POR-15 after 8 years

[DADoES]

 
I refurbed a 1999 Kenmore in 2010.  Treated the centerpost (also the base and cabinet) with POR-15.

I used the machine a few times, passed it to my mother in 2012.  A leak issue developed with it a few weeks ago so I had opportunity a couple days ago to disassembled it.

The POR did not hold-up on the centerpost.

 

[neptunebob]

What happens now? Can the center post be replaced? Is that the same as the "spin tube"?

 

[DADoES]

 
The centerpost is part of the tub support, a three-armed affair which sits atop the base pedestal.  The outer tub attaches to it.  The centerpost contains the spin bearings, the basket drive (spin tube & brake) fits up into it.  The transmission attaches to the bottom of the support, the agitator shaft goes up inside the spin tube.

Proper way to fix it is replace the tub support, and maybe the basket drive, and hopefully not the transmission.  I hate to trash the machine, it's otherwise in good condition.  I need to sell it, too many machines hanging around here.

 

[kenwashesmonday]

POR-15 does a pretty good job of slowing rust, but the only way to actually stop rust, is to remove it.

 

[good-shepherd]

In my experience POR-15 is overrated and over priced, not much better than a good epoxy paint.

Get some on you skin however and its gonna be there a while.

 

[DADoES]

 
Yeahbut, this product is approached and touted here as the be-all and end-all of stopping and preventing rust.

Example:

 

[potatochips]

To hold up for eight years of washing I think thats not too bad. I wonder if painting over top the POR15 with a quality paint would help? 

 

Thanks for posting some POR15 tests results though Glenn. 

 

[jetcone]

I found

Permatex Extend which may be under the 3M label now, works better than POR 15.

I had a real spottty 1-18 outer tub with 50Cent sized rust areas. Because I could get it right onto the rust , it bonded and worked for 10 years till I parted the machine out.

 

[henene4]

Wondering if that stuff was designed for use in chemicly agressive conditions?

How is it used?

If it is like a 2-part-resin that chemicly solidifys into a duroplastic polymer that should not have happened even under chemicly agressive conditions.

If it's more like a solvent based paint supposed to keep rust on fences and such in check it probably wasn't up to the task and was slowly but steadily weakend.

I don't think that is salvagable anymore sadly. To much stuff erroded away.

But if you ever have to do something like that again you might want to consider something else and report on your results as well, even if it takes years for them to come.

Immediatley fibreglass and the polymer stuff for that comes to mind, especially the stuff designed for boats.
But anything resistent to verry basic conditions should do.

 

[launderess]

POR-15

Is a *paint* that supposedly stops rust "permanently".

https://www.por15.com/POR-15_Rust_Preventive_Coating

Some people swear by it, others at it. *LOL*

The stuff came to the attention of automobile hobbyist and others when restoring clapped/rusted out undercarriages, metal parts and such.

https://car-mods.wonderhowto.com/how-to/apply-por-15-for-rust-0151036/

https://onemanandhismustang.com/por15-rust-kit/

As with many things a legend and or cult has grown up around POR-15. Some swear once done their projects have lasted years or decades without rust returning. Others find like DADOES that like a cancer the rust continued to grow and develop beneath POR-15 and subsequently won out.

 

[lorainfurniture]

I’ve always had good experiences with por. The trick is to encapsulate all of the rust. Leave one spot and it’s basically no help.

Preparation is absolute key. The flaked paint is imperfect prep. The rust looks like it came from inside the spin tube area and worked its way out.

Under perfect conditions the paint will last forever. It’s almost impossible to get it perfect short of sand blasting.

 

[DADoES]

 
Treating a new tub support thusly won't do anything useful, is a waste of product?

 

[lorainfurniture]

I would think it would only be of little benefit. Of all the dd washers that I have worked on over the years (thousands and thousands), I’ve onle come across a handful that needed tub supports.

 

[DADoES]

 
Interesting.  Maybe difference in environmental factors.  I haven't handled that volume of machines but of three I've disassembled in recent years, two (the 1999 Kenmore 90 and a WP Catalyst both with black-colored base) had rust on the centerpost and one didn't (1994 KA with putty-colored base).  The KM and Catalyst weren't fatal initially so I treated both with POR-15 and it didn't hold up on either of them.  The KM responded as in the pics above.  I don't have pics of the Catalyst on exam 6 years later but it was also bad enough to replace the support.  Parents' neighbors called me couple weeks ago to check a leak on their 1996/98 WP, which was a large flow coming from under the tub at the rear.  They decided to buy new so I didn't disassemble it for exam.  I'm going over there this afternoon and may investigate just for the record if they're amenable.

 

[DADoES]

 
Forgot a machine.  2003 WP, also replaced the tub support.