Schweet Little Westinghouse Dryer
- Thread starter launderess
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If this wasn't 220v only be all over it!
But Laundress, Toggles could come over and convert it to 110 volt operation for you. I wouldn't be surprised in the original installation guide, it showed how to do just that.
But Laundress, Toggles could come over and convert it to 110 volt operation for you. I wouldn't be surprised in the original installation guide, it showed how to do just that.
It's also made to run on 110. You use the low heat setting and the timer goes to over 2 hours.
launderess
Well-known member
Interesting
But unless it pulls more heating power than my "vintage" Whirlpool portable (in Harvest Gold no less), don't see it being worth the bother.
Now if that Fridigare dryer linked to in another thread ran on 110v that would be aother story. *LOL*
But unless it pulls more heating power than my "vintage" Whirlpool portable (in Harvest Gold no less), don't see it being worth the bother.
Now if that Fridigare dryer linked to in another thread ran on 110v that would be aother story. *LOL*
A 110 volt heating capacity is limited by the 15 A circuit to about the same heating capacity as your WP.
launderess
Well-known member
That's Why One Has To Find A Vintage Frigidare Dryer
From the 1950's or 1060's.
According to my copy of "Tech Talk Digest" for Frigidare automatic electric dryers of the period the 120v units ran at 1600 or later 1100 watts.
Plugged into a 20amp circut things should be fine, a bit warm and moist during the summer months, but we all have to make sacrifices. *LOL*
From the 1950's or 1060's.
According to my copy of "Tech Talk Digest" for Frigidare automatic electric dryers of the period the 120v units ran at 1600 or later 1100 watts.
Plugged into a 20amp circut things should be fine, a bit warm and moist during the summer months, but we all have to make sacrifices. *LOL*
Are you sure that's not 1600 watts for the full load and not the wattage of the heater?
launderess
Well-known member
It Says Here
"Heating Units"
"Wattage at 115 volts"
"1600"
"Heating Units"
"Wattage at 115 volts"
"1600"
@tomturbomatic:
I had the same question. If I had to guess, I'd say the motor would draw at least 250 Watts running, more on startup.
I had the same question. If I had to guess, I'd say the motor would draw at least 250 Watts running, more on startup.
@launderess:
That's right at 14 A just for the heating element. Doesn't leave much for the motor turning the drum...or the timer motor (which wouldn't use much, but cutting things that close...).
That's right at 14 A just for the heating element. Doesn't leave much for the motor turning the drum...or the timer motor (which wouldn't use much, but cutting things that close...).
launderess
Well-known member
Don't Know When The "80%" Of Rated Circut Load
Came into USA code, but have a sneaking hunch up until the 1970's or mid 1960's it wasn't a huge issue.
Have seen plenty of appliances such as vintage ironers that pulled >1500 watts for the heater which today would be sitting very near the window's edge for a 15amp circut.
Of course some ironers and other appliances got around this by using gas for heating but as they were unvented that is a huge no-no today.
Came into USA code, but have a sneaking hunch up until the 1970's or mid 1960's it wasn't a huge issue.
Have seen plenty of appliances such as vintage ironers that pulled >1500 watts for the heater which today would be sitting very near the window's edge for a 15amp circut.
Of course some ironers and other appliances got around this by using gas for heating but as they were unvented that is a huge no-no today.
@launderess:
The machine specs could be conservative. It might run just fine depending on your home.
Would depend on the current-time curve of the interrupting device and the wire size and type of your branch circuit. #12 wire used to be common for 15A circuits, now it tends to be #14. But there are still plenty of houses built in the 1970s that haven't burned down yet in spite of their aluminum or copper-clad aluminum wiring. And/or Zinsco, Wadsworth and Federal-Pacific service panels...
The machine specs could be conservative. It might run just fine depending on your home.
Would depend on the current-time curve of the interrupting device and the wire size and type of your branch circuit. #12 wire used to be common for 15A circuits, now it tends to be #14. But there are still plenty of houses built in the 1970s that haven't burned down yet in spite of their aluminum or copper-clad aluminum wiring. And/or Zinsco, Wadsworth and Federal-Pacific service panels...
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