Need advice for my poor Whirlpool washer

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nathaniel

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2019
Messages
11
Location
Massachusetts, USA
As some of you may know, I have a 1984 Design 2000 that has been giving my some problems, and today is no exception unfortunately. I’m in search of another timer for it as the one I was able to obtain from someone on here blew up as well, and it now has the same issue as the timer that was originally installed. I’m starting to think that I should replace the motor and capacitor to avoid them overloading the timer considering that not only are they original, but they are also strained and occasionally stall out if the clutch sticks. That said, I’m still not 100% sure about it. I cleaned it up, and rebuilt the drive train on it so I’d hate to give up on the old girl. The images below show the machine itself, the rebuilt transmission/clutch, and the timer I need. (The listing is from the replacement I purchased previously)

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You may have to add a relay to take some of the strain off of the motor contact inside the timer.

What’s interesting, is I don’t think the belt drives had issues with the motor overloading the timer since it just sent power to a solid to engage or disengage it rather than having to send lots of juice through the motor contact. The contacts on my Whirlpool still look to be a great shape after all these years (still am trying to source a replacement along with trying to print a new cam assembly for it), same thing with the one on my Kenmore portable washer.
 
Early direct, drive whirlpool washer

Hi Nathaniel, we have an even earlier one that was made in late 81. Can you post a picture of the part number of the timer you need? Also a picture of the model and serial number of your washer.

We rebuilt our machine back in the early 2000s And it ate a timer about two years ago and I was able to find one on eBay. It’s a hard timer to find but I think the one we have might even be different than yours.

There may be several other ways to save the machine if the mechanical parts are good, you could put a cabinet and complete control paddle and harness on a little bit newer 24 inch washer.

I doubt that the motor or the capacitor is causing the timer failures. Do you be sure that the clutch is able to slip? You should be able to turn it by hand the inner band that is, it should have a good deal of resistance, but if it’s so tight, you can’t turn it, he easily that might be putting a heavy load on it when it tries to start in the spin cycle.

John
 
Model is La7400XMW0; Serial is C34413693. Attached is a picture of the control panel to show you the timer's layout. Attached to the original post is a screenshot of a previous eBay listing containing the timer's part number. I am not sure about the clutch but I will Definity check that before reassembly to be sure it will operate properly. The reason I am suspicious of the motor/capacitor is simply because the motor has been worn a considerable amount and doesn't sound all too happy. The link attached will take you to a video of it beginning it's main wash. from there you can click around to other parts of the cycle if you're interested in taking a listen. what sounds notably bad to me is the shift from high to low spin, which takes place in every spin cycle except for the final spin on regular/heavy, and the final spin on prewash/soak.

Nathaniel



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The linked video is running Perm Press per the partial-drain cool down.  Interesting, the shift to low spin speed at 19:28 and 32:13, before all the water is drained.  Presumably that occurs at water level pressure reset?

Granny had an LA7400XMW2.  It ran high-speed spin/drain for a full two minutes, until all the water was drained, on all cycles including Knits/Gentle and Perm Press before shifting to low speed.  It also ran high speed for both spins, interim and final, on Regular/Heavy.  And it didn't do those pauses during agitation (at 9:59, 10:36, 29:33, 30:10 in the video).

The 0 and 1 engineering revisions have a different timer P/N than the 2 and 3 revisions so that accounts for the programming differences.
 
Reply #5

Early Whirlpool direct drives didn’t have a neutral drain, only a spin drain. The neutral drain was added a few years later I believe.
 

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