new for my first house.

KAWE560W has a 2-speed motor ... which with the larger agitator it runs low speed for agitation on all cycles.  Knits/Delicates wash is 1 minute agitation, 2 minutes soak, 1 minute agitation.
 
Congrats! Kitchenaid was whirlpool’s cream of the crop from 1986-2006. All of them no matter their rank in the line had better paint jobs and all had porcelain tops. This machine is clean. I’m sure the person that owned this machine probably bought it new and upon passing away the younger generation wanted nothing to do with this old relic so to speak. I would do the basics you described and as long as you use good washing practices you won’t need to go any further at the moment. Enjoy it as it’s a nice heavy built dependable machine even at its age.
 
1990 KitchenAid washer

Yay Andrew I’m glad you got this machine that you’ve always wanted. These were good machines that’s for sure. In addition to all KitchenAid having a porcelain top and lid. They also galvanize the cabinet so it did not rust easily. They took that from Maytag.

When whirlpool introduced these, they wanted to go ahead to head with Maytag and they came up with a little bit better washer not only did it perform better, but it was more reliable.

It’s not unusual to see a machine in this condition. It obviously only had moderate use. I don’t think it’s been rebuilt before. Don’t see any sign of that from your pictures, the one minor thing that I always do when I’m servicing a direct drive washer is when you remove the motor turn the rubber motor mount 180° , because a flat spot on the bottom.

You can still get a brand new white porcelain wash basket, but it will have the spiral hole pattern with less total number of holes, whirlpool, and some KitchenAid models had a lifetime warranty on the wash baskets so if you can find Rust spots on it, you can get a new one for free, I had a customer with a resource saver a few weeks ago, where the basket rusted in the column area and broke and I got him a new wash basket for free, Kenmore models only had a 10 year warranty on the wash baskets.

John
 
Thanks you guys! It's definitely something I'm looking forward to restoring. Luckily we have a fantastic appliance parts store that seems to have A LOT in stock. I already brought home the agitator cam assembly, a new spanner nut, a new water valve, and the wrench, but they do have a basket in stock and the transmission and brake-spin tube assembly as well. I'm just trying to feel out what is a necessity first before spending that kind of money. I'd really like to find a good four-knobber (or five including the timer) Kenmore or Whirlpool that I could harvest parts from, and eventually if/when the timer on this dies, I can transplant the control panel and have a proper speed control knob to keep it at Slow/Fast.

As of now, I've removed the basket and cleaned the outer tub and shaft. The basket removal was a bit of a struggle, because the block was stuck to the basket cylinder tight. I couldn't budge it at all. Between last night and today I lost count of how many times I sprayed Bolt-Off, knocked with a rubber mallet, rocked around, waited, and repeat, but I finally got the basket to break free and lift out. Of course the drive block stuck with it and I had to knock it through, but I'm going to replace it regardless. Both it and the nut are pretty heavily corroded. I'm just thankful this wasn't near the struggle that the Bravos XL rebuild and bearing/shaft replacement was last year.

The underside of the basket and the shafts are a bit discouraging. I need to clean the basket and see how much is gunk vs. rust but since I want to replace it regardless, I don't want to spend too much time on that. The filter plate was covered in gunk, but I was able to get it out without breaking it. I know many will say to trash it, but I would like this machine to at least retain some kind of lint filtering, and because of my laundry use habits I don't see how it could ever get gunked up and nasty like this.

My biggest concern is the main support tube, because rust is starting at the top. The seals don't look great either. The lower tub seal looks fine, but the spin tube and agitator shaft seals either look jagged or aren't even sitting flush against the shaft. While cleaning, I set it to spin to drain all the nasty water out, and the spin tube seal spurted out black grease. The machine didn't seem to leak at all that I could tell before disassembly, and dislodging the basket probably disturbed the seals, but I couldn't possibly just let it be with that amount of gunk underneath. Even just running the test cycles, bits of grime were always floating in the water and especially coming out into the buckets when draining. I'm also not convinced that water might already be down the shafts and it's just not enough to sling or make a puddle on the ground just yet.

I guess where I'm kinda stuck now is knowing how severe it is, and how to handle it. It's a shame that the support tube otherwise looks pretty good, except for that cancerous glob of rust in that one spot, as well as the paint that flaked off. Can the tub support be sanded and resprayed with something like a marine-grade paint that will at least let it last a good while longer? Or should I just find another right away from ebay or a donor machine?

I have no problem with this being a thorough project, doing a seal and bearing job, repainting, etc. I would be fine just dismantling it down to the frame so I can go about sanding any rust and repainting with a Rustoleum enamel, so if it would just be better long term to replace the transmission and spin tube at the same time as the tub support and seal, that would give me the best peace of mind as well. I'm not expecting this to be a heavy daily driver for 15-20 more years, but I would like at least a few good years to enjoy incorporating it into the laundry room, and otherwise I want this to be my "classic car" that I can show to who might care to see it in action. I also just don't want it to leak and ruin the wood floors in the laundry room either lol.

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Beware of the new Whirlpool transmissions if you buy one for this machine. I saw you mentioned that in one of the replies above which is why I thought I'd say something. They can be quite loud, and mine was leaking oil within a year. It's probably a better idea to either rebuild the transmission you have if/when needed, or seek out a rebuilt transmission on eBay or the like. Corecentric Solutions offers them sometimes as well.
 
Update!

My new tub support finally came in, and I have pretty much every thing I can think of to start officially rebuilding. We have a Fox Appliance here in town that has been fantastic for parts availability aside from the biggies, like transmission and tub support, so I wanted to support them as much as possible without turning to online sites.

Here's where I'm stumped now: the main support tube is nice and clean with a nice coating of paint, which was the primary need considering my existing support has a big glob of rust and I just don't have the means or utility to try and refinish it in a way that won't cause issues. The new one came with a new spin shaft and brake, as well as the seals, and the spin shaft seal is what I'm concerned about. I took some close up pictures where you'll see that the lip doesn't fully seat around the shaft, despite being clean with no cracks or tears. The thing is, every time I see a video of someone doing a teardown-rebuild of these, their seals look atrocious, and their tub supports will be flat out flaking and rusting too! But they proceed to slap everything back together and seem fine.

Will mine rehydrate and conform once they're installed and the machine is running? Or am I looking at just going ahead and replacing both shaft seals as well? Do these just need to be repacked with grease because it has sat for who knows how long on a shelf?

That leads to my final question, what kind of grease should be used for the seals on these? I've replaced many a component on DDs over the years but never a seal or bearing, so this is foreign ground for me. The most recent rebuild work I've done was a bearing and seal job on the Bravos XL I have stored however, which required packing the main seal with grease before it mates with the driveshaft. I have no idea what kind of grease it was though, and I can't seem to find a clear answer here or on any rebuild videos, other than it being the tube that comes with the bearing kit. Is there a general marine grade grease that can be used so long as it's water resistant and a similar thickness?

I am a bit confused about how exactly the sealing function of these machines work, because despite the condition of the two existing upper seals on the machine, it didn't leak a drop and there's no sign of any water contacting around the clutch or top of the transmission. The main tub seal seems fine despite the layer of crud it was under, though I do have a brand new one ready to go in anyway. I'm just concerned about jamming the transmission up through the new support assembly and calling it a day without making sure I'm properly greasing and seating everything the right way the first time, so if I'm over thinking this or making no sense, I'll happily take any advice or guidance.

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Rebuilding and reassembling a direct drive washer

Hi Andrew, looks good so far except your photo number two that top spin seal needs to be replaced. It should conform tightly to the circumference of the spin tube and the agitator shaft, etc. it will not reform itself when it looks like this and you’ll eventually get moisture in Between the top seals which can lead to rust which will eventually impact the next seal down, etc.

As far as lubrication use a very good quality grease like you use for automotive wheel bearings, also use a good quality light machine oil, such as the typical zoom spout oil that is so handy.

With the machine laying on its side or the support mechanism I fill the area at the top of the seals with grease and the bottom recesses with the light oil and then slide the spin tube in that way you have a combination of lubricants for the bottom bearing in in the center post a finger full of grease above the bearing and a little bit of light oil again same for the agitator shaft the biggest trick is keeping moisture out of these areas for a long lasting job.

If everything is in great shape, when you reassemble one of these machines, it should give a long life comparable to what it did when it came from the factory.

John
 

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