Speed Queen to offer heater option......on 'International export' F/L models

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

Well...I am not totally sure that the gas tankless of old had such a limitation themselves because of their "old" nature, after all run them for 5 mins to fill a tub or 15 to take a long shower doesnt change anything in the functioning, but you're right on this point, since many were not vented outside, oh by the way, it's not a case that here water heaters are called "scaldabagno" (word still used today to refer to a water heater whenever tankless or not gas or electric) which translated is "bath heaters" not water heaters, this is because initially for many folks they were what made their bath hot (they were not used in kitchens as it was already much to have one in the bathroom)... anyway the gas were the most common and these units as said were often used for short time like filling a tub, then air the room etc...to go for a long shower without limitations you needed to have a venting outside or chimney and because of their nature of condo/apts it was not always possible, some who had the space opted for electric tanks, but many didn't have the space and used the gas tankless carefully and for short time and whenever gas line didn't reach the room there were always the dear cylinders, lack of a venting reuqired attention and it was not to die of carbon monoxide poisoning...which was so common back then when these units including gas stoves (not cooking stoves but to heat the air) were used...
Sidearm:
The way modern apartments like mine got and still get their hot water is not really that different, in this condo (a series of 5 identical 9 floors buildings) we have a common insta boiler with a supprt heated tank, the main heater ran with oil till recently, now modified to gas.. the tank has a pump to ensure water recirculation inside the "sending" piping to avoid that water in low demand hours and cold months (overnight) to get cool inside the long pipeline that there's from the boiler/furnace located in building 3, I am in the 4 and so it will recirculate again and again back again in the heated support tank... as said now the whole thing was changed to run with gas, as is the furnace who runs radiators (same unit with burner modified) gas is sure cheaper than oil and so are doing almost everybody, our system things has the same sidearm setting, 1 for each side of every building, 2 for building...so 10 pipes giving water to 5 units all coming back to the same tank under pressure.
Our condo like many in Italy was made in around mid 70s which was the era of the condos boom and when most of apartments complexes (born as complexes) were made...

During the time they started realizing that maybe common water heater was not the way to go, too many problems, leaks etc, people on high floors not receiving it hot enough, different requirements of hotness by different people with different habits, and not for last, too much heat dispersion in pipes, so about late 70s more like 80s actually you started having new condos furnished with individual tankless for hot water.... (one for every apt)
The same was starting to happen also in some "historical-older-downtown" buildings.. space was and is precious and tankless was the way to go vs a tank, but will tell more later...
You find many condos of the 70s like mine using common heaters and with this sidearm system and to change to our own heater has really a crazy cost...
Anyway...retruning talking about the old heater thing:

The thing of an heater for every room applied for older buildings as said, like ones made in 10s 20s 30s 40s and 50s.........or even much before...
Some of these (when the inhabitants had the money) went through a renovation/retrefitting and have had hot piping made around the 70s, but before, they still and mostly had the tankless in every room to go with...
Many single homes the same, we have had a large amount of Liberty homes "villette" in this town (even more back then) and if you visit one empty since the 60s you can still spot heaters in every bathroom, just ones who went through a deep renovation in the 70s do have hot water lines..
Also, the heater in every room/ point of need applied to the many buildings who weren't born as apartments, like schools institutions like convents, libraries etc....and so where it was not really possible to make an hot piping out of the blue...not for cheap for sure...
It must be said that often missed the money to went through a deep renovation/retrofitting and install this piping was unlikely because of the target of people these older buildings were destinated" to initially ...now, well now of course it's not like before and many of these older buildings, let alone single homes, went through renovations and got hot water lines installed, but in the 60s and 70s many, perhaps the majority still had to "upgrade" in this sense...
Most of people who lived in the typical "centro storico" -"old downtowns" were modest families....many of these people were former farmers etc that became "working class" employed in factories during the economical boom, these people by working managed to put away enough savings in about decade to manage to leave these older apts and move in the newborn/modern "MOL"-"BOL" complexes of the 70s that were starting popping out like mushrooms, though complexes of this kind (simple complexes) became associated with "working class" (For example the complex i live in is named "arte orafa"- "goldsmith art" since they were meant to become home for all of the employees of jewels factories/laboratories, which is the economic field this towm is centered in, you should have heard about jewels of Valenza) and it's in the 70s infact that the older buildings in the "centri storici" became food for realtors who invested money to restore them and transform these old/ancient and beautiful buildings in luxurious apartments for wealthy folks, the restoration included putting hot pipes and tankless heaters for every apt...
Infact in many cities and towns what were mid class or poor neighborhoods in the past, so the downtown areas, became soon areas for rich folks, the ancient buildings you see now in many centri storici of many towns, maybe also with nice shops here and ther, were transformed to become luxurious buildings and places for wealthy folks, thinking in many cases they were just the opposite in the 50s and 60s sounds almost impossible....
In apartments made from mid 80s and 90s, you won't find any common heater anymore, but tankless placed in balconies and especially in the ones made in the 90s you'll just find tankless all in one furnace+heater...all placed on the balconies....

A typical balcony tankless setting:
[this post was last edited: 12/23/2014-20:21]

kenmoreguy89-2014122316550902126_1.jpg
 
Yesterday I used the DW to clean china used for the holiday. I had a variety of cheeses, crackers, jams, and mustards for lunch and dinner, then let everything sit on the counter overnight.   I used the china/crystal cycle which uses a water temp between 98F and 118F.  Everything was seriously clean. I measured the incoming water temp for the wash, it was 92F.  The last rinse incoming water was 98F. So this is the water temp coming into my DW when the outside temperature is in the 50's.  If I cleared out the gallons of cold water sitting in the pipes the incoming water would be about 137F...but I am spending more money wasting water than I am using by letting the machine heat it's own water.

 

I normally use DW cycles with wash temps between 130F to 170F and all last rinses are about 150F,  so I am totally  in favor of an appliance that can heat it's own water.
 
Then I wonder how much the water costs where you live!!!
Either electricty costs nothing or water has crazy expenses..
Over here for 1 cubic meter, which is 1000Liters cost varies from 1 euros to 1,36 the most expenive.
If I had my own gas heater right now (as by using condo water) as you said you do I'd save alot vs letting the machine heat herself, and i really wouldn't care of cost of water cleared as it'd be nothing....even supposing I have to clear 10 liters which is very much, it'd be 1/100 of 1,36 which is the cost for 1000liters, so you'd clear 0.0136 euros of mere water cost...who cares???
Maybe it could matter something for the gas used to bring to temperature those 10 liters vs how much machine use to heat itself the needed for the load, but not what water cost.....but again, it will depend on how much electricty cost vs the gas and how well the heater works, and the pipes lenght to the point of use so the distance, the diameter...how well your house is insulated etc....many factors....sometimes because of it is also advisable to have more heaters dislocated around the house and more near points of use.
Here with our costs it'd be so cheaper anyway in most of the cases even the extreme ones like yours.. we have electric bills composed of 50% of taxes and adjunctive costs in percentage to the mere energy cost used, gas is not like that, also cost of gas itself is also much lower to the potential power than what the mere electricity cost per kwh is.. gas is generally cheaper than electricty in US too..but due to some extreme factors, sometimes you would find yourself spending more using a gas-heated utility vs one who use electricty itself like in your case...
I can well see that with a gas dryer as well, my bi-monthly electric bill with a 3kwh max limit, dropped 3 times less from 150-170I spent when I had electric dyers, to 45-60 euros, now with the gas dryer, and my 3montly gas bill raised from 30 euros to 45 only, it's also faster and I dry more at once, the dryers i had before were small european style dryers.

I'm also all for appliances who can heat themselves, but am also realistic to say that heating their water from 0 isn't always cheaper as filling it hot may not be as well, so good thing is them coming double fill but with possibility to chose as different conditions changes home to home...claim self heating is always cheaper is nonsense as it is claiming filling them hot is...it depends...and it's right everyone has this option to choose, not just go with what is better for the most, being pelnalized.
I can see many Y fill hoses/adaptors here who can be hooked up to cold and hot taps....if you have a double fill machine who can heat, you can always chose to close the cold or hot tap whenever you feel "it's not worth the candle" and you spend less using one or the other....machine will anyway make sure water will be to the desidered point of hotness in any cases, what will cheaper so heat itself or already hot it's up to the conditions....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-diamete...se-with-hot-and-cold-water-/251486984526[this post was last edited: 12/28/2014-10:01]
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Another reason why We need a washer with an inbuilt heater

We have been dumbed down by the greenie vote... Our Govt has banned electric storage tank water heater AND All newer water heaters are temperature limited to 55 Celsius. If I want a HOT wash, the only option is to use the inbuilt heater. I have tweaked the temping valve to max hot, I can get 60C max. My plumber said we can't bypass the "kiddy" valve.

I HATE being told what I can or can't do in my own home!!!!

intuitive++12-28-2014-23-30-34.jpg
 
@intuitive

At least in the case of a Solar solution, you are not limited:

It heats when there is sunlight until the water boils!
The electric boost can be set to 65ºC at maximum.
Our Solar system was fitted in late-May last year. I was shocked when I saw Solahart "recommends" leaving the electric booster activated year-round, to comply with Govt. "Legionella-Protection" standards. In high-usage households, I cannot begin to comprehend the enormous cost of this, with 25c/kWh utility prices.

The tempering valve is only required on water lines going to the bathroom/kitchen areas. All other hot taps are permitted to be straight-hot, and unadulterated.

This is all well and good, until you consider some houses may have laundries and bathrooms sharing the same inlet pipes, or the plumbing is arranged in such a way that you can either temper the whole house or nothing...
The latter is the case for us, which is frustrating - as I like to supply the DishDrawer with lots of hot water to save time and energy, but since our hot tap in the kitchen laundry was buggered (and never going to be fixed) and because we replaced our TL with the Miele in late-2012, it is more of a pet peeve than anything else.
 
I beg to differ:Stored hot water's not that unusual here

Stored hot water is definitely not unusual in Europe, it's by far the most common way of doing it here in Ireland and also in France and it's pretty common in Britain too.

The usual setup here is like this:

The system in my house isn't too unusual, and this is how it works:

We've a 4 zone hydronic central heating system (i.e. circulated water through radiators). There's a thermostat and timer control for each zone, so you can programme them all sorts of ways. We use wireless thermostats to get better accuracy by placing them in the middle of the rooms on tables etc for each of our heating zones and then there's a control system with stats for the hot water too.

Hot water's heated in a large 500 litre very heavily insulated storage cylinder.
It has two heat exchanger coils (one for the gas boiler), one for the solar panels on the roof and also a back-up electric heating element.

There's a control system on the hot water tank that will always prioritise solar heating where possible. If the demand isn't met by solar, it calls for heat from the gas boiler.

The gas boiler is a Veissman 4-pipe condensing system - this means it has 2 flows and 2 returns. One side is used for the radiators and the other for the hot water heating coil.
When the hot water tank calls for heat, the boiler switches a diverter valve over to the hot water circuit. It then heats to a much higher temperature than it would for the radiators and continues to do so until the demand is satisfied (or 40 minutes has elapsed after which it will drop back to normal temperature and reactive the radiators and use lower temp water to heat the water).

The system's very efficient as the insulation levels on the hot water tank are up there with a thermos flask. It can hold the temperature of the water for a couple of days without much heat loss.

In France, similar systems were common and older systems were often purely electric heating, mostly using cheaper off-peak power.

On-demand systems here would generally be associated with smaller properties, retrofits to very old houses and small flats (not that many Irish people 3% or so live in apartments).

But, I think sometimes on this forum there's a lot of tendencies to make sweeping generalisations about the US and Europe. Neither place has a single standard way of heating water. I know US homes with hydronic / solar systems like mine and I know US homes with stand alone gas-water heaters and even instantaneous systems.

I know British homes with combi-gas boilers providing instantaneous water and more with various forms of tanked water and heat exchangers.

These systems vary a lot on both continents.
 
Our house is about to be refitted with a new heating system next month or March.
Right now, we have high temperature oil heating system with an old 300l stainless steal tank, insulated to about 6cm. As we have floor heating, we generally use a tad less oil than others. But basicly, we have the same setup as iej, except:
-No solar and thus no electric back up heater.
-No condensing system.
-No power modulation (I suppose by "heating with less power for the radiators" he means his gas burner reduces power output, so not only on and off like ours, but 2 or more power levels)
The burner (which failed after 27 years on the weekend after christmas and has been replaced till the new system can be installed) has an output power of 20kW.
It will be replaced with Rotex A1 20kw oil condensing system (condensing means heat recovery from the exhaust gases by cooling the gases with the cold flow-in water) and a 300l closed circut plastic tank by Rotex as well. (Closed circut means that the tank has one filling of water that remains in it and two heat exchangers, one bringing the heat in from the burner system and one takeing it out for hot water production by passing the tab water through it). Advantage for us: The tank NEVER needs to be descaled as there is one filling of water in the tank that stays the same and thus, no fresh water with fresh minerals can get into the tank and cause problems. All parts comming into contact with fresh tap water are one heat exchanger that stays scale free because of the high flow rates. At least, in theory. We hope.
 
Look...
It's a known fact that Europe  compared to the US has  generally smaller  living spaces, it's a known fact that while in the US you have a very large  slice of population living in indipendent or semi-indipendent  decently sized housing,  in Europe generally that is   more like  a privilege..so  you   have a very much larger slice of population living in apts and or smaller homes that the US.
Even Norway is europe, but as you can see things differ and substantially, so are costs of energy....
Uk as Ireland are different in this sense as well,there except from larger cities you will find much more indipendent or semi-indipendent homes than the rest of Europe, terrached houses are not that common in Italy and France and Spain as they're there, a terrached house is what folks here think an UK-IRE house would look like.... that means slightly more spaces, your own roof to put a solar system, an house with a basement to fit a tank heater... so you may find more homes heating with a tank system, but anyway less than the US did.
France, like Spain, it's more like here in matter of spaces, and while it's true  France used more storage  electric water systems it's also true  that this  was for homes that had the space to do so,  France got lots of nuclear energy that also sold greatly and largely to countries without,  so space permitting you will find more tank electric heaters in France...but anyway not largely.. and remember back then electric systems didn't allow an amperage high enouigh to support electric tankless so either you went by gas or small electric tankless scattered around...but today these electric on demand systems  can be largely found in France....
If you just go back of some years you couldn't spot so many of these tankless systems in the US than an electric or gas tank,  just a few around..ask anyone...
It's generalizing as we're doing a generic speech...generic means generalizing... ...that doesn't mean that is any less correct or true...
If you take europe on it's whole you have the differences I have exposed before...

My Uncles up in manine recently swtiched from a gas tank to a intant one because it's most the time they're away than what they're at home, so did their neighbors , but while in Europe due to reason of spaces these tankless  systems were so much popular back then already, in US they weren't much..if not at all, as Launderess pointed out they were in Bigger cities like NYC where you had conditions of spaces similar to "europe" ( again...taken on it's whole) ...but not elsewhere...
More and more people is switching to them, solar systems too...that doesn't mean it was so back then or just 15-20 years ago...

[this post was last edited: 1/5/2015-16:40]
 
Terrace houses would only really be the dominant form in Victorian areas (or older) of cities here which is definitely not the dominant form of housing.

Our housing stock's an absolute environmental disgrace by EU standards, just looking at a report.

43% of homes are detached (i.e. stand alone) and 73% of those are in rural/semi-rural settings (we like our space).
Average Irish dwelling emits 47% more CO2 than an average UK dwelling and 92% higher than the average for the EU-15 and 104% more than the EU-27!
50% of Irish homes were built after 1979 (two huge housing booms). We had absolutely no environmental regulations for homes pre 1979. So, you could install single glazing and minimal insulation and just burn more gas/oil etc to heat it.

Modern regulations are pretty tight on new build, almost approaching passive house standards.

The average Irish home is 104 m2 (1120 sq ft) (UK is 76m2)

Average US home varies enormously depending on the State, the cities and Eastern states, California etc bring the sizes way down on average (as they're representative of much more of the population than the sprawling homes of places like Utah)
Average (according to real estate sales) 1,761 sq ft.

Utah 2305 sq ft
Texas 2031 sq ft
MA - 1744 sq ft
California 1625 sqft
Washington DC : 1,000 sq ft

Also, bear in mind we design buildings to cope with expected serious winter temperatures of only -3ºC (26.6ºF) so the construction would be quite different to most of continental Europe and most of the continental US too. It's just not that cold. You really spend most of your time in Ireland designing against water ingress, dampness and condensation issues. For example, wood finishes here are a complete disaster no matter how good the treatments are they invariably rot or get broken up by lichens and moss.

Have a browse around www.daft.ie (real estate site) if you want to get a sense of what Irish housing stock's like.

Link below is for Cork City set at €200,000 which is roughly what the average is coming out for house prices there $238,690 ... I'd say add 100,000 if you want to get into decent size family home territory though as it'll be dragged down by very small places / pokey student let investment apartments etc etc

There have been various attempts to get us to 'downsize' for environmental reasons and live in denser cities, but it's not what people vote for here and they generally have a total fixation on the house in the countryside ideal with an acre of land around it. Not entirely unlike attitudes you'd tend to get in the US.

Also, if you tell someone you live in an apartment immediately means it's something 'temporary' that one does when one's moving onto a 'proper house' and getting your foot on the property ladder.
Or, you're very young, single, divorced, etc etc.

There's a *huge* hang up about apartment dwelling in the Irish psyche. Immediately seems to bring up mental images of some kind of horrific council 'flats' or some kind of cat lady type characters. Total snobbery I know, but that's what people seem to think.
Irish banks won't even lend you a mortgage for a small apartment anymore as they consider them a high risk investment with less resale options.[this post was last edited: 1/5/2015-18:06]

 
Just to give you an idea where we all stand on CO2

Brazil 1.9
Sweden 5.3
China 5.3
Switzerland 5.4
France 6.1
Eurozone 7.4
NZ 7.8
UK 7.9
Denmark 8.3
Ireland 8.9
Germany 9.1
Japan 9.2
OECD 10.1
Netherlands 11
Norway 11.7
USA 17.6
Australia 18.3

CO2 emissions metric tonnes per capita.

Bear in mind, climate (big issue in the US and Australia), industrial base (heavy vs light), economic development, available energy sources (hydro and nuclear especially) have a big bearing on this.
 
I am seing that based by areas in  this Cork City things changes,  anyway the prices are very good considering the price houses have here, I see it did  have set otuside the town in the link...but by setting in suburbs  I see things change as you move from outside to inside the town, now I want try to see inside the center..how prices changes..
I spot  detached as well a attached homes, you sure got better prices here considering prices for single homes like  that would be greater here...but that was obvious.....
But about the size  it reflects what I knew it were there....

The speech i did about terrace house was to be meant that while here when you speak of an house  to someone, in  an average town  like mine which is 20000 inhabitants not to mention a bigger one  is automatic and granted that you're speaking of an apartment, averagely on the 80 m2 range meant for a family of 3 or 4, in UK or IRE that often means a terrached house as an equivalent  of an apt here , here  typical towns are composed of 70% of condos....and the rest are anyway some sorts of multiapartments among smaller older homes  and anyway dibvided in singular apts  one next to another..So is Spain and France....
The single homes are typically outside the towns..or in little villages, and even there they're usually made to have at least 2 apts for each house...

Your own detached house that is only yours is something pretty valuable here...not many can, just if you've got plenty money, you're wealthy.. there's not the technical space for that otherwise... again, unless you're pretty wealthy...forget an house in the countryside..
But again that is line whith what I knew...no news...
All the rest like the datas about your efficience stuff is all info more which is anyway interesting but little have to do with discussion...

[this post was last edited: 1/5/2015-19:15]
 
The main reason for not fitting a water heater in US washing machines is very, very obviously down to electricity supply constraints though. Availability of hot water for filling is widespread on both sides of the Atlantic.

You can't get safely beyond 1500W or so on a 15 amp 110 - 120V circuit. Where as you get to 3000W on a UK / Ireland 13amp or even up to to 3600W on a CEE 7 continental type 16amp plug at 230V.

The reality is that most EU machines draw about 2800W to even 3000W when heating.

The other difference (and this impacts US front loaders and HE top loaders) is that the hot water may not fill long enough to flush the line from the heater/storage tank to the machine. So you'll need a heat source in the washer itself to ensure temp is reached.

Euro detergents have also been designed for temp profile washing.

Slow heat to 40C is excellent for activating enzymes and other components.

Heat to 60 or 90C to enhance the oxygen bleaches.

Where as US machines used to rely on chlorine bleach for whites and stains. Modern HE machines would definitely benefit from an internal heater.

You're basically trying to maintain very specific temps for a set time to clean your clothes with number of biochemical and chemical reactions. It's more complex than just washing with soap and bleach.

Does nobody do a washer that plugs into a dryer outlet?

At this stage you'd think they'd just fit a pair of 240V outlets for laundry and a 120V too. It's not exactly major wiring overheads when building new homes or refitting.
 
It's not so simple... and I will tell you why point by point:<a style="color: #000000; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 20px; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;" name="start_57549.802488"></a>

"The main reason for not fitting a water heater in US washing machines is very, very obviously down to electricity supply constraints though. Availability of hot water for filling is widespread on both sides of the Atlantic."
As you said.... 


<a style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-weight: normal; line-height: 20px;" name="start_57549.802488"></a>That may be true on ose side...but wrong on the other...
It may have had sense if american homes just had a 120 volt voltage, but since in many house  both by request or default you found a 240 volt possibility either for a "cooker" or an electric dryer or the water heater, I don't really see why they couldn't have come with an heater to be used in addition or from the start, just like dryers were...since the 240 volt line was in most cases anyway brought to the laundry location, but  it simply wasn't needed as most homes having already plenty hot water since the times of the winger washers that was how it was usual to go, unlike Europe (generally Europe to be clear), all the rest would have been a waste of precious time.
I'll tell you more, just look at many australian models of toploaders  who had this option to heat, in many cases and especially when your hot water was anyway delivered by an electric source (like many Us homes were and still is)  that would have coste you the same, it just wasn't time wise....and not economic wise if you had gas.
You can see that even with  many of the old Combos that while being wired to 240 volt still didn't have an heater if not one to keep it hot...

 

"The other difference (and this impacts US front loaders and HE top loaders) is that the hot water may not fill long enough to flush the line from the heater/storage tank to the machine. So you'll need a heat source in the washer itself to ensure temp is reached." 

<a style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-weight: normal; line-height: 20px;" name="start_57549.802488"></a>That maybe true if you heater is  very very far from the machine, let run water for some seconds fix this problem and you save time and in some cases money too.
In any ways having one to keep it hot is advisable...I would also care more of proper outter tub insulation.

<a style="color: #000000; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 20px; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;" name="start_57549.802488"></a>

"Euro detergents have also been designed for temp profile washing. 

Slow heat to 40C is excellent for activating enzymes and other components. 

Heat to 60 or 90C to enhance the oxygen bleaches. "


<a style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-weight: normal; line-height: 20px;" name="start_57549.802488"></a>Yes and no
While it's true that 40 is perfect for enxymes and more temp will give more off the bleaches, it's also true that detergents in the US were about the same once.....
Also since the introduction of TAED activators you don't technically need water as hot as 60celsius to get the oxy stuff work that will well start working at 30-40... and that is in both sides of the pond since long now...that's why after that they've developped stuff for colors. So now we can say that you can get bleaches and enzymes working togheter without temperatures deactivating enzymes and or water too cool to let the bleaches working...
But of course the more is the temp the more bleaches works.
The so called profile formulation of EU  is really overrated...and more like a tale...to me...I always got laundry perfect the same...
You could anyway get the perbortate working filling machine with water at 60 degrees,. toploaders did that by decades and I do that with mine, and am here to tell you my laundry comes out spotless white  and cleaner than whatever front loader's boilwash ever gave me..
But I see how a front loader may well need greater temperatures than a toploader. 
"Where as US machines used to rely on chlorine bleach for whites and stains. Modern HE machines would definitely benefit from an internal heater. "

For US machines you mean  modern front loaders or HE? That may well have been so for many models of  US front loaders both old an new..but not all and certainly not the toploaders, because I avoid like plague the chlorine and am here to tell you again my laundry is just spotless using simple detergent, I do not use  even additives of any kind.
Bleach was and is pretty much largely used here too in any ways for various purposes and for stains the same way, in US you just had the variant not all could reach water decently hot enough to their machines, cultural aspects and habits also plays an important role in this...
Really the thing is much more complex than that...

[this post was last edited: 1/5/2015-20:43]
 
Still makes absolutely no sense not to have a heater though.

Here, until the 2000s pretty much all machines had hot and cold fill then somehow were were sold the notion that cold fill only was more efficient... (For the manufacturer perhaps who saved a control mechanism and only had to make one version.

Where hot water was unavailable the machine was just connected to a Y firing feeding cold to both.

My new Miele is hot and cold fill (by special order). I wanted to use the solar water heating.

I think hot and cold fill with a heater is ideal. I don't really see why the option was dropped by most machine brands here when it was obviously considered useful for decades.

Most laundry rooms here still have hot and cold valves to connect to.
 
I know it's a nonsense, i fully agree with you!
Infact I have always said that if  I ever had to be obliged to go with a front loader for some  reasons,  it must be an european one double fill, with an heater and with a boilwash.
Otherwise I really better go to the river on the rock and boiling caldron.

I think that this is also due to these regulations in matter of cosnumption...a powerful  heater will never be understanded by these folks who makes energy laws up there...you now see how certain front loaders don't even allow a decent hot fill but will mix it....

[this post was last edited: 1/5/2015-21:15]
 
Our laundry room was done in 1957 (old part of the house), has not been redone since then and has cold feed only.
Germany practicly always relied on cold only feed. I don't know a single machine that could have a hot&cold conection avaible for households in Germany until the early 90s. But I could be wrong.
 
Same is in Italy and France and spain.
Many earlier italian automatic machines here used to come with double fill as well, but as I said since in most of cases there was no possibility to do that and it was of no use, it was soon abandoned,  so cold only became standard,  when in newer houses was made an hook up it was made putting a cold fill only.......and even today under a large request of machines having a double fill  the manufacturers still go on selling cold fill only and not offering this option in front loaders, ever... home builders the same...a double hook-up is not contemplated if not specifically asked..though many have washers in bathrooms and or near a sinks now, and it's soon to run an hot pipe,  some people,  where  no  hot  water line is possible but gas is available  will  install a gas heater just for the machine as  I said....everything will be made to save on electricity, they're skinning us alive with costs!
There used to be a seller near our town who would sell aristons meant for UK and Aussie market with double fill, because of it he sold them for the double price...they were always all booked, they were rare..

They made lots of money out of LG too, they were and are regurarly sold in normal stores...

And of course there are the american toploaders  sold by specific dealers (often heating and cooling shops  and or gas dryer dealers) given their costs were only for those who had money...but they were  sold in good quantities as well, they just are higher standards not everyone can afford...

 

[this post was last edited: 1/5/2015-22:55]
 

Latest posts

Back
Top