The all push button May tag models in the early sixties and even maybe late fifties did have a wash and where cycle. It was the only model that feature.
Permanent Press Cycles are Overrated
- Thread starter Chetlaham
- Start date
Help Support :
Could someone tell me
How does the wash and wear cycle work?
How does the wash and wear cycle work?
stephen
Well-known member
Miele WXI860
Must be! Even Miele removed their PP Cycle (Wrinle-Free) from their dial on their updated WXI860.
https://www.mieleusa.com/e/w1-front...s-tdos-and-intensewash-lotus-white-11614140-p
Must be! Even Miele removed their PP Cycle (Wrinle-Free) from their dial on their updated WXI860.
https://www.mieleusa.com/e/w1-front...s-tdos-and-intensewash-lotus-white-11614140-p
Wash and wear and permanent press cycle’s on washers
Could make a very big difference and often gave excellent results.
The first nice washer our family had was a 1959 lady Kenmore that my brothers and I rebuilt in 1966.
I use the wash and wear cycle all the time on that for washing shirts and my mothers dresses.
I remember my aunt was over one time came down to the basement and she was absolutely amazed that I have ironed all these shirts from my brothers and father and dresses and I said they had not been ironed they’ve been washed in the Lady Kenmore and they have been dried in the dryer and they looked absolutely perfect hanging on the hangers.
The lady Kenmore used about 20 gallons of cold water to cool the fabrics off before a nice quick low speed spin.
The later whirlpool built top load washers where they agitated to mix the water off were an improvement and used less cold water.
These cycles were necessary because it’s necessary to wash any outer clothing in fairly hot water to get it clean, detergents have improved somewhat and you can get away with lower wash temperatures today and this reduces the need for the wash and wear cycles although it’s still smart not to spin things so fast until they cooled by a nice cold rinse.
Clothing should always be rinsed in as cold water as it’s available in any automatic washer, the cold water removes detergent better leaves of clothing less wrinkled reduces bacteria count in the clothing and in the machine to reduce the possibility of mold growth etc.
Every detergent maker in every washing machine maker recommends cold water rinsing for all loads.
John L
K
Could make a very big difference and often gave excellent results.
The first nice washer our family had was a 1959 lady Kenmore that my brothers and I rebuilt in 1966.
I use the wash and wear cycle all the time on that for washing shirts and my mothers dresses.
I remember my aunt was over one time came down to the basement and she was absolutely amazed that I have ironed all these shirts from my brothers and father and dresses and I said they had not been ironed they’ve been washed in the Lady Kenmore and they have been dried in the dryer and they looked absolutely perfect hanging on the hangers.
The lady Kenmore used about 20 gallons of cold water to cool the fabrics off before a nice quick low speed spin.
The later whirlpool built top load washers where they agitated to mix the water off were an improvement and used less cold water.
These cycles were necessary because it’s necessary to wash any outer clothing in fairly hot water to get it clean, detergents have improved somewhat and you can get away with lower wash temperatures today and this reduces the need for the wash and wear cycles although it’s still smart not to spin things so fast until they cooled by a nice cold rinse.
Clothing should always be rinsed in as cold water as it’s available in any automatic washer, the cold water removes detergent better leaves of clothing less wrinkled reduces bacteria count in the clothing and in the machine to reduce the possibility of mold growth etc.
Every detergent maker in every washing machine maker recommends cold water rinsing for all loads.
John L
K
Yeah, and it's been replaced by Proofing, which, of course, is the most-used cycle after Normal. 
stephen
Well-known member
proofing
Exactly! Lol
I would love to know what their reasoning was. Why hide Wrinkle-Free/Minimum Iron?
And why replace it with Proofing, of all cycles.
Exactly! Lol
I would love to know what their reasoning was. Why hide Wrinkle-Free/Minimum Iron?
And why replace it with Proofing, of all cycles.
mickeyd
Well-known member
LOL, Indeed!
What next--a baking cycle after proofing the bread dough?
What next--a baking cycle after proofing the bread dough?
Could someone explain to me
What the HELL does proofing mean, does it mean the clothes rise?
What the HELL does proofing mean, does it mean the clothes rise?
stephen
Well-known member
From manual
Proofing
sounds like a waste of water to me. Why couldn’t the “proofing” solution be added like a fabric softener during the final rinse?
Eddie
sounds like a waste of water to me. Why couldn’t the “proofing” solution be added like a fabric softener during the final rinse?
Eddie
So why can't dress sirts be used for wrinkle free/perm press?
stephen
Well-known member
It can. It’s just different. And it has a third rinse. WF has twice rinses.
stephen
Well-known member
Dress Shirt Cycle
Actually Dress Shorts has a Sensitive Wash Rhythm, a slower spin speed, and an extra rinse over the WF cycle.
Actually Dress Shorts has a Sensitive Wash Rhythm, a slower spin speed, and an extra rinse over the WF cycle.
#21 Who has clothes today that are prone to wrinkling?
Me! I do!
And it’s annoying for someone like me who hates to iron.
It’s taken me a long time to figure out settings to reduce wrinkles.
And you’ll never guess where the issues are.
On my cottons!
My cotton work shirts and polos has serious wrinkling issues where the bottom hems, sleeve edges, and collars take on weird, HARD creases.
Past washers with cool downs would help. They also aided in rinsing dark colors better.
But the real secret I’ve found, even better than the PP or steam cycles on my dryers, is to Damp Dry these items.
I then reform the collars and sleeves, and let them hang dry.
With damp dry and the residual heat, they’re usually all dry several hours later.
Me! I do!
And it’s annoying for someone like me who hates to iron.
It’s taken me a long time to figure out settings to reduce wrinkles.
And you’ll never guess where the issues are.
On my cottons!
My cotton work shirts and polos has serious wrinkling issues where the bottom hems, sleeve edges, and collars take on weird, HARD creases.
Past washers with cool downs would help. They also aided in rinsing dark colors better.
But the real secret I’ve found, even better than the PP or steam cycles on my dryers, is to Damp Dry these items.
I then reform the collars and sleeves, and let them hang dry.
With damp dry and the residual heat, they’re usually all dry several hours later.
A Vice Cycle, Kept by Habit!
They've been on washers for decades, a vital setting along with Regular Fabrics to this day--even Delicates, associated with Slow Speeds are only seen on TWO-SPEED machines, with that PP, on your basic one-speed, and Perm. Press, II never ever even use...
-- Dave
They've been on washers for decades, a vital setting along with Regular Fabrics to this day--even Delicates, associated with Slow Speeds are only seen on TWO-SPEED machines, with that PP, on your basic one-speed, and Perm. Press, II never ever even use...
-- Dave
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