Time to Work on the Maytag!

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eurekastar

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 21, 2018
Messages
514
Location
Amarillo, Texas
Like just about everyone else around the world, my city is under a mandatory shelter in place order.  I can do some work related things at home but that also means I have more free time on my hands.  Therefore, it's time to trade out transmissions in my A606.  When I rebuilt this washer about 1 1/2 years ago, I installed a new orbital transmission.  I've not been real happy with it, but I luckily came across a good Pitman transmission.  I guess I'll start working on it tomorrow! 

 

I think my A606 has been feeling neglected...she always looks lonely when I go out to the garage!

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That A606 ...

...is one gorgeous looking appliance !

Yes, indeed, the right time -right now- to do things indoor
we usually, too often, don't do because we run short of time.
This actual period, all warned to stay home, might be the
good time to bring out the tool boxes, etc. and 'go for it'.
I, personally, worked recently on my portable Kenmore washer,
which was in need of cleaning, with some minor adjustments
and some good re-painting, though partial, of its cabinet.
The same applies for my new Maytag, also waiting repairs.

I wish you the best with your machine, worthy of good care.
 
@ robbinsandmyers

I have all the internal parts that need to be replaced (gasket, thrust washer, plastic gear, o-rings) but I honestly can't remember where I got them from.  I do remember they were sourced from different online dealers but it was about 1 1/2 years ago. 
 
The supply of major internal parts is essentially gone at this point, and has been for a while.

If you need something, unless you have months to search (and wait) and lots of money to throw at it, your best bet is to find an earlier -10 series machine on Craigslist that predates the transmission change, and use it as a parts donor...
 
I now have the inner tub bolted back in place!  That's always the hardest part!

 

I'm waiting for some POR 15 to arrive so that I can do some rust treatment.  It looks like my previous attempt was inadequate.  I guess I either didn't do the proper prep work or I didn't apply enough coats.  It was probably a combination of both. 

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@ LowEfficiency

I was hoping to find the nylon gear. I have the gasket and good top half of a spare trans and just have to pick up the Redline oil and I'll have all I need for a trans service. Do you have a part # for that gear?
 
It looks like the part number is "2-10315".

I personally wouldn't feel any need to replace the nylon gear though unless there is something obviously wrong with it. Even in our A308, which failed catastrophically, locking up and shearing multiple teeth off of multiple metal gears in the process, the nylon gear was completely fine and we re-used it.
 
Nylon Gear For Pitman Transmission

What is the need to replace this gear that NEVER fails, MT has used a fiber or nylon gear since 1949, I have never seen fail.

The bigger problems are the agitator shaft and outer tub rust, then timers if you actually want to keep one of these washers running.

John L.
 
Well Its Not Broken, LOL

Hi Dan, that's the thing I love about this business, as I often say you see something new almost every day, or at least every week.

 

I would differently replace ant gear with cracks in it, I wonder what could have happened to that gear to make it crack like that when hundreds of others never seem to fail.

 

John L.
 
Most of the pinion gears I've come across in this condition had an upper transmission housing shaft that was on the verge of seizing up or completely seized. Others were just breaking down from old age (usually from the early to late 1960's) and some had racked up a ton of mileage on them. This gear isn't a really common failure point but aren't completely immune, if that makes any sense. I bought loads of these (sometimes by the bagful) 10+ years ago when they were being dumped on Ebay for cheap prices so I always make a point to replace them (along with the clutch washers below the pinion gear).

Maytag used a fiberous gear from 1949-early 1960's (about 1963). They're incredibly light and have a cardboard-ish feel to them. It's amazing how well they hold up. Always replace these if you come across one. Maytag changed to nylon around 1964 and then later on to Delrin, which is the sturdiest material of the 3. They are getting rare but still available on Ebay.
 
I just figure while I'm in there it wouldn't hurt to replace it. If I dont and it fails later on its a lot of work to go through and money spent on new tub seal, trans gasket plus oil all over again for a cheap plastic gear. When the time comes I dive into this trans repair on my 1974 A407 I want to make sure it works well for many more trouble free years. It has a zillion hours on it so needs some TLC. I'm going to use the top half of that 1964 A500 trans that's in great shape per Combo52's advice. I'm going to do this in two parts. First part will be to replace the bearings on both sides of the brake package, the damper pads, then oil the brake upon reassembly. The second phase will be the removal of the tub and basket and repair the trans and install new tub bushing and seal. If I could find a good clean spin basket in CT that would be great. Mine has some rust at a few holes where they got chipped so I may POR15 them for now. This should be a fun project but I have to watch out for my lower back or at least stock up on more anti inflamatories.
 
>> I just figure while I'm in there it wouldn't hurt to replace it. If I dont and it fails later on its a lot of work to
>> go through and money spent on new tub seal, trans gasket plus oil all over again for a cheap plastic gear.

Your restoration plan looks good, but you might reconsider the logic above. What you would actually be doing is removing a proven part, and replacing it with an old-stock or reproduction *unproven* part on a hunch that it extends the service life. That "new" part may be good for a hundred years, or it may have unseen damage from improper storage or a manufacturing defect - it could even cause you to need to pull the transmission apart again, the very thing you are aiming to avoid.

It's counterintuitive, but it's the same reason why a car with 25,000 miles is generally considered to be more reliable than one with 25 miles. In engineering, it is known as the "Bathtub Curve"... and you would be taking a piece from somewhere in the middle, and resetting yourself to the far left of the curve.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathtub_curve

Of course this all changes if the gear has visible wear or damage- then it falls to the right side of the curve, and replacing it would definitely be a good idea.
 

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