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Wonderful!

Thanks, Cadman.

I have had to put the repairs on the Touchmatic on hold the last two weeks, need to get the door switches in alignment and haven't had the time to figure it out...in my case that could involve a lot of time.
 
I'm still trying to get myself a cookmatic... I regret having to get rid of my RR-7... I had to reduce stock and in choosing my battles, had to get rid of the heavy microwave... I regretted it almost instantly. Only the wonders of a 70s Amana will ease my pain.
 
Nice!

I think my microwave is on it's last legs. It took almost 15 minutes to heat up a cold bowl of spaghetti the other day. I'm keeping my eyes open for a Radarange as a replacement. I have my thrift store buddies looking too.
 
Amazing!

What an amazing collection you have there Cory!
Where in the world do you find them all?
I just love the Amana Convection Radar Range! It looks just like the one Gansky found awhile back.
Keep up the good work!
Does Amana have and interest in your collection?
Brent
 
Hey, nice page...got me interested in getting into my RR and fix my flickering screen issues. Which capacitors generally fail causing the flickering screen on a RR9T? Is it the eletrolytics on the power supply board, or the little mica caps on the microcontroller board? I also have problems with my "3" button...it tends to like to repeat when touched only once
 
Steven,

Flickering screens are endemic to these otherwise perfect machines. They are almost never caused by the mica caps - they are chosen for their stability. Many from the early part of the 20th century are still in use, within tolerance.

The electrolytic are always prime culprits, as are the connections to the display panel itself. Be sure you discharge them correctly, not only for you but because a jolt in the wrong place could fry electronics.
 
I just picked up my second RR the other day. I have a mod# RR-7D. mint. paid 5 bucks. one door switch broke, I bypassed it and am buttoning it up. Daily user for almost a year. Just picked up a very nice RR-700. Matt
 
How did I miss this post? A big YAY for updates Cory! While I haven't seen the efforts of your recent clean-up, I bet it looks great.

The RMC-30 is the one that Greg recently found in Omaha. AWESOME machine!

Ben
 
Yeah, that update was overdue. I think I added 8 more machines to that page and took inventory of the Radarware accumulating downstairs.

You guys are right, it's getting tougher to find these machines. When one does pop up, you better hope it's local!

One of the biggest challenges has been figuring out just what models were made. For example, Paul's RRL-7C. No idea unless Ben or I spot one or find a reference in the old Amana lit. And once in a while a machine will get updated with a replacement panel which really adds to the confusion.

Flickering display? Erratic operation? 9 out 10 it's the electrolytic filter caps like Panthera mentions.

Keep 'em cooking guys!
Cory
 
Does Anyone Know...

...What might have happened to my RRL-9TC? I was using it and it was working normally, when all of a sudden it began making a roaring sound, and then went dark. Tripped the circuit breaker, too. I've put it aside until I can find out whether this is something within my skill set to repair, or if it's terminal.

Any info would be appreciated.
 
Cadman:
Great work!! How does one go about repairing a broken chime clapper? It seems the brass wire gave out due to the weight of the clapper. It is the two dial model, RR-8?
Bobby in Boston
 
My mechanic has a RR3A sitting in the break room of his shop. I've asked him about it a few times, but he's not interested in getting rid of it...apparently he knows how good the things are too!

I set out looking for all my capacitors today. Radio Shack doesn't have any capacitors over 50 WVDC, so I'm gonna hafta hit the digi-key or MCM electronics catalog for the necessary parts...any other parts I should order for mine from the catalogs while I got it apart?
 
so I'm gonna hafta hit the digi-key or MCM electronics

When I was searching for the best quality/selection/prices, I found Mouser electronics had the edge on electronic parts, especially electrolytic capacitors.

http://www.mouser.com/
 
I'm getting a mess of assorted electrical parts, boxes full of stuff. Maybe some of you can help be sort out what might be useful? I not much of an electronics guy, though I love to learn. Matt
 
I was able to find all the caps I needed at my electronics shop without having to order any! The 1000uF was only reading 30 uF with my meter...definitely the culprit behind my flickering screen. The 10uF was reading 7uF, and the 220 was reading 186uF.

Now, I've got another problem, When I was in the microwave, I noticed that the little "beeper" had come disassembled somehow (probably when the oven was chucked out on the curb for the trashman) When I put everything back together, now the little beeper beeps continuously! Any of you all ever had that issue?
 
A thousand thanks to Ben and Cory

Who sent me the manual I needed to get the Touchmatic door interlocks sync'd.

Major, serious, enormous thanks!
 
She works!

Again my thanks to all, especially Ben and Cory.

Got the right interlock assembly out of her this morning. Checked the switch contacts, they were all ok, but the right interlock was dragging, sometimes needing nearly a second to snap back.

Soaked it in WD-40 (which is a great solvent, not a lube) and, le Poof! She works!

Without the guide to resetting the interlocks, could have never done it.

I was amused, after reading 37 pages on how to check and set them to find one last paragraph which says: Of course, you can skip the tests and just listen. The left interlock must click slightly before the right one does. If anything else happens, they are out of sync.

Sheesh...like...couldn't that have been at the beginning? But never mind, I learned why people love these ovens. Bloody brilliant.

Now I want a more powerful one. There is one for $15 at ARC in Fort Collins, but not temperature probe and the glass dish is not the original, shoved in sideways.

Still, it has 1250 W cooking power, so might get it.

This baby I just was able to fix doesn't even make a sound when she goes from wait to power on the cookmatic scale. Solid, seriously solid.

So, the offer still stands - we don't really need her, if anyone does, just ask and we'd be happy to send her to a good home. At her weight, you'd better either have serious money for shipping or be passing through Cheyenne, tho'.
 
Even cooking, but

I had forgotten how annoyingly loud that end of program signal is. And how cheap and 1970's it sounds.

I think Amana did a great job on these units, but the next time I have an hour free or so, that icky thing is being replaced with a more gentle chime.

Still don't get all the stupid interlock protections, 10 second lock outs, etc. I was too young back then to notice, I guess - were Americans really that afraid of microwaves?
 
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